Ive got a 06 ness signature JP with 5k miles on it. I noticed my idle was starting to drop down and the bike was popping and just had some hiccups that it never had before. So i tore her down and gave them a good cleaning and put it back together and holy cow she runs like a raped ape again. No popping or hiccups anymore and i also installed a vic tach on it and once she started up it idles right at 1000 rpm on the tach. Bike really smoothed out and starts up now with out even using the high idle lever.
My main question is, while i was cleaning the TB i looked down the throat of the rear cylinder and noticed something sticking out in the bore about 1/4 inch so i got a hold of it and barely pulled and got it out and it is a peice of O-ring. Must have got pinched during assembly at the factory or something cause its never been off. Ive sprayed carb cleaner all around the seam while it was running and the idle never changed so i dont think there is a leak there. I have a S&S intake im getting ready to put on and am wondering if i should go ahead and pull the TB off and put in new o rings. Also the intake boots that lead the the cylinders have alittle cracking on them but not sure how bad those get before needing replaced. Like i said though the bike runs great right now but since im putting the s&s intake on and taking it to the dealer to have the s&s 05 hammer drag map put on i wasnt sure if i should just go ahead and replace the intake boots and put new o rings on the bolt down the TB then take it to the dealer to have them load the map and adjust the TPS if it would need it.
Thanks guys

If your right there and can afford them I would.
Its better to be safe then sorry.
I would all so check the oil next time. Say drain your oil threw a t shirt or something to see if there is ant thing there.
Good catch on your part.

If your right there and can afford them I would.
Its better to be safe then sorry.
I would all so check the oil next time. Say drain your oil threw a t shirt or something to see if there is ant thing there.
Good catch on your part.

Just changed my oil the other day and everything was normal. None of the o ring fell into the motor and it dont seem to be leaking but im thinking just replace the intake boots and new o rings and slap the TB back on then the S&S intake and off to the dealer to get the s&s map and a TPS adjustment if its needed.
How much more of a pain in the ace is it to pull the TB off the intake boots and get the boots off the engine to swap out?? Dont look to hard, anything special i need to pay attention to?? I plan to just loosen the throttle cables up at the bars to give me enough slack to get them off the TB and undo the high idle cable. By pulling the TB off im not gonna knock the TPS out of whack will it??
Thanks again!!!

Called around looking for the throttle body adapter and o rings to do my replacement, but seems no one around here had them in stock and a couple online places where out of them as well. So i seen where Kevin X said he worked at http://www.polarisofgainesville.com/
so i figured i would give them a call and see if they would happen to have them in stock. Gave her the numbers over the phone and sure enough they had them in stock thumb up.
Seemed like a super nice place, and friendly staff!!
So in a couple days i should have the throttle body adapter and some new o-rings and be able to tear her down and put the new stuff on and the S&S intake then take it to go get the S&S map done just in time for winter here. LOL Oh well at least she will be ready to roll next season..
Thanks guys!!

Finally got a chance to pull the bike apart today and see what the deal was with the Orings on the throttle body adapter. Getting that stupid air box out of there is about the dumbest thing i thing i have ever seen though. Why they would design a air box that has to be cut out to remove it is the stupidest design ever. S&S will go on the as soon as I get my throttle body adapter and orings in from polaris of gainsville. Here is a picture of the throttle body adapter with the oring still in it. you can see on the bottom one where the oring got pinched. Must have happened during assembly at the factory or something cause the TB has never been removed. Im betting once she is back together all my popping on decel will go away. lol Spray carb cleaner while its running when cold and it didn't act like it was leaking but i tried it once the bike had fully warmed up and the idle went from 1000k and once i sprayed carb cleaner around the seam it would drop down to around 500 rpm and almost die so i knew there was a leak there..
Heres the pic

Glsad we could help out at PoG!

Glsad we could help out at PoG!

Yeah thanks Kevin!! Called and talked to Shelly I do believe and she got me set up with the part numbers i told her a needed. Got them in the mail 2 days later and put them on the bike already.
Got the S&S intake put on and the new throttle body adapter and orings and still have the same map in there as before and went ahead and started it up to see how far off it was.
Bike seems to want to idle really low when cold ihave to use the high idle lever to keep running. once its warmed up alittle it still seems low though. Its around the 800 rpm mark on my tach and kinda goes up and down alittle. Would this mean its lean or rich? Gonna get some new plugs and toss in it and let it idle for about 5-10 minutes and pull them to see what they look like. I pulled my old plugs to see if they were wet or anything but they were dry. Bike goes in to the shop next week 21st to have the s&s 05 hammer map installed and told them that it might need a tps adjustment as well. they said prolly around an hour to do the map and the tps would prolly take around a hour as well. This sound about right??
Thanks for the help to you guys there at pog!!!

From the sound of it. you may want to check to see if you have a vacume leak still, but it just may be rich from the TPS adjusted with the bad oring. Hard to tell, but with all that was done I would suggest you do a throttle sweep reset.

As to what you are being charged. I do the re-map, and TPS adjustment for a TOTAL of one hour

From the sound of it. you may want to check to see if you have a vacume leak still, but it just may be rich from the TPS adjusted with the bad oring. Hard to tell, but with all that was done I would suggest you do a throttle sweep reset.

As to what you are being charged. I do the re-map, and TPS adjustment for a TOTAL of one hour


Ok, i started it earlier and let it run and sprayed some carb cleaner around the base of the cleaner and TB and it didnt seem to phase it so i don't think i have a leak but i will double check tomorrow. Since i didnt have a new set of plugs i pulled mine out and tried cleaning them real good and got them fairly clean. I then went for about a 6-7 mile ride. got on it pretty hard a couple times (5k) and it seemed really strong. had it pop maybe once or twice on me. came back to the house and had it idle for a minute or two and it doesn't seem to very the rpm's a whole lot once warm. It idled around 900-950. Pulled the plugs out to see what they looked like and they were starting to turn alittle black. Not wet but slightly black. I will have to get some new plugs and get a better reading but im thinking it might still be rich. So you still thinking that the S&S 05 hammer drag map is my best bet with my setup or should i look at the PC3.
S&S intake and ness swept pipes is my current setup and don't really plan on any other motor stuff as of now i guess.
So i should just tell the dealer S&S 05 hammer drag map and to do a TPS adjustment?
I also did the tps sweep first thing before i ever started it after i put the intake on.
Thanks Kevin!!

Vic plugs SHOULD look a little on the rich side

Screw a PC....The S&S map is all you need

Vic plugs SHOULD look a little on the rich side

Screw a PC....The S&S map is all you need

Alright man thanks, Im gonna double check for air leaks tomorrow and see what i come up with but i took my time making sure it was all nice and tight and done right when i was in there but i will start her up tomorrow and spray some cleaner around the base of the TB to see if it affects it any.

So S&S 05 hammer drag map right??
Then adjust the TPS if it still acts weird after the map install correct??
This is off of s&s web site but this is the one im needing correct?
54-0121------2005 Hammer 100CI S&S Air Cleaner/STG I Drag System (Cobra)

Thanks again Kevin, Just tring to get my stuff straight so the dealer dont try to blow smoke up my ace.
If you werent so damn far away i would just have you do it. lol

Kevin
It takes about fifty miles for new plugs to change color. Your ecm should mix the fuel for you. I would touch your settings. When you go to the dealer tell him every think you have found and what you have done. Holding information back only screws you.
They might be able to shed more light on your problem.
Why not call Lloydz and ask them what would be the best download.
You sound like your pretty smart with what your doing.
Good Luck:)

Well got the bike to the dealer and loaded the s&s 05 hammer map. Told them everything i found and did to it and showed them the pic of the cut oring and told them that it would probably need the tps calibrated and they told ok that they would do the map first and test ride it and if it needed the tps adjusted then they would go from there. After they loaded the map and came back from the test ride they said they dont think it needs a tps adjustment and it ran great so i loaded it up and went home. When cold i have to run the high idle lever for 30 seconds or so to keep running but once its up to temp it idles right around 950-1000 and took it for a ride to see if it would pull any harder. So after about 5 miles of cruising around i decided to see what she had. Came to a stop on a long straight road and just laid into it. It broke the tire loose alittle when shifting to second and just kept feeding her gears and before i knew it i looked down and i was at 110. It pulled hard and smooth through all the gears and seems that the backfireing is all gone. Only rode it for about 20 minutes so i guess time will tell once i get some more miles on her.
I also called lloydz to see what other options i had but he said just like kevin said that the hammer map is a popular map and would be fine, but also told me about the ecm's that he programs. Starts with a 92 cu base map and tweaks everything to run with the 100cu engines. Said that i would get alittle more out of my setup this way but prolly only notice it on a dyno. And since i was on my way to the dealer already when i talked to him i went ahead and till the reflash instead.
Thanks a ton Kevin for your help on the right map to use!!

Kevin
It takes about fifty miles for new plugs to change color. Your ecm should mix the fuel for you. I would touch your settings. When you go to the dealer tell him every think you have found and what you have done. Holding information back only screws you.
They might be able to shed more light on your problem.
Why not call Lloydz and ask them what would be the best download.
You sound like your pretty smart with what your doing.
Good Luck:)


I guess you don't know who KevinX is. KevinX is a Mechanic/Technician and PoG (Polaris of Gainsville). Not only that but he is considered one of THE authorities on Victory bikes.

You can bet your last dollar that LLoyd will say the same thing Kevin suggests!

thanks for posting that pic, i been looking for that dam idle screw on and off for past 3 days, thanks man!cheers