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post #1 of 171 (permalink) Old 03-06-2011, 10:13 PM Thread Starter
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Low Cost High Performance Mods

So, after listening, reading, asking questions, and especially with the help of our best resident Vic mechanic, I've done 4 mods that will give you the best seat of the pants feel in performance improvement at the lowest cost.

It's a combination of 4 things and if any of these 4 things are missing from the equation; there will be much less improvement.

1. Replace air filter with a high flow washable filter. The Victory one is fine. I used a modified K&N. Cost of this mod could be anywhere between free and $60 depending on where you get the filter.

2. Remove foam strip under tank for air intake. Cost: Zero.

3. Disconnect O2 sensors at the disconnect located about 6" back from the O2 sensors. Cost: zero.

4. Drill a 1-1/8" hole in the plate approximately 18" from the outer end of the pipe with a hole saw and extension's made for the hole saw. Cost: zero if you already have the tools or can borrow them. About $30 if you have to buy them like I did (from Lowes). Very important to make sure the hole saw and extensions are secured with the set screws in the extension or you will leave your hole saw in the muffler forever. Don't ask me how I know.

This allows the motor to breathe out and makes the exhaust a touch louder unless you really honk on it; then it barks somewhat but still not what I would consider loud.

If your engine grenades; hook up the sensors before having it towed to the dealer.

Total cost: Somewhere between $0 and $100 depending on where you might buy the filter and tools if need be.

I haven't put the bike on a dyno yet but my butt dyno tells me it has got to be at least 5 hp and maybe 8 ft lbs of tq more. It rides with 2 people on it as good as when one person was on it when stock.

I was going to make a cam change a high priority but after doing these simple things; I think it'll be just fine the way it is now.

Also, if you do everything but disconnect the sensors, it'll most likely be running too lean unless you use a fuel controller like the Lloydz or PC-V.

Edit: Warr110r posted a good thread on how he did the pipes and some vid's to compare the pipes.
Modified XC Exhaust

Last edited by BBob; 03-16-2011 at 01:31 AM.
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post #2 of 171 (permalink) Old 03-06-2011, 11:51 PM
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BBob,
Is that a 1-1/8" hole, or one 1/8" hole? Inquiring minds want to know.

2010 Midnight Cherry XR. Lloydz AF, ATS, VFCIII, IAV, and T-6 and locally repacked pipes = big smiles.
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post #3 of 171 (permalink) Old 03-07-2011, 12:16 AM Thread Starter
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Yes. It's a 1-1/8" hole. Just needs more air flow. Sounds better too IMHO.

If you happen to have the tools; it's takes less than a minute per exhaust to drill out. A 1" or 1-1/4" might work too if that's what is available.

I'll make the original post more clear on the size.

Last edited by BBob; 03-07-2011 at 12:20 AM.
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post #4 of 171 (permalink) Old 03-07-2011, 12:35 AM
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What's the ideal location of the 1.125 inch hole? Is it in the side of the pipe? Like, shooting towards the ground?

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post #5 of 171 (permalink) Old 03-07-2011, 12:38 AM
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Thanks for the tips BBob. I am thinking about pulling the seal under the tank but I've read it sounds like a vacuum cleaner with it off? What do you think? Is it a "good" noise?

Also, do you know if pulling the O2 sensors makes a difference when you have a Stage 1 map installed?

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post #6 of 171 (permalink) Old 03-07-2011, 12:43 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by CrossRoads View Post
What's the ideal location of the 1.125 inch hole? Is it in the side of the pipe? Like, shooting towards the ground?
The best way to find the plate where the hole is drilled is to take something about 2 feet long and run it straight into the exhaust pipe. About 18" in you'll hit the plate that needs to be drilled out.

Obviously a new set of D&D's or the Vic Stage 1 slip on mufflers with a fuel controller is better but this is for us penny conscious folks. Or maybe for someone who wants a performance increase while they are saving up for new mufflers and a fuel controller (like me).
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post #7 of 171 (permalink) Old 03-07-2011, 12:55 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bryman View Post
Thanks for the tips BBob. I am thinking about pulling the seal under the tank but I've read it sounds like a vacuum cleaner with it off? What do you think? Is it a "good" noise?

Also, do you know if pulling the O2 sensors makes a difference when you have a Stage 1 map installed?
I pulled the seal quite a while ago and I did notice the sound a few times but then I guess I just adjusted to it as being normal and didn't really notice it anymore. I usually ride with the radio on too though.

Yes. Disconnecting the O2 sensors will make the ECM go into its fail safe mode and instead of trying to make the bike run at the EPA mandated 14.7 AFR it will put it into a richer mid 13's AFR which is much better for an air cooled motor.

The way to check if the bike is running too lean is to run it up to 70 mph, have it in 5th gear and hold that speed for a little while. If there's any surging; it's too lean.

I have one of Lloydz IAV valves which adjusts the leanness at the zero throttle position; like where it would be when idling. If it's set too lean; there will be some popping at times. I haven't installed it yet because I've been doing these mods as I learned about them over the last couple of months. I installed this valve on my 09 Jackpot with the Stage 1 pipes, AF, and flash. It made a lot of difference in throttle response and toned the popping way down. Like a good 90% better. I think they are $72. I'll come back and post about it in this thread after I install it and take it for a ride.
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post #8 of 171 (permalink) Old 03-07-2011, 10:56 AM
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I have done these same mods, air filter, remove the strip and disconnected the O2 sensors along with installing D&D slip ons. I'm waiting for my fuel controller and air valve, but I have definitely noticed a difference in the the bike. Throttle seems to have a bit more pop to it. I don't get any popping or backfire, but I haven't really jumped on it yet either.

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post #9 of 171 (permalink) Old 03-08-2011, 10:02 AM
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I have pulled the O2 sensor wire and the rubber intake strip as well. The butt dyno says that there is a significant improvement. Next I will be getting the air filter and drill out the exhaust. I keep promising myself that there will be no engine mods.

Just a quick question though. Is there a hole at all in the exhaust plate that I will be drilling. Just wondering if there is a hole to start from that would help keep it all centered.

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post #10 of 171 (permalink) Old 03-08-2011, 10:40 AM
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Bbob, How's the sound after drilling that hole in the muffler plate? Will the neighbors now know when you're leaving and is there a loud drone when on the highway?

Can anybody tell us exactly what that plate is that's being drilled and what it is made of?

2010 Midnight Cherry XR. Lloydz AF, ATS, VFCIII, IAV, and T-6 and locally repacked pipes = big smiles.
2007 Chrysler 300C in arrest-me-red and wit da Hemi.
+ For the best license plate laydown bracket, click this:http://www.victoryforums.com/showthr...highlight=ricz
+ Steady your Cross bike on your lift with this cheap device...SOLD OUT but email me for directions to make your own. Address in this link;
http://www.victoryforums.com/showthr...t=lift+adapter

Last edited by RICZ; 03-08-2011 at 10:43 AM.
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