Finally, at 91,000, I decided to tackle my first fork oil change. After trying every way to get around the procedure in the manual, I broke down and got a spring compressor and oil level tool. These are well worth the money.
The first one took about 2 hours as I was paying meticulous attention to detail. The second was way quicker. I agree with the folks who said it will ride like a new bike. On the test ride I was practically looking for bumps. :grin
I won't wait do long next time.
BP that's 10mm extra air gap not oil
And I use a tape measure which is not all that special.
I ordered a pair of Gold Valve Emulators from RaceTech last night, theyre supposed to be the 'ducks guts' for us damper rod forks guys BP6666VR
My Vics a keeper so I want the best for the best!
Ill bite the bullet next front end teardown and replace the seals, drill out the damper rods and fit the gold valves.
Gonna have a magic carpet ride!
I just poured it in slowly and measured, its not hard to do.
Blowing seals on severe bump is a virtue of our damper style forks.
I read up on the Gold Valves before dumping the cash on em...
They work much better at both ends of the scale...from low speed bumps and braking...right through the spectrum all the way to high speed handling and hitting a bump at speed...win win win.
I got mine on ebay theyre discounted right now part no S4101
got notification theyre posted this morning USPS with tracking number so they dont muck around!
And no its not the oil that holds the bike up its the spring inside, the oil controls the damping...or tries to...get the Gold Valves if you really want good damping in both compression and rebound
Yes. I should have just got them in the first place. I was, however, able to drain 98% of the oil just from the plug at the bottom without removing the spring, But ensuring the correct amount is in there, and all the air is out of the cartridge, was worth it.
it can be done, but not recommended, by not pulling them apart and doing it properly you dont kniw how much oil you are getting in there, if some oil gets trapped and you add the specified amount(which is just a baseline) you will end up with to much, which could cause issues like seals leaking etc. when you tear them down and measure properly, it does not take alot of fluid to make a measurable difference. and by not disassembling you cannot inspect.
I made an appointment for this spring with a local mechanic to have a new set of tires put on and the fork oil replaced.
Its not overly expensive because I'm going to pull the rims and fork tubes then bring those in, instead of having the shop do and charge for all that work.
There are certain jobs that are "above my pay grade" and have to be done right. Tire mount/balance and fork oil change are two of those jobs.
a little note on fork fluids i posted before. unless using the same brand fluid all 10 wt fluids are not the same thickness!! centistoke is the exact spec that can be used for any fork fluid, only issue its not always listed on the container. a visit to peterverdone for more details
a little note on fork fluids i posted before. unless using the same brand fluid all 10 wt fluids are not the same thickness!! centistoke is the exact spec that can be used for any fork fluid, only issue its not always listed on the container. a visit to peterverdone for more details
The Fork Oil was not available on our little island so was very very difficult to get (impossible), so I bought it is Singapore, the name is;
OHLINS / FRONT FORK FLUID and the product is N0.10 as per below link ;
Don't tell me I bought the wrong one ..... i read that this No.10 oil is for Cartridge Type Front Forks . ai ai ai
It seems by "peterverdone" weight 13.7 but I am not understanding exactly .... if i can use this OHLINS or not ?
looking at verdone's recommendation for conventional, usually damper rod forks shows 34 cst @ 40* C "generally" recommended, the ohlins #10 fluid is 40 cst @ 40* C which is 104 F, so its a little thicker. if you want firmer forks this "may" be a suitable fluid, try it you may like it!! fork fluid temperatures rise little unless hard core racing so the thickness-viscosity @ 40* matters most. Vic gives little info on their lubricants as they are rebranded + increased priced products made by others. not knowing the centistoke rating to match fluids exactly another brand is trial + error. sticking with one brand will get better results when changing or for mixing fluids for fine tuning as needed. RedLine has many fluids + on verdones site shows recommended mixing rates. ohlins could be using Redline fluid as does Penske does since its a top line product.
unlike in the USA getting things in "your neck of the woods" is not so easy. people take for granted how good some things are + forget about people living in other areas. i look at australia as well + the $$$$ they pay for things. the internet can surely be helpful for many!!
unlike in the USA getting things in "your neck of the woods" is not so easy. people take for granted how good some things are + forget about people living in other areas. i look at australia as well + the $$$$ they pay for things. the internet can surely be helpful for many!!
Don't feel too bad for the price variations you'll hear about from different parts of the world. Without taking into account the wage scale differences you'll get an unfair comparison. The progression up from minimum wage may vary slightly but all countries will have pretty much the same percentage increases by profession. It all comes down to an individuals after tax discretionary spending dollars.
Minimum wages I found on the web are
Candada $10.25
United States varies by state from $7.25 - $10.50
Australia $17.29
Denmark $20.00 - $21.00
hopefully you all have a decent job, lots of variables to factor in for sure. here in usa wages + cost to live vary a bit as well, sometime you just "handle" more money!!!! while serving in the navy seabees being in vietnam there was a waiting list for going on R+R a vacation so to speak for australia! many lifetime military did not want duty in Hawaii because they could not afford to live off base with government salary!!
DEPOT PICKER... Are you still on your first drive belt? I am at 86,000 or so. I just mounted a new rear tire and I think when I change out next time I will replace my belt regardless of how it looks. It may go a lot longer but I hate waiting to see where I might be when it parts ways.
BOB ,.. Both actually, I'm fortunate enough living in the low desert that I have multiple routes to take to work. one that goes through a pass with nice mild sweepers, one that avoids the mountain completely and one that adds an extra 45-60 minutes to my ride but entails some nice switchbacks. The last I will only take spring through fall and only in daylight. There are a few fatalities every year on that road with both motors as well as those driving cars.
Still on the same pulleys. I bought a pulley with less than 5,000 miles off of ebay for the change out. I still need to buy a drive pulley. There not that pricey so I will probably just order that from a dealer. I need to get serious about changing that out next time I change tires. The belt looks fine but I prefer to use preventative maintenance over reactive to keep me from having to be towed.
Vision,, I agree, and I need to do some research to determine if I really need to change it. I had a brain fart and wokE up to the fact I have another engine in the garage with only 5,000 miles on it so I can compare the two sprockets.
Depot, Mine looks great as well however I know they can't be expected to last forever. I'm going to gamble a while longer and hopefully know when to throw down the cards.
You blokes are legends!
Proof our belts last waaaay past recomended replacement intervals, like 3X.. I been running with a central stone hole for 30,000 kms plus and the bike now has 84,685 kms on it.
I bought a spare belt off HET as insurance
Keep on belting out them miles!
if you have the owners book in there they show what to look for on the belts.
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