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Monster Big Bore kit Testing!!

27K views 69 replies 13 participants last post by  rodhotter 
#1 ·
Endurance testing on Revolution Performance 132" cubic inch Victory Motor.

Turn up the volume!

 
#3 ·
Yes, we are working on finishing up our testing and development on our 117" bolt on big bore kits and the Monster 132" big bore kits. Once all the testing is complete we will be updating our web page to reflect our options for the Victory Motorcycles. Also to answer your question if we build motors YES we do!!
 
#4 ·
Love it... Awsome stuff revolution...

Andre
TaPaTaLk
 
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#5 ·
Nice vid. but the dyno #'s are a no show..... :confused:
 
#7 ·
Had a look at your site, I note you're using Nicasil plated bores too.
Prices look reasonable, I presume Victory kits will be priced competitively too.
What would we be looking at pricewise for 117" and 132" kits.
Are these outright for overseas customers or on an exchange basis.
Thanks.
 
#8 ·
This is so awesome! Thank you for the video and the information teaser of what you're working on for Victory owners.
 
#11 ·
This is something I'll be watching very closely. I'm thrilled you'll be offering a similar level of endurance as the factory. I've been waiting for a Nikasil kit to mimic the oem factory offering. I'm fully aware of the need to correctly warm up my 106". But I never understood why only iron liners were what we had as options.

All the best to you. I know I'm not alone in being anxious for the results of your final products. Especially if the known expert Victory tuners put their stamp of approval on them.

A couple of questions though, how did you end up at 117" and 132"? I'm assuming the current 116" and 129" kits are partly determined by what's readily available (sleeves and pistons) and can be made to work in a Victory engine. Are your 117" and 132" capacities simply a 'mine's bigger' talking point? Since you seem to be making more of a 'factory upgrade kit' I guess you have more options for the new engine capacity? Also, do either of kits require engine case and/or oil passageway alterations?

Thank You,
 
#15 ·
I hope Revolution Performance doesn't pull the plug on these Victory big bore kits.
 
#22 ·
the best is $$$$

every year NHRA prostockers engine builders search for a couple of HP to the tune of thousands $$$$$!!!! that last little bit making you better than the rest as noted is very costly!! longevity suffers as well when parts are pushed to their limits $$$$$$$$$$$$
 
#25 ·
KevinX,

I'm looking forward to you getting your hands on the 117" kit if/when it becomes available. Being Nikasil lined instead of iron sleeves makes me look at this possible kit as 'designed in' instead of 'added on'. I may be wrong but it gives me the impression of a 'factory 117" motor'. I hope this actually makes it to the market and is a cool as I want it to be.
 
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#26 ·
nikasil vs iron lined

from reading i was under the impression that nikasil + similar coated aluminum cylinders were superior to iron lined in many ways but cost, the reason HD does not use them!! as more power is made so is more heat + getting rid of that heat is better without the iron liners, even some high end super cars use nikasil + the like where cost is not a consideration!!
 
#28 · (Edited)
You can't bore the aluminum cylinders very far... they would be paper thin. When you go big you must re-sleeve the cylinders. Nikasil is not practical on steel sleeves either... so... you either do an aluminum jug with a Nikasil plated bore OR a ductile iron sleeve... not both.
 
#29 ·
Love your input HC, thank you for the clarification.
 
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#30 · (Edited)
i realise the reason for iron sleeves from lack of metal to bore, just comparing the two setups. when i had a 1200 porkster it was noted early cylinders could be overbored but not the later ones, guess HD wanted to sell new cylinders for the $$$, yes i believe these were all iron sleeved. article by donny peterson how HD Mucked up going cheap with bigger screamin chicken engines, sleeves were not stable + lack of metal around them for head sealing. boring is generally cheaper than stroking + unshrouded valves were a side benefit noted with automotive applications. bigger cylinders cast with more metal is an option but prolly even more $$$, not to mention billet CNC'd stuff which discount the cost of the machine itself would possibly ??? be cost effective, $$$$$ being the bottom line!!
 
#31 · (Edited)
Iron sleeves, done right, won't move. Iron sleeves, done by a crappy machinist, suck ass.
There is nothing wrong with iron liners... I've been beating them for around 90K miles now with zero issues and I'm getting ready to flog the crap out of another pair of iron lined jugs for hopefully another 90K miles.

i realize the reason for iron sleeves from lack of metal to bore, just comparing the two setups. when i had a 1200 porkster it was noted early cylinders could be overbored but not the later ones, guess HD wanted to sell new cylinders for the $$$, yes i believe these were all iron sleeved.
The old ones were iron sleeves... easy to bore. The new ones were aluminum w/Nikasil plating and cannot be bored over. It's not the grand conspiracy to rip you off that you think it is....
 
#32 ·
#33 ·
can't ride so i post!

i know iron sleeves work properly installed, just looking for comparison info from experienced guys like you, i greatly appreciate all i have learned on this forum from posters taking their time to educate others. before i got Hammered i was looking to see if nikasil was reliable, never having an engine that used it before, reliability + use of iron sleeves are proven for sure
 
#34 ·
So are you saying the iron sleeves can't be Nicasil plated?...too late to do mine now but the company I was talking to on here gave me the impression my iron sleeves could be done, least that's how I understood what they said.
 
#36 ·
search + read

yes iron liners can be nikasiled, there are many options for restoring or replacing cylinders. they all have plus + minus for said process + of course cost figures in. one site noted nikasil coatings outlast standard sleeves + is more tolerant to lack of lubrication + a little less friction as well, iron liners can be cheaply overbored unlike replating, pick your flavor!!!
 
#37 ·
I am wrong to assume that a Nikasil lined aluminum cylinder 117" kit would just be like it came from the factory that way? More 'designed in' instead of 'added on'. I'm excited about the possibilities of these two kits but also leery that since Victory was killed off, this kit may not actually get fully vetted or even make it to the market.

Hopefully one of the Four Masters get to fully test this soon and give us their findings on it.
 
#38 ·
If you want Victory big bore then the proven product is the Lloydz kits.
If there's no Iron sleeves going in after the barrels have been reamed out then they have to be Nikasilled.
I've gone with a Lloyds kit they utilise Darton sleeves which are extremely strong, as used in all the Top Fuel and Top Alcohol cars and bikes.
forged Wiseco pistons and rings are part of the package.
Lloyd is here to stay.
I say stick with the strength!
 
#40 ·
not enough metal

it was mentioned that there is not enough metal in the jug to bore + nikasil. am i correct assuming even though the jug needs bored more for a sleeve, a sleeve being stronger works well? or is it the PITA to send the jugs out for a proper recoat which costs more as does the original coating removal. thanks as i am just looking to learn!!
 
#42 · (Edited)
it was mentioned that there is not enough metal in the jug to bore + nikasil. am i correct assuming even though the jug needs bored more for a sleeve, a sleeve being stronger works well? or is it the PITA to send the jugs out for a proper recoat which costs more as does the original coating removal. thanks as i am just looking to learn!!
Six of one, half a dozen of the other.
I personally feel better knowing there's iron sleeves properly installed.
It's all a learning curve for me too and my bikes the guinea pig.
Im putting my faith in Lloyds tried and true methods.
Cylinder resleeving has been around a lot longer than Nicasil plating has.
Probably cheaper at the factory to initially build them Nicasil plated than fit sleeves.
Not that there's anything wrong with Nicasil if applied correctly.
My engineer wore out a boring bar removing the plating on mine so it must be tough.

If you haven't been following the progress here's some pix showing the boring and the finished resleeve after base and deck have been retrued, plus a pic of the Darton Sleeve.

This is for Lloydz 109/116 kit (mine started at 100 cube so is now 109, same kit in a 106 comes out 116")

Engineer shop rang me this morning wanting the fuel tank back. The motors back in the frame, everything's being connected up as I type this:)
Won't be long now hopefully....
 

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#41 ·
I have been waiting for the OP to answer some Technical Questions.... But reading back just some general ideas has been answered....

Exept for forum members of course, this is a nice thread to read.... A lot of good points

Andre
TaPaTaLk
 
#43 ·
lookin good

neat pics,torque plate for quality! it matters not but from reading nikasil coating is more costly + prolly done correctly only in a few places. fact that cars + trucks + most everyone HD included uses steel liners tells me its more cost efficient! i am always looking to learn about any engine, like Victory ***** engines are built well even though less technical. it was noted their large crank bearings + fractured rod caps, interesting stuff though not a bike i would buy!
 
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