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VB Tarzanz bars install pointers needed

16K views 91 replies 17 participants last post by  wspollack 
#1 ·
Installing Tarzanz apes on my scoot . Looking for clutch cable routing options to free up a couple inches , also wondering if anyone has lengthened their wires to keep them more tucked against the bars , or just left them the stock length and had them be more stretched . I believe the bars are +2 / +2 . I am trying to get it as neat as possible and avoid this look : see picture below of wiring at sharp angle due to being a little short , but will reach as is .... What have you fella's done ?

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#2 ·
It's tough to see from the photo, but could you route the clutch cable behind the triple tree? That's what I had to do with the brake line when I added CC bars to my CR, and it worked, although the clutch would be a lot easier. I had to disconnect the brake line, and then bleed them after.
 
#3 · (Edited)
scooter , is this pic better ? I will check your routing idea tonight but I think it will take more then that to get the slack needed .... Notice the wiring going diagonal due to its being to short now , do any of you guys lengthen the wiring to get it nice and tucked close to the bars ? Solder and shrink wrap so to speak ?

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#4 ·
Wow those bars really stretch out your wires and cables. Your're going to want to do something about that sooner or later, it takes away from the look of the bars.
 
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#5 ·
Agreed , I want to fix it now ..... Wondering if others have lengthened the wires or remedied this also .... I don't want to strip this down again for a long time ...:crzy:
 
#6 ·
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#7 ·
Are the Trazanz bars drilled for internal wiring? If you're going to go through the trouble and work of extending the wires, you might as well get them in the bars.
No , not drilled ......
 
#8 ·
Looks like my radio and cruise switch wires will be short too . I believe they will all reach but the desired look I want will not be achieved without extra labor , if its even possible ....
 
#9 ·
Looks to me like you're gonna have to bite the bullet and do it properly.
Wiring you can handle extending so it neatly follows the bars, remember to stagger your joins to avoid one big bunched up join.
A pain in the arse for sure.
What about clutch and throttle cables?
I just managed to get my Burleigh Bars on by re routing the clutch cable behind the triple tree, and pulling the brake hose through its fitting, but mine are reasonably close to original hand position.
Patience will get you through the wiring but cables may require money.
I don't understand why you didn't wait for winter.
 
#13 ·
I cant mess with it again until tomorrow , I'm at work tonight for another hour , then an hour and a half ride home ... I will get a better look at it tomorrow . Any info on clutch cable routing will be greatly appreciated . Looks like the front brake line and throttle cables have enough slack as is , it seems ....
 
#16 ·
It looks like it will all fly and work but I don't want the wiring stretched to the max ... It ruins the look of the apes . I'm not complaining at all so don't anyone get me wrong , this is all part of the custom / fab , world . Travis , let me know what your buddy says when you hear from him ....:wink
 
#20 ·
Only pic I have, and I also have the Tarzan bars. Mine are +2 back, +1 up, and my cables are a bit stretched as well. I couldn't see a way to make them run closer to the bars. So, they are how they are. I wonder if the bars might be a little wider than stock. I didn't check that. That might be another factor? If you get it figured out, post up & I might just redo mine.

 
#25 ·
Your cables look fine to me , my remaining issue seems to be where to route the clutch cable around and through the tree area without creating any "other" problems .... I believe my bars are +2 +2 That's what @travisP told me , but depending on the amount of Fireball and Beers he had , this info could be considered "Questionable" ...:ltr:
 
#23 ·
Thanks for reminding me of this write up , Bill and I are friends and have met for lunch in the past and he is a smart fella . I already emailed him . :grin
 
#24 ·
Looks like I can dial in the wiring to an acceptable "tightness" to the bars but after looking at the clutch cable I need an additional 1 3/4" or so of slack , and cant seem to figure out where to pick it up without presenting a "binding issue when turning " or a fitment problem when re-assembling the fairing ....
 
#26 ·
Mine are +3+1 I didn't have any issues with routing. But I cant remember how I routed the clutch cable. I do know I remember disconnecting it though. I can get better pictures tonight. Here is the only one I have. Which mine don't follow the bars, but IMO don't look bad at all.
 

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#27 ·
Thanks for the pics , and anymore you may have . My clutch cable is coming up short so a reroute is inevitable . Surely someone must remember what they did !:crzy:
 
#28 ·
Mags, I just replied to your email, but got a bounce message a minute later. Not sure if it's you or me, but we'll explore email some other time.

The short answer is that when putting on my Helis, I don't remember anything special about clutch-cable routing. Sorry.

I will add this, however:

1) I took lots of stuff off when I added the Helis: the fairing and the dash completely off, even though the Heli instructions tried to simplify things, by leaving the dash alone. This allowed me to carefully look at how things were routed at the bar clamps. Again, sorry, I don't remember any of the specifics (this was more than two years ago), but I do remember repositioning some cables/lines at the clamp area. That is, some stuff that used to go over the bars is now under the bars OR some stuff that was under is now over, OR both. Whatever resulted in a more direct route is how I went.

Take a look at this one pic -- Victory XCT HeliBars Installation -- and you'll see what I'm talking about.

The point here is that, IMHO, you want a really good view of what's going on, so take lots of things apart.

2) The big things for me were, unfortunately, in terms of your problem, on the right side, not on the left. Again, I may have moved stuff under the clamps, but a big help was also cutting this cable tie on the "neck" of the right side: Victory XCT HeliBars Installation

I also loosened and then changed the angle of the banjo bolt at the front-brake reservoir, to make it point more forward. And I did a very minor reworking of how the wires exited the cruise-control add-on plate. But again, nothing to do with the clutch.

I think your bars may be longer than the Helis -- sorry I can't be more help.
 
#29 ·
Thank you Bill , I went through your write up and pictures carefully , snipped all zip ties and have everything possible dismantled ... I'm thinking I need to route the clutch cable around the front of the frame neck and NOT through the trees as is the stock set-up .....
 
#30 ·
How is the comfort of these bars as compared to stock?
 
#32 ·
I was asking about the Tarzanz since you're puttin' 'em on... :) I also like the bars that PaiN installed.
 
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#33 ·
Well , I hope I like them . Feel great when sitting on my bike . I have them in line with the fork angle as of now but this may change . @PaiN says I will love them ! :smile
 
#37 ·
I pulled the cable back thru the trees so it now routes from u see the tank along the bars.
I appreciate the response , please help me understand this a little better ....:crzy:
 
#36 · (Edited)
No way will mine reach through the trees .... A buddy of mine who had a Vic with the HMD apes said to pull the cable out of the trees and run it up under the bars between the risers and up the left bar , and this will buy me 3-4 inches of slack , I hope he is correct .....
 
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