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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-13-2013, 08:59 PM Thread Starter
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Best way to ground multiple mods?

As of today I have used that ground screw under the seat and on the back of the gas tank. I have the ground wires from my PCV, AT, brake module, Stebel and heated grips all going to that point. I am thinking about running a wire from the battery (-) to that common ground. (that way all mods are grounded to the battery) Is that a good idea, or, what's a better idea?

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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-13-2013, 09:35 PM
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Here's my solution.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-13-2013, 09:38 PM
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Yep, get a grounding block and get rid of all the chassis grounds. There are some very good weatherproof ones on the market.


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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-13-2013, 09:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petegtsv10 View Post
As of today I have used that ground screw under the seat and on the back of the gas tank. I have the ground wires from my PCV, AT, brake module, Stebel and heated grips all going to that point. I am thinking about running a wire from the battery (-) to that common ground. (that way all mods are grounded to the battery) Is that a good idea, or, what's a better idea?
Your frame is already tied to the battery (-). If it wasn't, you'd have no electricity flowing.

But a single point ground as you've done is a good thing. It prevents unexpected current loops in the system. It won't hurt to run an extra wire, but it's a bit like pissing in the ocean.

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-13-2013, 09:49 PM
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Once you get more than 2 accessories it's best to install a fuse block to eliminate the clutter and insure a solid connection for your farkles. There's lots of 'em available-one with a relay is even better.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-13-2013, 10:17 PM Thread Starter
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Your frame is already tied to the battery (-). If it wasn't, you'd have no electricity flowing.

But a single point ground as you've done is a good thing. It prevents unexpected current loops in the system. It won't hurt to run an extra wire, but it's a bit like pissing in the ocean.
The factory screw at the rear flange of the gas tank might not get a frame-related ground. (too rubber isolated maybe) That's why I was thinking about adding a wire to the battery.

2011 CrossRoads (D&D, PCV w/AT, Lloydz filter/cams)
2012 Can-Am Spyder
Twin Turbo Porsche 911
FFR 1965 Cobra 427
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-14-2013, 08:25 AM
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Since you've already got some ground wires in one location under the seat, for on-going reliability I'd use Electrical Connection's ground block: http://www.electricalconnection.com/...tion/02207.htm . I used this on my Burgman (as well as a fuse panel). (Incidentally, the link for the enlarged pic on that page is wrong; it should be http://www.electricalconnection.com/images/02207.jpg .)

If you want to move your grounds near the battery, you could also use Powerlet's Termin-8: https://www.powerlet.com/product/ter...-fuseblock/409 . I use one on my XCT.

Both of those are high-quality products -- you get what you pay for.

I've also added relay-triggered fuse panels to my Burgman and my Valkyrie. These provide a little more flexibility and a few more connections. However, if your electrical farkling work is essentially done on the bike, I'd just go with the fuse block, above.

Cheers,

Bill P.

2012 XCT: HeliBars; Centramatics; PC-V; Lloydz air filter; 11" Madstad windshield; Rivco LED mirrors; Doran TPMS; Stebel horn; Motolights; CustomLED trunk flasher; KewlHeel shifter; CycleOps trunk rack; BeadRider seat; Vibranator bar ends; Passenger grab handles; Powerlet outlets; Handlebar RAM mount; RicZ laydown plate; Brukus SaddlebagSecure; 14" flexible antenna; RAM cupholder on trunk; shock Schrader valve relocation.

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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-14-2013, 06:42 PM
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This is what I use to hook up all my accessories that require power:

www.fuzeblocks.com

Worked like a charm on my old bike and the same with my current XCT
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