Do I Need Heavier Clutch? - Victory Forums - Victory Motorcycle Forum
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post #1 of 69 (permalink) Old 04-01-2017, 07:41 PM Thread Starter
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Do I Need Heavier Clutch?

Hey guys,
Looking for confirmation of my suspicions and clutch advice.

Subject bike in my signature has 3,500 miles on it. About 6 weeks ago I noticed that gears 5 & 6 started to slip when I would give it some throttle at highway speeds. Now it has started to slip in all the gears. This only happens when I've been riding awhile and everything is good and heated up, which confuses me. I haven't opened the clutch cover but I'm pretty sure the plates are toasted.

Some considerations before you answer:
1. I installed the hydraulic clutch lever kit on it as soon as I brought the bike home from the dealer but have never felt as if the hydraulic clutch completely disengages when I release the lever. I have to let the lever almost all the way out to feel any friction.
2. Hydraulic clutch cannot be adjusted.
3. 500 mile checkup & oil change performed by reputable dealer & I also changed the oil again at 3,000 miles due to this problem. Victory oil both times.
4. I ride 2-up about 75% of the time and have pulled a 300-350 pound trailer about 1,700 miles.
5. No racing or hard riding on this bike.

Pretty sure the lack of clutch disengagement along with pulling a trailer 2-up are the roots of the problem. Do you agree?

Also, what would be the best clutch replacement setup? I have looked at the Barnett options of plates only, full scorpion clutch, or heavy duty diaphragm and pressure plate. Any other suggestions?

Thanks,
Stew

2016 Cross Country Tour

Mods:
Victory Passenger Arm Rests
Victory Back Rest
Heel Shifter
Hydraulic Clutch Actuator
Barnett Scorpion Clutch
2" Pull Back Handlebars
Bushtec Hitch

2013 Bushtec Quantum Trailer
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post #2 of 69 (permalink) Old 04-01-2017, 08:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tourider View Post
Hey guys,
Looking for confirmation of my suspicions and clutch advice.

Subject bike in my signature has 3,500 miles on it. About 6 weeks ago I noticed that gears 5 & 6 started to slip when I would give it some throttle at highway speeds. Now it has started to slip in all the gears. This only happens when I've been riding awhile and everything is good and heated up, which confuses me. I haven't opened the clutch cover but I'm pretty sure the plates are toasted.

Some considerations before you answer:
1. I installed the hydraulic clutch lever kit on it as soon as I brought the bike home from the dealer but have never felt as if the hydraulic clutch completely disengages when I release the lever. I have to let the lever almost all the way out to feel any friction.
2. Hydraulic clutch cannot be adjusted.
3. 500 mile checkup & oil change performed by reputable dealer & I also changed the oil again at 3,000 miles due to this problem. Victory oil both times.
4. I ride 2-up about 75% of the time and have pulled a 300-350 pound trailer about 1,700 miles.
5. No racing or hard riding on this bike.

Pretty sure the lack of clutch disengagement along with pulling a trailer 2-up are the roots of the problem. Do you agree?

Also, what would be the best clutch replacement setup? I have looked at the Barnett options of plates only, full scorpion clutch, or heavy duty diaphragm and pressure plate. Any other suggestions?

Thanks,
Stew
I agree,
yeah you've gotta have freeplay for sure...why did you go hydraulic in the first place.
Lets see what the others reckon....

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post #3 of 69 (permalink) Old 04-01-2017, 08:16 PM Thread Starter
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I went with hydraulic for less likelihood of being stranded with the wife on the roadside. Also a bit of OCD at play here since it irks me that one mirror is lower than the other with the stock cable. �� If it's going to keep burning clutches every 3,000 miles I will be going back to the cable.

They should have made the hydraulic adjustable, at least for the initial installation.

2016 Cross Country Tour

Mods:
Victory Passenger Arm Rests
Victory Back Rest
Heel Shifter
Hydraulic Clutch Actuator
Barnett Scorpion Clutch
2" Pull Back Handlebars
Bushtec Hitch

2013 Bushtec Quantum Trailer
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post #4 of 69 (permalink) Old 04-01-2017, 10:20 PM
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It is adjustable

Check in the manual for the Vision on clutch adjustment. It is inside the side cover or clutch cover. The arm that actually goes into the side(primary cover) has to have a bit of free play. One guy I know set his Vision this way.

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post #5 of 69 (permalink) Old 04-01-2017, 11:45 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedblue View Post
Check in the manual for the Vision on clutch adjustment. It is inside the side cover or clutch cover. The arm that actually goes into the side(primary cover) has to have a bit of free play. One guy I know set his Vision this way.
Thanks for The reminder. I read about that somewhere as well last fall but decided to leave it alone since the bike was brand new. Since I'm likely going to at least replace the frictions and steels, I'll try it now that I have to remove & reinstall the arm anyway

Stew

2016 Cross Country Tour

Mods:
Victory Passenger Arm Rests
Victory Back Rest
Heel Shifter
Hydraulic Clutch Actuator
Barnett Scorpion Clutch
2" Pull Back Handlebars
Bushtec Hitch

2013 Bushtec Quantum Trailer
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post #6 of 69 (permalink) Old 04-02-2017, 06:25 AM
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What is going on with all the clutch posts? they are dropping like flies....

@Tourider There is no way your clutch should be spent with 3k miles on the bike. I suspect that your feeling that it "wasn't right" after the initial hydraulic install was correct. You've probably been riding around half engaged since you did the change over.
I'd suggest you have the current clutch replaced asap, then ditch the hydraulic system for a Barnett stainless steel cable(which has better feel than the stock cable or hydraulic system and is adjustable), then get a Sav-UR-Ride cable to throw in your bag so there's no worries about being stranded due to a broken cable..

Barnett SS cable

Sav-UR-Ride
kevinx, RICZ, ftwflh and 2 others like this.

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post #7 of 69 (permalink) Old 04-02-2017, 07:51 AM
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Agreeing with PaiN here regarding the Barnett cable and the Save-ur-Ride. Barnett cable feels much better than stock and Save-ur-Ride is cheap reliable insurance
kevinx, RICZ and ftwflh like this.

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post #8 of 69 (permalink) Old 04-02-2017, 02:49 PM
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There is nothing wrong with hydraulic clutches. You get them set up right they'll last a long time. When its properly installed it self adjust on every pull.

Look up at BBobs signature. You'll find shop manuals there. Find the one for vision and read about the clutch.


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post #9 of 69 (permalink) Old 04-02-2017, 07:06 PM
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If a guy needs to refer to the manual to figure out how to adjust a clutch for freeplay, he should probably put down the tools and step away from the motorcycle.

Just sayin'

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post #10 of 69 (permalink) Old 04-02-2017, 08:54 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by visionjohnny View Post
There is nothing wrong with hydraulic clutches. You get them set up right they'll last a long time. When its properly installed it self adjust on every pull.

Look up at BBobs signature. You'll find shop manuals there. Find the one for vision and read about the clutch.
I tried adjusting the clutch pinion shaft arm according to the Vision manual today with no luck. In the original setup, the slave cylinder rod is extended to its maximum limit and Keeps the the pinion arm pulled about 1/16" measured where the cylinder rod attaches. Rotating the arm one notch toward the slave makes it well outside of the 15 +/- 5 degree range and causes too much free play.

Not sure if this means anything but I noticed in the photo on page 9.10 that the end of the release rack with the screwdriver slot is flush with the outer surface of the primary cover. Mine is a 1/4" or more inward.

Any other suggestions, or am I just SOL?

Thanks,
Stew

2016 Cross Country Tour

Mods:
Victory Passenger Arm Rests
Victory Back Rest
Heel Shifter
Hydraulic Clutch Actuator
Barnett Scorpion Clutch
2" Pull Back Handlebars
Bushtec Hitch

2013 Bushtec Quantum Trailer
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