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lloydz VFC III settings thread

50K views 84 replies 14 participants last post by  vindex1963 
#1 ·
I've searched all over and can't find a thread with settings for different
combinations and the effect of those settings. My case is the Bbob mod to my
mufflers with the 1 1/8" hole saw to the baffle block off plate and two 3/8" holes
to the backplate on my XC and tomorrow a lloydz filter. I am going to have a dyno
run done after the bike has 5000 miles. Seems like a good thing to help people set up their bike.
 
#2 ·
I couldn't find a thread on this subject either. I've had the VFC3 in for a few months now. What I have found is that the Vic is very forgiving! (to a point)...I found a good baseline setting where I am pretty happy about the way it runs. G 1.5, Y 3, R 2.5, GB 1, YB, 4.5, RB 3.5. I recently made some small changes to see if I could address the occaisional pop out the exhaust when upshifting. I changed G to 2, Y to 4, and R to 3. I will keep it like this for a while and decide the next step, if any. Once you've found a good baseline setting for your bike, only make really minor tweeks from there. I keep the settings on a sheet of paper in my garage. If I make a change, I record the new settings and the reason for making the change. This way, I can always get back to a good place. Sooner or later I'll dyno it and see how far off I am...lol:D
 
#4 ·
I got the stock, non stage 1 mufflers....All my other mods are listed in my signature. I am thinking about a set of RCX mufflers from WD, however. ..
 
#5 ·
Installed my VFC today and Danny from Lloydz included numbers for my setup.

1 1/8" hole saw to the baffle block off plate, two 3/8 holes in the end plate

Lloydz hiflow air filter


g-3.5
y-3
r-1
gb-0
yb-5
rb-3
 
#6 ·
#9 ·
if i remember right gb should be at zero unless running NOS
 
#11 ·
Email Rylan Vos at the Vic Shop and provide ALL the mods AFTER you do them. He helped me reduce popping and maybe some lean running. Nice guy. Lloydz is helpful too and so is KevinX. We are not alone.
 
#13 ·
My numbers are from Lloydz he included them on the packing slip and luckily after it's warmed up there isn't any popping.

1 is the lowest number, so thats where I put GB....I don't see a zero setting.....Does zero mean the light just goes out?:confused: I am perfectly capable of being a dolt...:D
That might be the case.
 
#12 ·
1 is the lowest number, so thats where I put GB....I don't see a zero setting.....Does zero mean the light just goes out?:confused: I am perfectly capable of being a dolt...:D
 
#14 ·
Victory stage 1 pipes with baffles removed, ness big air sucker, and vfc iii settings: G-3, Y-2, R-1, GB-0, YB-5, RB-3. That's what Danny from Lloydz recommended for my Jackpot. No popping whatsoever. Doubt this helps any, just thought I'd offer.
 
#16 ·
This may help or not. YMMV. Just something I acquired along the way and stuck it in my library of Victory things. This is first person but not me, I got it from someone else in another forum.

"The KevinX system for dialing in a VFCIII"

These are guidelines I got from KevinX at Gainesville Polaris to dial in a VFCIII. As you all know, all bikes are different, so take these as guidelines and not cold hard facts. In other words, if you can’t get your bike dialed in using these guidelines, don’t blame KevinX. It is also strongly suggested you study the instructions that come from Lloyds about the VFCIII. These guidelines assume you have a full understanding of what Lloyd wrote in those instructions.

Start with all the setting off or to the left.
Find a nice clear “closed course” to do the settings on.

GREEN: Run steady at 30 mph in second gear. Add fuel to the green until the surging stops, then add one full point.

YELLOW: Run steady at 30 mph in second gear. Smack the throttle and concentrate on the acceleration feel. You should notice it getting better as you add yellow. Keep adding yellow until the acceleration feels mushy, then back off one full point from that setting.

RED: Generally green plus one full point. If you want to play with it beyond that, try running at 60 mph in third gear. Do a hard roll on and concentrate on the way it pulls and how hard it pulls.

GREEN-BLUE: Leave off. If you have read Lloyd’s instructions you know what this setting does and if you need it or not. *** This setting is used when Nitrous Oxide is going to be used. It will dump a butt-load of fuel into the engine when the nitrous oxide system is activated.***

RED-BLUE: Generally 2.5 to 3.

YELLOW-BLUE:Generally 2.5 to 3."

As with everything, please follow the instructions supplied by Lloydz and if you're still uncertain, give them a call.
 
#17 ·
I checked my VFC and can confirm that there is no 0 setting. The lowest number you can set anything to is 1. The light will not go out if you try to go lower than 1...Where does this 0 everyone talks about come from?:confused::confused::confused:
 
#18 ·
it can go to 1/2, it goes from zero -? i cant remember, but when its flashing faster its at 1/2. i got rid of mine 2 yrs ago or i would go mess with it
 
#20 ·
The green on mine seems to be on the richer side but the bike runs really good. I'll see how my MPG is when I fill up.

I do have some observations though.
My commute to and from work is almost exactly the same every day.

1.
Days like today 105+ the bike ran a consistent 250 now it runs a consistent 240 so the oil temp is 10 degrees cooler not a big difference but a difference.

2.
The throttle response is much improved.

3.
While riding in heavy traffic where you're in 2nd or 3rd gear and the rpm's are around 2500-3000 the bike would ever so slightly surge almost unnoticeable but now that's completely gone so it must have been lean at the rpm and throttle position.
 
#23 ·
I gave the exhaust nuts a quick check with a wrench and they were not loose. Lloydz sells a softer gasket that supposedly seals better. I might go that route and see what happens...
 
#24 ·
one of my stock gaskets was leaking some, i never noticed till i pulled it out. it was in what i would call backwards, i replaced them with gaskets from oriellys for $3 each.
 
#25 ·
I have found that minimal throttle movement between shifts minimizes popping. And yes, if you still have the original exhaust gaskets, it would be beneficial to replace them with Lloydz or O'Rielly's, or any that are softer and more compliant that Vic's.
 
#27 ·
OK....So I see everyone is running a bit richer than I am...So I played with my settings and am now at G 2.5, Y 4, R 4, GB as low at it can go..(see previous discussion) YB 3.5, RB 3.5. It hasn't popped on an upshift yet since I made the change. maybe I was running lean during acceleration? I'll tell ya what, though...it cranks a lot harder now than it did before....:D
 
#29 ·
Perfect is good enough is my motto. thumb up
 
#32 ·
Well, after reading everyones postings here, I decided that I would do the 1 1/8 hole saw mod. I bumped the green on the VFC 3 up to 3 from 2.5, left everything else the same. I agree with vindex that the noise is not obnoxious at all. It won't piss off my neighbors, but when I crank on it, it's quite a bit louder...I'll probably spring for a proper set of slip ons maybe over the winter. But I'd have to say this was worth the 29 buck in tools and 5 minutes of time to do:D
 
#33 ·
Ride with your drilled pipes for a long while. I did that and eventually had repacks made that turned out to be louder--not obnoxiously so, but more than I had hoped. I would go back to the drilled pipes if I had my druthers. The good part is, Pretty Wife hears me coming and opens the garage door.:D
 
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#35 · (Edited)
I've had a fuel controller for awhile now but am holding off installing it until I can get a handle on a used Lloyds air filter from someone upgrading to tubes.(fingers crossed. the currency exchange rate is a bitch right now) One thing I've been doing in preparing for the addition is taking a hard look at what some others have done with the controllers. I've come to the conclusion that most settings listed by others are useless to me. I will start from scratch and follow the directions that have been offered by the pros on dialing it in on my own.

I say that because there are too many variables in the numbers. Quality control on the engines is so poor the tuners regularly indicate that two of the same model exhibit too many differences on the the dyno. Add to that a variety factors that have a direct bearing on results such as the intakes, exhausts, and internal engine differences such as cams and ECU programming in different bikes/models/years and there's quite a difference. Hell, even altitude is a major contributor.

Just to give you an idea of the spread in the examples here, the highs and lows of each step forum contributors provided here are:
G - low 1 high 3.5
Y - low 1 high 4
R - low 1 high 4
B - low 0 high 1
YB - low 3.5 high 5
RB - low 3 high 5

Those are some pretty wild spreads. To get even close I'd need a starting point from a couple of bikes of the same configuration. There's not many here but even if there was, it only gives me a starting point to adjust from so I might as well start from zero and do it right for my particular bike and configuration.

Hopefully this will all come together this year. On the other hand I may just go ahead and and add the controller this fall and play with it a bit then do it again when I add the intake. (My present intake is the stock box with some, "adjustments") This isn't rocket science and I'm sure it will be fun to learn a bit on what the changes actually do and how much control I really have.
 
#36 ·
No two bikes in the thread are set up the same so of course the setting will vary that only makes sense. I had contacted Danny at lloydz and from the 1000s of Dyno runs they do (Danny's words) they know what setting are good and I have to say mine runs VERY good. I have a local Dyno tuner for $40 will evaluate the air/fuel ratio and I might take it to him just to see.
 
#37 ·
Even bikes set up the same, either stock or options, seem to have variances on the dyno.

I'm in pretty much the same scenario as you. I've emailed Danny as well and his feedback guided me to be doing this myself rather than take someone else's results on the first go-round. I'm sure it will be straight forward.

I too have a couple of independent mechanics here that I've talked to and one says he can do the tune with his sniffer and get it close to the optimum. When I'm finished I'll be giving them a chance to see if they can fine tune it any better. Lots of experience with HD but only a couple of Vic's so it will help them out as well. For the price of an hours labour it certainly can't hurt. Again, it's not an immediate venture and I'm looking forward to see the results.
 
#38 ·
I've been in P.M. conversations with a known Vic person and they said my settings were way rich so I went out and looked at the bike and yes there was a fine coating of soot on the back of the bags so it's running rich. What do I know it's a new bike that I'm getting to know but I thought it was running good but after I did this on his suggestion.

old settings G3.5 Y3 R1 GB0 YB5 RB3
new settings G1.5 Y0 R1.5 GB0 YB6 RB6

The bike woke up much stronger while passing and seemed a lot smoother. He said with my set up the low RPM side is rich. Soon I'll have a dyno run to get it exact but for now these are my latest greatest settings. No doubt more to come.

MPG went up 1 to 43 so nothing there.
 
#39 ·
I've been playing around with mine quite a bit. Still trying to deal with the occaisonal little pop when upshifting. I found that the pop got MUCH worse as the green setting was pushed higher. I got as high as 4 and it really seemed to start being a dog and popping every time I shifted. I brought it back down and now I am at G 2.5, Y 4, R 3, GB 0, YB 3.5, RB 3.5. I also spoke to Danny at Lloydz about the mysterious "0" setting. If you press the down buttton at 1 until it is flashing fast, you are at 0. So that's where my GB is and was.
 
#40 ·
So...if a solid 1 is zero then you push the + so 1 is solid and 2 is flashing is it 1/2 or 1.5?

Your RB YB are set low and coming on early the higher the number there the later they come on.
 
#41 ·
If the 1 is flashing fast, it's zero. Once it's solid, it's 1.....As far as RB and YB being low, I'm still playing. I want the thing to take off when I crank the throttle, so I figured if the accelorator pump and main jet functions activate a bit sooner, it would be good. Not sure if I'm right, but it's easy to change if I decide to,..
 
#42 ·
If the 1 is flashing fast, it's zero. Once it's solid, it's 1.....As far as RB and YB being low, I'm still playing. I want the thing to take off when I crank the throttle, so I figured if the accelorator pump and main jet functions activate a bit sooner, it would be good. Not sure if I'm right, but it's easy to change if I decide to,..
...and that sir is the fun of it!!!


I never tried pushing the - again after it was 1 I'll try it today.
 
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