Quick, EZ way to relocate Shock filler nipple - Victory Forums - Victory Motorcycle Forum
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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-10-2013, 12:18 PM Thread Starter
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Quick, EZ way to relocate Shock filler nipple

There was another thread that ended up with this discussion, so I thought I'd repost as a how too as I final decided to get around to it. Yes, not elegant, but EZ. took no longer than 20 minutes, no major tools, and one part. NAPA Tire Hardware Dual Wheel Tire Valve part #90-330

Basically
1) remove seat
2) remove side cover over filler
3) Remove bold holding filler Nipple
4) Loose side plate it is mounted into (screw near it to right, don't even have to remove)
5) wiggle nipple out.
6) remove hose from "loop" on top of fender to allow play
7) re-route to just under seat bolt and attach braided extension
8) continue behind wires to behind frame fork mount to engine Bracket, either right or left (picture shows LEFT side, more room, less heat)
9) tighten screw holding nipple mount that came in kit
10) Zip tie where needed

I put the screw behind the bracket and tightened from other side.

And that's it!

PS First pic is sideways... sorry... seat on left should...needs rotation 90 degrees right

2-4-13 - After seeing Catroadman running filler to a zip tie holder behind hose, wiring harness, I decided to update this thread and change the mount to this side. If you wish to use Catroadman's drill out of that hole, you still have enough room running the cable in this direction without pulling tank and running through frame. In my case the zip tie hole is too hidden behind my reverse wiring harness.

Don't know why I was so focused mounting on same side as factory (beers and wrenching don't mix I guess) , it is much easier putting it on this side. Thanks Catroadman.
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File Type: jpg 2013-12-10 13.04.03.jpg (46.4 KB, 107 views)
File Type: jpg 2014-02-04 16.31.51.jpg (40.3 KB, 66 views)

Mike
2012 Black XC Tour, HELI bars,
1.5" lowering kit, Closeup Seat, Heli bars, Reverse, "sans cats", Thunder lollipops, ATS, IAV, PC5, RPWs, m.o.u.s.e...

Last edited by MTVic; 02-04-2014 at 04:23 PM. Reason: Relocated
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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-10-2013, 03:12 PM
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That's brilliant! I was so ticked to see all the scratches in my black paint from taking the cover on and off to adjust pressure. Not to mention, the darts and grommets are somewhat picky on that side. They aren't always seated when they seem to be.
Something to do while staring at the snow. Thanks



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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-10-2013, 05:03 PM
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good job hope you never burn your hand
I wounder why they didn't put the nipple between fender and bag on a L bracket pointing up

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Last edited by visionjohnny; 12-10-2013 at 05:06 PM.
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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-10-2013, 05:32 PM
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Mike: excellent work! And I really like how your pics show each step of the process, and that you provided the part #. Thanks.

Cheers,

Bill P.

2012 XCT: HeliBars; Centramatics; PC-V; Lloydz air filter; 11" Madstad windshield; Rivco LED mirrors; Doran TPMS; Stebel horn; Motolights; CustomLED trunk flasher; KewlHeel shifter; CycleOps trunk rack; BeadRider seat; Vibranator bar ends; Passenger grab handles; Powerlet outlets; Handlebar RAM mount; RicZ laydown plate; Brukus SaddlebagSecure; 14" flexible antenna; RAM cupholder on trunk; shock Schrader valve relocation.

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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-10-2013, 07:36 PM
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there is a rubber seal in the schrader valve. being that close to the exhaust that gets very hot may cause the rubber to fail thus a leak down.


it may be way to close to that pipe.

2013 black XCT.
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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-10-2013, 08:11 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OkieHoss View Post
there is a rubber seal in the schrader valve. being that close to the exhaust that gets very hot may cause the rubber to fail thus a leak down.


it may be way to close to that pipe.
First choice was to go to rear, but too difficult finding lines that were long enough at local stores. High quality braided lines are difficult to locate past 10" (please defer all dirty jokes to another thread...)

While close to exhaust, should not be heat issue. Went for 100 mile ride after doing this and while nipple was "warm" wasn't hot. Second, yes, if you want to adjust air during a long ride, you need to be careful of heat from heat shield on your fingers. I usually adjust just before a ride. I may add a 1 inch extender to take care of this problem. You can also angle it more away from exhaust as you can see there is room to spare before hitting clutch cable.

Now before some complain there may be too many connections to fail, I don't care. Too easy to replace a new extension or filler valve. A failure here doesn't cause me to stop riding like a clutch cable, only to repair a $1 part and 2 minutes labor. And while were talking about possibility of failure...WAIT UNTIL YOU SEE THE STUPID ANGLE THEY HAVE THE HOSE MAKING BEHIND THE FILLER NIPPLE! They have a beautiful curve with a retention clip on the fender, but have the hose almost crimped in a right angle behind the side plate!

Next step for me will be a Hydraulic clutch which will allow me to move it further away from exhaust, and either paint the clamp black or replace with a flat piece of metal mounted to the bolt on the engine bracket where the clutch cable will vanish from.

Anyway as I said not elegant, but cheap and easy and the braided line is designed for trucker tires, friction, water, heat...so I expect it can handle this.

Mike
2012 Black XC Tour, HELI bars,
1.5" lowering kit, Closeup Seat, Heli bars, Reverse, "sans cats", Thunder lollipops, ATS, IAV, PC5, RPWs, m.o.u.s.e...

Last edited by MTVic; 12-10-2013 at 08:37 PM.
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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-24-2014, 05:43 PM
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Would this extension work? It's 4" longer, so it may allow for a more ideal location. It's $15 on Amazon, and looks to be the same high quality braided steel line. I'm not much of a designer, anyone have any ideas on utilizing the extra length to locate a bit further from pipes/cylinder?

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Last edited by scooter; 02-01-2014 at 11:08 PM.
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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-27-2014, 07:22 AM Thread Starter
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Probably, as long as std. size fittings.

Mike
2012 Black XC Tour, HELI bars,
1.5" lowering kit, Closeup Seat, Heli bars, Reverse, "sans cats", Thunder lollipops, ATS, IAV, PC5, RPWs, m.o.u.s.e...
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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-27-2014, 07:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MTVic View Post
There was another thread that ended up with this discussion
Not to take anything away from your mod, but what is it that people find about popping that little side cover off irksome? I run ~40-45 lbs in mine and I might actually have to pop it off and pump a little in a couple times a year. Removing and replacing the side cover takes a matter of seconds. I don't get it.

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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-27-2014, 07:48 AM Thread Starter
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I adjust my air almost weekly. I'm small and when the wife joins me I have to alter it, then lower it again when I go solo. With a lowered bike it makes a huge difference. I also ride in NC a lot and will actually adjust it when we stop for breaks if major winding roads or I will scrape. When you do it that much that side cover becomes tiresome, and can easily get scratched up, an the grommets' holding it slowly breakdown. I had 1 crack just the first year.

Mike
2012 Black XC Tour, HELI bars,
1.5" lowering kit, Closeup Seat, Heli bars, Reverse, "sans cats", Thunder lollipops, ATS, IAV, PC5, RPWs, m.o.u.s.e...
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