Exhaust pipes with less popping - Page 2 - Victory Forums - Victory Motorcycle Forum
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post #11 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-01-2012, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by dtmmil View Post
My plugs are pretty much black when I have pulled them out, so I am to rich for whatever reason. I haven't killed it at speed and pulled a plug yet though, mine has been after getting home, but its 25 miles of highway driving home for me.
ah, of COURSE they are black. You pulled your O2 sensors so the system simply pours in excess fuel. No mystery here, right?

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post #12 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-01-2012, 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by cnail1 View Post
I took the plunge and modified the factory pipes on my bike by removing the baffles. It sounds great but had a little popping with shifting. So I was advised to have Lloyds install their fuel controller, high performance air filter and IAV ...
The IAV is the ONLY thing that addresses backfiring/popping. What have you done to change it's settings/adjust it so far?

It's not just any victory.... It's MY Victory!

2011 Victory Ness Cross Country #120
Ness Thunderheaders
Ness Knurled Highway Pegs/KwelMetal Brackets
Ness Radius laydown license
Chrome CAM Tension Covers
Red Engine Bolts
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Küryakyn Upper Fork Shrouds
Küryakyn Lower Fork Covers
Power Commander V Tuner
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Hertz HCX 165s Speakers
JL Audio HX280/4 Bridged 140w

Last edited by ndabunka; 11-01-2012 at 11:30 PM.
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post #13 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-02-2012, 05:30 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Lem View Post
If its just popping on decal in gear its fairly normal, just probably made louder with your mods. You can tune it to reduce the amount, but its pretty normal in higher performance engines, take a notice behind a corvette or Camaro or other manual sports car and listen to their exhaust when they come off the accelerator.

That being said, usually a properly adjusted IAV valve seems to reduce popping in our bikes, and from what I understand it works best with the O2 sensors plugged in.

The popping is caused by the fuel mixture in the exhaust cycle when you come off the throttle therefore stop providing optimal AFR as well as spark, but since the bike is still in gear the transmission keeps spinning the engine. When enough gas gets sucked in during the overlap between exhaust and intake valves being open at the same time it can ignite from the heat of the engine and cause the popping. Tuning the popping out is basically making it so the amount of gas coming in is either too much or not enough produce the AFR needed for it to ignite from the heat, but theoretically I believe that means the fuel then gets burned off by your cats instead, the downside to trying to tune it out is that you will not be able to get it tuned out for every rpm under every heat condition and air density condition all at the same time. That little decal popping is not harmful to the engine, a true afterfire can be a warning of something bad, but the decal popping can be avoided by simply pulling in the clutch if you don't tune it out. Some people like the sound of it though.

And shooter, its all about getting the right combination of components to do what you want to do, I have a stage 1 flash, thunder exhaust, and high flow intake, and lloydz adjustable IAV and my bike runs exactly how I like, small amount of decal popping from high rpms but that's just because that's how I ride. Oh and I have my O2's plugged in, there's no real valid reason to unplug them in my opinion, even with a PC fuel management you can leave them plugged in to let your idle maps remain close to factory, all unplugging them really does is richen up your mixture at idle and low rpm's where it doesn't really matter for actual performance.
Very good info here. However, the popping I am having is while shifting gears up when starting out. It's annoying.

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post #14 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-02-2012, 12:13 PM
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Did Lloyd set you straight? It's always better to shift around 2800 and maybe tweak the IAV a 1/4 turn at a time. The popping should at least be minimized if not gone altogether.

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post #15 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-02-2012, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by cnail1 View Post
Very good info here. However, the popping I am having is while shifting gears up when starting out. It's annoying.
Popping while you shift is due to the same effect, however it can be reduced/eliminated by training your right hand to de-throttle at the correct time with your left hand that's pulling the clutch.

E.g. it will happen if you come off the throttle too soon before the clutch is disengaged enough.

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post #16 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-03-2012, 06:18 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ndabunka View Post
The IAV is the ONLY thing that addresses backfiring/popping. What have you done to change it's settings/adjust it so far?
I'm not sure which way to turn it. Kyle told me if I did'nt like the way it cranked up cold to adjust the valve out a half turn, but it could cause popping. So...I would assume turning it in would help with popping. Am I correct?

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post #17 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-03-2012, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by cnail1 View Post
I'm not sure which way to turn it. Kyle told me if I did'nt like the way it cranked up cold to adjust the valve out a half turn, but it could cause popping. So...I would assume turning it in would help with popping. Am I correct?
Yes, but too far in will make it have a hard time starting, that's why the instructions say to start at 4 turns out I believe, some people run it as far in as 2 turns from what I've read, but if your bike has a hard time starting then its too far in. You can always adjust it during the colder months to give it an easier time starting with a little more popping

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post #18 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-03-2012, 09:24 AM
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Thundermax

If you are serious about performance issues for your motorcycle and want a high quality tuner for your Victory motorcycle this is what we need to do.
I have contacted Zippers to find out when they will be coming out with the Thundermax Tuner (CCU) for Victory. This is what they said.

"At this time there are no plans to develop a unit for Victory Motorcycles."

This is the BEST TUNER money can buy for a HD. It is a closed loop system that works all the time. I have on on my Road King and that bike has never missed a beat in 50,000+ miles. It get rid of decel pop and does it own auto tune. It is also very adjustable via a computer linkup that you can do your self.

We all need to email Zippers at:
zippers@zippersperformance.com

and request that they produce a Thundermax for Victory Motorcycles.

This is the best possible mod you could ever do to your bike. KEN
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post #19 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-03-2012, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by ndabunka View Post
ah, of COURSE they are black. You pulled your O2 sensors so the system simply pours in excess fuel. No mystery here, right?
No, my plugs are black with the O2 sensors plugged in, the thrush mufflers installed, and the air strip removed. When I did unplug the O2 sensors it didnt seem to run any different, but I didn't run it that long, just long enough to get annoyed by all the popping, like I said it popped between every shift and on decel. I plugged the O2 sensors back in, the popping is pretty much gone, I get one once in a while now, but seems to be when the bike is cold, and the temps here have been cold.

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post #20 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-03-2012, 11:56 AM
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Why not try it BOTH ways and see if one way resolves your issues?

It's not just any victory.... It's MY Victory!

2011 Victory Ness Cross Country #120
Ness Thunderheaders
Ness Knurled Highway Pegs/KwelMetal Brackets
Ness Radius laydown license
Chrome CAM Tension Covers
Red Engine Bolts
Madstad System
DIY Garage Door Opener
Victory Chrome Saddle Bag Lid Rails
Küryakyn Upper Fork Shrouds
Küryakyn Lower Fork Covers
Power Commander V Tuner
Power Commander AT-300
Hertz HCX 165s Speakers
JL Audio HX280/4 Bridged 140w
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