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Problems with handling

9K views 49 replies 10 participants last post by  Motorbikerx 
#1 ·
I have a 07 Jackpot. In the last two weeks the bike darts left and right every time I hit a crack in the pavement or a bump. I align the rear wheel again but that didn't seem to help. I think it's coming from the front end which is a new 5 degree tree. Anybody else have this problem?
 
#2 ·
when you changed the rake did you changed the brand of front tire too ? I'm interested in this topic outcome.
subscribed ..

Andre
@
TaPaTaLk
 
#4 ·
I didn't change the front wheel size of 21 inches. If you go to a 7 degree rake you have to change the wheel. I'm thinking that the neck did loosen up. The first two months I had it back together it seemed a lot tighter than this. Not a quick check. Have to remove the handlebars and the top of the triple tree off.
 
#5 ·
Steering head bearings is my wild ass guess too.
 
#7 ·
If the races weren't completely seated, steering could loosen just a bit it that kind of time frame. A friend of mine had that happen and was fine after readjusting the tension.
 
#9 ·
When you changed to raked trees, you changed the trail of the bike. Raked trees drastically reduce the trail measurement of a motorcycle, and reducing the trail can make a bike feel "squirrely" for lack of a better term. It can also cause high speed wobbles.

I'd recommend googling rake and trail, and measuring the trail on your bike (while you're sitting on it). Make sure it's not unsafe.

I made this mistake with a set of 7 degree trees on a Harley about 15 years ago. It almost got me killed, and it cost me about $1500 when all was said and done.
 
#11 ·
Get the bike up off the ground and rock the front end back and forth without tipping bike off jack of course.
It's a simple basic check for head looseness that I'd perform on any bike I was looking at checking over.
While you're at it swing bars side to side and feel for tightness and notchiness.
If there's any fore aft movement tighten up the head a bit but ensure its not too tight by checking side to side.
Very basic.
You've changed the steering geometry though and 21" fronts are notorious for following grooves and ripples,
Maybe you've just accentuated it.
 
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#14 ·
very good points MbX made on the post above ... yes get the bike off the ground and feel / wiggle the front fork .... not at the handlebars but at the bottom of the fork ....

Andre
@
TaPaTaLk
 
#16 ·
I'll try to make it simple and easy. With the bike on a lift and the front wheel off the ground, grab the bottom of the forks and yank back and forth - fore and aft - front to back. There should be NO movement. If there is, the steering head bearings are loose and need torquing.
Here's how I do it: With the bike on a lift, I remove what it takes to access the steering head nut and loosen top triple tree fork clamps and the big nut at the very top of the pivot. I place the tip of a long screwdriver in one of the notches of the adjusting nut and tap it in the direction that tightens the bearings and constantly reach down and yank on the forks. When there's no movement and no binding as you move the bars from side to side, you're golden! Properly torque the fork clamps and top nut.
 
#22 ·
that's a good idea, it would be possible for 2 tubes to have different contamination / colour / etc without any leaks ...

shop manual & 2 guys then it is an easy job

Andre
@
TaPaTaLk
 
#23 ·
Thanks Andre, when I press the front brake when the bike is moving forward with the engine off of course the front end goes down and stays down when I do it again the front end comes up and stays up. Very little bounce in the front end. Not sure if that's normal or not.
 
#26 · (Edited)
That's definitely not normal, get those forks stripped down you could have a broken spring or severely sagged springs, the manual has measurements.
Could be a good time to upgrade to RaceTech progressive springs, RaceTech Gold Valves and decent synthetic fork oil while they're stripped down.
It's not a hard job and extremely worthwhile, there's a modification to your damper rods as well to glean the maximum value from the Gold Valves, just entails drilling some extra holes in them.
You'll also need to cut yourself some new spacer tubes to make up the difference in spring lengths.
It's very rewarding going right through your Victory front end.
That's definitely where you problem lies from your description of its behaviour.
It's dangerous to ride it the way it is.
Search my Threads for a full description of how I went about revamping my Vegas front end.
 
#24 ·
so it would be good to change the fork oil, it is cheap insurance to eliminate your problem.

Andre
@
TaPaTaLk
 
#27 ·
Bikerz, Thanks for all info. I will order the part's today. I had the forks tore part to install the new tree but I didn't remove the springs should have up graded then. But that gives me an excuse to tear something apart again. I'll let you now how it comes out
 
#29 ·
#31 ·
yeahhhhh it's a bit of a read 11 pages ??? but then you have ALL the info you need ... PS did you download the shop manual already ?? can't do the job without that book mate ??

I printed a A3 size copy ... not a A4 size, that was just too small

Andre
@
TaPaTaLk
 
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