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14 8-Ball Blinker Problem Need Expert Help

5K views 11 replies 5 participants last post by  Joe_ 
#1 ·
Installed a fender eliminator in the rear and fixed the random hanging wires over the top of my tire.... (Whoever thought that was a good idea should be shot.) Also installed some LED light strips for the front blinkers. Attached them to some hose clamps so they're removable. Also sealed up the ends since they're just the cheap cut strips. I also ordered the LED module for the blinkers from Polaris so flash rate works perfectly. Works great in the garage without a hitch.

Riding to work.

Anytime it is in gear the signals "short" out after a minute. Blinker indicator just stays on and the blinkers no longer work. Put the bike in neutral while cruising along. Off, then on again with the key and everything is back to normal. Still rolling blinkers work. Put the bike in 2nd and let the clutch off. Blinker indicator stuck on again after a minute. It seems to vary and has worked for a couple of turns.

If I remove the front blinkers the bike electrically and works fine again even in gear. Auto cancelation works ect. I'm thinking these LED light strips are junk but since they work in when the bike is out of gear it seems strange. Put on a set of motogadget and they didn't work either. Wondering if anyone has an explanation for that?

Any help or schematic information would be much appreciated.
 
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#3 ·
Yes and yes it was. blue connected to black and black to blue via the connectors on the left side of this one. However my situation seems to be unique among all the posts I've read. Everything works unless your driving it. lol
 
#7 ·
Yes I do. I'm guessing there is too much resistance in the line since it works fine if I only have the front or the rear plugged in at one time?
 
#8 · (Edited)
Here is a thought.
You might be able to use a powered trailer light converter to get both sets of lights working the way you want them to work.

First you'd have to get one of the guys here who is using a powered trailer light converter on his Vic to power his bike trailer lights to tell you which brand of powered converter is compatible with the vic's temperamental flasher unit. I think that some of them do not work with the Victory flasher modules and some do. Either way someone who has set his vic up for towing a trailer could answer that question for you.

Then wire up one set of turn signals and the powered converter to the victory flasher system and use the powered trailer light converter to drive the second set or several other sets of signals.

Before you buy the converter be sure to contact the manufacturer and ask if their unit will properly drive an LED load. You need to be sure that it doesn't work strictly with conventional incandescent bulbs only. If it has an LED compatible output and is Vic flasher friendly it should work.

The way these converters work is that they read the signal from the tow vehicle lights and using a separate fused power wire power up the trailer lights to duplicate the output to the trailer's tail lights without putting and additional load on the main vehicles flasher system.


Could be that simple. No guaranties but it could work if you can find the correct module.
 
#9 ·
Well I win.

Measuring out the resistance to ground from the flasher module one side read WAY low. Only with the fender connected though. I cut out the LED strip I got from " Motorcycle Accessories | Motorcycle LED Lights | Motorcycle Sound Systems " for the fender eliminator kit and put a strip on I got from " Motorcycle Parts, Gear, Clothing, Helmets, Goggles, Gloves & More " . First off, way brighter, way better quality. Everything read out the same now...

Fast forward after half a roll of electrical tape, fender still off, zip tied everything to the support bar on the back. Set the seat on the bike and took off. Everything works like a champ.

Figured I'd share since it was kind of a weird situation I never saw before.
 
#12 ·
So what your saying is that if one is going to add additional led's or substitute other LED's you should measure the Ohms of the originals and be sure what you are substituting or end up with are the same ohms or very, very close?

There doesn't appear to be any sort of driver chip in the LED turn signals themselves causing an issue? it's a much simpler design just a bunch of LED's in series or parallel or both?

I haven't got there yet, I am sure I will be there in the future though. Problems come up frequently when people modify the signals so it is good of you to post this.
 
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