Throttle does not close when I release the grip. Noticed the oddity during last couple of rides last fall before bike was parked for winter. Almost works like manual cruise control - but requires a conscious effort to back off when shifting. I see a couple knurled thumb screws on the cable ends where they feed into the grip assembly. Which one is the return line, and can the friction be adjusted out. 7500 miles on a XCT. thanks, sheets
Sounds like your return cable it too tight , screw both those thumb adjusters in and see if the throttle snaps back freely , if there is not enough thread there to screw them in you may have to adjust it at the throttle , try the thumbscrews first . One will be the throttle pull cable , it wont hurt anything to loosen it up , this will at least determine if its too tight , you can fine adjust after you confirm the problem . Screwing the thumbscrews in loosens the cables .
Hi sheets ... The rear cable on the grip is the return ..... Yes try to spray penetrating oil in both of the cable, or even open the throttle assembly on the grip-side maybe dirt or some rubbing going on inside
It is not a complicated throttle assembly on these bikes ....
So cleaning and lubing and adjusting these 2 cables should do the trick .
A rain day is predicted one day soon. With your collective shared wisdom I'll nose around in there and see if I can remedy the problem. Thanks for the quick response,
Don't touch the stuff under your tank .... Just clean and look for rubbing at the handlebar area ... It is a 30 minutes job ... Go for it mate .... You can do it ....
But you could try just spray lube into the 2 throttle cables & throttle GRIP FIRSTLY and make it going again if possible ...
I like to try the cheap and easy things first and that would be to eyeball both ends of the rubber grip, there should be a visible gap. If not, just try pushing the rubber away from that end until you have a gap. Been there, done that. As you ride, you unwittingly move the rubber one way or the other. Good luck.
Doesn't seem to have any movement in either direction pushing on the rubber grip. Adjusted the thumb screws in and out . . . didn't notice any difference in resistance no matter where I set the screw adjustment. Off to a bike shop tomorrow to purchase some kind of lube. Don't really relish the idea of taking stuff apart. Any diagrams on what it looks like on the inside of the grip assembly?
Doesn't seem to have any movement in either direction pushing on the rubber grip. Adjusted the thumb screws in and out . . . didn't notice any difference in resistance no matter where I set the screw adjustment. Off to a bike shop tomorrow to purchase some kind of lube. Don't really relish the idea of taking stuff apart. Any diagrams on what it looks like on the inside of the grip assembly?
All part of owning a motorcycle friend. Much different than a car unless you have lots of disposable income and like going to a bike shop to take care of the myriad of little things needed to maintain a bike.
Of course it's nothing compared to how it was just 20 years ago.
In my sig line you will see a Free Service Manuals link. Download the one closest to what you have. It will serve you well and save you a ton of money. It will also take the mystery out of a lot of things. There are also many video on YouTube which can help a lot for first time jobs. I use them all the time for all kinds of things these days and not just on the bikes.
I guess its just West Coast guys. One thing no one asked, including me; I there any free-play in the throttle's action? That is, when the grip is at rest, is the a bit of rotation before you feel the pull on the cables?
Yes, there is a little free play. Small amount of wiggle before cable takes up slack. I looked under the tank to confirm which cable pulls with throttle. There is a small amount of slack. There is just enough resistance on the return to keep it from springing back on its own. A "little" manual persuasion easily rotates the throttle back to closed position. :|
dought lube will make that much difference. Have you put on new grips or had the switch housing open. If you say no then ok.
Pull the right cheese wedge and see if both cables are in there u grove.
Find your owner's book and it will tell you how to adjust the cables.
When you're sitting on the bike the cable closes to you is the return cable. The farthest one is the throttle cable.
Now with slack in throttle cable use thumb screw and take slack out.
But not all of slack.
Now with return cable screw thumb screw out till it starts returning throttle when you twist throttle. NO need for bike to be running.
If you still have binding pull end cap off grip and see what you get.
Okay, all good stuff suggested. Have to figure out how to remove the end cap. Interesting comment about the heated grips. Last fall on the last couple cold rides before hibernation I used the heated grips simply for the luxury of having them. That is when I first felt the added resistance on the throttle. I think all ya'all are on to something here. Off to town today, so will tinker tomorrow. Thanks all for the input.
Just viewed "Paul's" YouTube video, and looked at the service manual for inspect and adjust the thumb screws. I have a suspicion the swelling of the heated grips may be the culprit. I just happen to have a strap wrench for removing the end cap. Will look it over and readjust the little thumb screws tomorrow, now that I know what to look for and the proper procedure. Thanks all!!
to bad you didn't say you had heated grips in the beginning. You might have to pull it off and sand the bar down some. Then put a light grease on the bar to prevent sticking
Just take that strap wrench and give yourself some space for the grips to expand, I had the same problem about 4 years ago, it worked like you had cruise control.
The end cap is held in with barbs molded into the plastic. Removing it may compromise those barbs and make the cap useless, that happened to me. I found a pair of bright aluminum end caps put out by Bike Master that have an expandable rubber insert that holds 'em in place.
I have removed them a couple times with my rubber strap wrench with no damage, no vise grips please. I have an extra set because when I bought the heated grips they came with the additional end caps which are plastic. going to Daytona Bike Week next month and may look at something else for end caps , anybody have suggestions???
. . . er, uh, I mean behind the bars. First off, I didn't realize the end cap was stationary. All my previous bikes the end cap was part of and rotated with the grip. I do believe the swelling of the grips is the reason, but the real culprit was the dollar ninety-eight plastic cramp-buster chingus I had slipped on the grip. For my control/comfort I had the device positioned half on the rubber grip and half on the end cap. With the ever so small changing of the dimension of the rubber grip it put a equal amount of squeeze pressure where it was in contact with the end cap. That is where the rub was (pun intended). Removed the cramp-buster doohickey and adjusted the thumb screws according to the manual to take up excess slack, and all is good in the `hood.
I'm not sure which one of us is dyslexic, but the offered directions (throttle/return) are opposite of what the manual states. The long and short of the scenario is all is well. The human intervention was the problem to begin with.
Thanks for sharing your collective wisdom. sheets :ride:
Happy to see the problem fixed .... Always look for the small and easy first ....
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