As the title says; talking about oil, WITH FACTS AND PROOF ...
Oil Analysis tread, doesn't matter what oil as long as you have a analysis done or want to talk about it ?
For a few months now I was trying to find a way how to upload a 31 Kb PDF file, no luck whatsoever, and get this message from the forum
QUOTE Your file of 27.2 KB bytes exceeds the forum's limit of 19.5 KB for this filetype.
UNQUOTE
Soo Bbob gave me the link to a SHARE files and did that ... works great actually ?? I'm not a fan of putting files like this, but what the heck, times change, change is good ... :nerd
This test is showing that ( only in my case ) I CANNOT have more the 6500 Km in stead of the recommended 8000 Km on Victory Oil ... I have decided to change my Vic oil every 6000 Km from now on .... not 8000 Km
The best part of the report is the " smiley face " so reading the numbers is not easy but that smiley face does wonders on a report...
OK there are no highways here, small island, FAST riding, constantly shifting gears ... even when slow riding .... can't remember ever being in the same gear more then 20 minutes...
Cool. For us stateside folks; 6000 km is 3728 miles and 8000 km is 4970 miles.
Yeah, I agree, it really makes a big difference in the environment you ride. Long slab rides are no where near as hard on an engine as spirited mountain twisty riding with all the shifting and change in rpm/speed.
Yeah even if we ride in convoy or groups with low / slow RPM then still it is constantly shifting... indo island riding as a bit different than your roads... you could compare it to a go-gart-track ... ha ha ha
Now you can see 4 colons with numbers, every colon is a previous oil analysis... so let's only look at the right-side colon ... this is the last oil analysis I did ...
On the bottom of the page in the fourth colon you can see a orange number... this means "be careful" ... only after 6375 Km, if the numbers would be RED then there's a problem grrrr
So I figured out by doing oil analysis that I can only run Vic oil for 6500 Km as a maximum, but NOT 8000 Km as per manual...
Here are three lab tests from my 2004 Vegas using Rotella oil.
First change at around 3000 miles on the oil with Rotella T 15W-40
Second change with 5000 miles on the oil with 4qts Rotella T 15W40 and 2qts Rotella T6 synthetic.
This change went through the 110+ Phoenix temperatures.
Third change with 5,125 miles on the oil with Rotella T6.
This change had a bad throttle positioning sensor that dumped gas
and I didn't know it until a friend said he could smell gas when I accelerated.
Whoaw vindex your Vegas engine is looking good inside... amazing you can do so many miles between oil changes.... it took me a while understanding most of it... but slower scrolling over the pages I got the system of that oil analysis company...
Your CC is still not run-in, yeah can clearly see, a few more oil changes and your there, ha ha
Thank you for posting this vindex
It seems to me that VIC oil is inferior to SHELL .... especially with the temperature vs humidity here ...
So this tells me I "should" change the oil I use ---+ grrrrr
for the $$$ there are better oil choices, some like the much loved cheap rotella 15-40 are even less costly. it being for diesels that see TWICE the heat at the top ring is a good oil for the $$$ shell has reformulated their oils + may be even better than the oils on the shelves now, guessing their use of their own base oils from natural gas. real synthetic PAO + Ester oils are superior but at a cost + not knowing whats available at a reasonable cost in your area prevents suggestions. i see there are better oils in other countries to meet tougher specs + longer drain requirements + shell has different names as well for oils in other countries. all in all more proof that the OE oil is only decent + quite OVERPRICED, no secret for sure!!
for the $$$ there are better oil choices, some like the much loved cheap rotella 15-40 are even less costly. it being for diesels that see TWICE the heat at the top ring
How do you know it sees twice the heat at the top ring. I think your missed informed. For the money, regular rotella 15w-40 is a great choice. Why don't do an analysis of your great oil?
retired + love to read about interesting things like lubrication. recently read about the new formulations + classifications for the diesel oil soon to replace the on shelf shell line. they noted during their testing 3xx degrees for gas engines + 6xx for diesels @ the top ring with sophisticated test equipment for sure. its been noted in the past + just common sense that the closer to the combustion process the hotter it gets + with a diesels obvious very high cylinder pressures from compression + turbocharging its hot!! years ago amsoil did a vid showing the various temps in different parts of a big non water cooled motorcycle engine. when an oil analysis shows no viscosity loss the lubricant can actually be degraded because lighter fractions in the oil can burn off + that leaves the heavier fractions behind with more viscosity, yes + i read that from Noria on machinerylubrication.com an industry specialist
rodhotter;2069514 they noted during their testing 3xx degrees for gas engines + 6xx for diesels @ the top ring with sophisticated test equipment for sure. its been noted in the past + just common sense that the closer to the combustion process the hotter it gets [/QUOTE said:
Can you find the article that states the temps? Since it's on the internet, it might be like finding a needle in a hay stack.
yes I would like to see that too ... amsoil maybe someone have the test result ? they say redline is the best both are full synthetics ... would be nice to see the 8000 Km oil analysis ..
Just to get my head around things can you tell me if I am on the right road or not?
If the W means Winter and most buy 20W40 or 20W50 for there V-Twins would this be the correct oil for me?
I live in Queensland, Australia and our lowest Winter temps are 12-14C ( 54F - 58F ) in the morning and they raise to 18 - 20C ( 64F - 68F )
during the day and our Summer Average is 32C ( 90F ).
It states that the first number 20W is tested for cold start ups and that the 50 is for operating temperatures so should I be buying something
like a 10W50 as we do not have very cold mornings and the 10W would mean that the oil would flow quicker through the engine on start up
and offer a better protection to the engine by lubricating quicker?
Just to get my head around things can you tell me if I am on the right road or not?
If the W means Winter and most buy 20W40 or 20W50 for there V-Twins would this be the correct oil for me?
I live in Queensland, Australia and our lowest Winter temps are 12-14C ( 54F - 58F ) in the morning and they raise to 18 - 20C ( 64F - 68F )
during the day and our Summer Average is 32C ( 90F ).
It states that the first number 20W is tested for cold start ups and that the 50 is for operating temperatures so should I be buying something
like a 10W50 as we do not have very cold mornings and the 10W would mean that the oil would flow quicker through the engine on start up
and offer a better protection to the engine by lubricating quicker?
G'day mate,
I too am in Qld on the Gold Coast.
I've been running Aussie Penrite oils in everything for years.
Ran their semi synthetic for a while, before going to the 15-50 Full Synthetic MC motorcycle specific oil
Penrite now producing a 15-50 semi synthetic Diesel that's JASO MA so Im gonna give that a try after my freshened up motor is run in, or broke in as they say in US.
.
My Victory engine was pulled down for gearbox repair from a crash caused by a dog but that's another story.
After close inspection and running Penrite oils the wear inside the engine after 100,000+ kms is negligible and well within tolerances.
There's pics on my other threads.
What oil are you currently using and how many kms on your bike?
Although not a concern for those in warmer climes, the lower the W rating, the faster the oil begins to circulate. One thing I like about using Rotella T-6 is its 5W-40 weight and on cold morning start-ups, it fills the hydraulic lifters faster than the 20W-40 Vic oil did. Which indicates its coursing through the cold engine more easily too.
as noted the W lower # is for cold starting, but its tested @ 40C or 104F by law for classification purposes + unless its a group IV or V oil that thickens slower the oil is much thicker at less than 104F! the centistoke # or ISO grade is the actual thickness-viscosity. my 2006 traded hardly porkster stored in a 40-50 degree F garage rolled out to a 60F sunny afternoon cranked slowly + usually killed the battery with 20-50 amsoil which may have been a group III refined crude oil as they quietly switched formulations + quit touting PAO formulations. the wider the viscosity spread the more fragile viscosity improvers required, even group IV + V 10-50 use some but not nearly as much as group III, legally "synthetic" + lower oils REQUIRE!! Silkolene blends a 15-50 using a group III legally "synthetic" base oil with Ester, their costlier 10-50 also marketed as fully synthetic uses an Ester base oil to lessen the required viscosity improvers. few oil blenders even say what group base oil is used since the 1999 advertising law change allowing a severely hydrocracked CRUDE oil to be advertised + sold as synthetic almost everywhere in the world. a 20W group IV + or V oil will flow better than a refined CRUDE oil, although pour point depressors are added as needed to meet a spec + many additives do not last thats why we change our oil, more changes are required with cheaper oils as they do not last!! Vic oil is not cheap only made cheaply as it does not last!
You guys ever check out the Honda HP-4? Its a semi synthetic and its in a 10-W40, maybe too thick?? But I have used it in every machine I have ever owned.
I was good until new oil makes your car faster....unscientific. They should have put it on a dyno back to back not someone driving.
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