more reach [Archive] - Victory Forums - Victory Motorcycle Forum

: more reach


dirtdobber
12-22-2010, 06:02 PM
Well I got my 2 inch + inch handlebars (powder coated black) a few minutes ago. Already have the bike fairly taken apart. So Now (weather permitting) I can get it back together. All the stuff I have ordered is here.
Handle bars from Santa Rosa, IPod/connection cable and extension, speakers. This will have to do it until after Christmas.
I seen a blacked out XC that looked great. So I am thinking about doing a Blue/black XC. I have found a powder coater that does custom coating. Heat shields and the chrome engine covers.

Merry Christmas

dd

gregbenner
12-22-2010, 06:45 PM
DD, I have the same bars ordered, how much of a hassle is it to change them? I was thinking of letting the dealer do it, but would rather do it muself if not too complex.

The black out idea sounds great!

Please post results as soon as you get them on.

dirtdobber
12-22-2010, 08:41 PM
I just got them today and had to teach at church so it will be tomorrow.
I read the service manual on how to change them. It will just be time consuming. Removal if the inner fairing will not be that hard, just 4 bolts and disconnecting a few wire plugs.
If you do decide to do it yourself get everything ready to come off the bars (clutch side grip, and hand controls) before trying to removing the bars.
I will be doing everything at once, handlebars and IPod. So I will be removing the tank.
If you do not have a manual get it here for download
http://redbookhouse.com/manuals/Victory%20Cross%20Roads%20and%20Cross%20Country/

gregbenner
12-23-2010, 09:36 AM
Thanks DD. Please let us know if it takes any special tools, or is particularly challenging. Also, as I understand it, all the stock cables etc are supposed to fit with undo stretching. Hopefully that ends up being the case.

dirtdobber
12-23-2010, 01:30 PM
I have gotten started on replacing the bars. I decided I would take photos as I go. Maybe it will help someone later.

dd

visionjohnny
12-23-2010, 01:57 PM
I have gotten started on replacing the bars. I decided I would take photos as I go. Maybe it will help someone later.

dd

I know I am being silly but cover your gas tank really good use a heavy blanket. Go slow and be careful.
thumb up

gregbenner
12-23-2010, 02:52 PM
I have gotten started on replacing the bars. I decided I would take photos as I go. Maybe it will help someone later.

dd

Great idea! I would like to change mine myself. I presume you have to take the fairing completely off?

dirtdobber
12-23-2010, 05:09 PM
First off the outer fairing has to be removed but the inner fairing only has to be take lose from the mount so it will move forward to clear the handle bar mounts. You may need to play with it some if you are using lower wind deflectors. The get in the way some. I was able to move it around enough for the inner to clear.

This how I save time, I do not remove anything until it is time and do not take anything apart that doesn't need to. In this photo you can see how I slid the mirror mount out of the way to work. If you are going to use the black powder coated bars take extra caution, you can scratch the bars easily.
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c53/dirtdobber2/IMG_0409Small.jpg?t=1293144040

When you start to remove the clutch side grip I use a small allen wrench that is round on the end so I will not puncture the grip. I then spray with WD40 thoroughly working the allen farther in as to get the WD40 around every part of the grip then work it until it turns lose.
This photo is the throttle side but you can see how to remove the weighted end by using wood as not to damage the chrome. Give good licks with the hammer them suckers are in there good.
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c53/dirtdobber2/IMG_0410Small.jpg?t=1293144235

In the lower part of the photo you will see 2 bolts on the fairing mount. There are 4, 2 at the bottom and 2 upward which are hid by the wiring but easily seen. Remove all 4. There are rubber washers with spacers that may come out at the same time if they do set them aside with the bolts, you do not want to lose these guys.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c53/dirtdobber2/IMG_0411Small.jpg?t=1293144513

IN this photo you can see the handle bar mounts are exposed. You can put slight pressure on the windscreen (cover it for protection) and you can get to the allen screws on top and the bottom are easy to get to. These suckers are tight so make sure you have the allen all the way in before trying to loosen them.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c53/dirtdobber2/IMG_0412Small.jpg?t=1293144807

In this photo you how you need to turn the bars backward to slid the clutch lever mount complete and the throttle housing complete. Normally it is not necessary to flip the bars but due to the length it is. When you flip the bars flip them upward mounting surface, upward.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c53/dirtdobber2/IMG_0416Small.jpg?t=1293145065

This last photo is what the black powder coated bars looks like.
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c53/dirtdobber2/IMG_0418.jpg?t=1293145380

If you will be using the black powder coated bars it may be necessary to sand off the coating where the throttle will be. Mine was sticking so I had to remove some of the coating to free it up.

I had to cut the throttle cables ties to get enough slack for them not to be too tight. I had to stop before getting completely finished.
It isn't hard just time consuming.
Momma said to come in so I came in. Ya here me

Hope this helps someone down the road.

gregbenner
12-23-2010, 05:17 PM
DD, VERY helpful, thanks.

One question, when you say you cut the throttle cable, what does this mean? Do these bikes have the "throttle by wire" set up? Not sure I understand it, but the newer Harleys have it.

I see you have a WIng? I have one with a Hannigan sidecar....great machine.

dirtdobber
12-23-2010, 05:41 PM
I had to cut the throttle cables ties to get enough slack for them not to be too tight.

Just under the frame there is a plastic wire tie. I had to cut it so the cable could be moved.
When I posted it see what I had wrote and changed it.

dd

gregbenner
12-23-2010, 06:15 PM
Just under the frame there is a plastic wire tie. I had to cut it so the cable could be moved.
When I posted it see what I had wrote and changed it.

dd

Boy, what a difference a word makes:D

Thanks again, I hope to get my handlebars next week... I got chrome since I already have a blacked out Dyna.

TGreene
12-25-2010, 12:12 AM
I received my pullback bars this morning from SRVT, and it took me about 4 hours for the install from start to finish...

I did discover that the front brake line pulled too much, so I loosened the banjo fitting on the master cylinder and moved it just a hair so the line no longer had a hard bend at the end of it. This gave me a good 1/2" extra to work with. I didn't find the clutch cable to be nearly as difficult to work with, once I moved some of the other cabling that was blocking it's direct path where it enters the fairing and wraps around the frame neck.

-Tim

gulliverstoe
12-25-2010, 04:04 PM
what a great shop...what great bikes...small potatoes down here, that's for sure....looking forward to seeing the mods...

BBob
12-26-2010, 01:57 PM
Many thanks dd for taking the pics and walking us through this procedure. How long is it taking for the SRVT +2" bars to get shipped these days? I like the apes HMD has but after my 100 mile ride yesterday I realized I really just need them to be a couple inches closer.

I'm doing almost the same thing dd. Ipod cables, handlebars, installing a garage door button, clock and thermostat (white faced) on the upper fairing under the windshield, and Kicker speakers.

I'm also doing some product testing for Brukus Security (http://brukus.com/cgi-bin/p/awtp-home.cgi?d=brukus-motorcycle-parts) mounts for the saddlebags. I have never trusted the HD/Vic type twist pin's. Too easy to steal and occasionally the bags just fall off. Probably from not inserting them correctly when in a hurry and something in the bag unscrews them. I'll keep you posted on when they will be available for the XC/XR's. Inexpensive insurance for peace of mind.

dirtdobber
12-26-2010, 02:59 PM
I got my bars in 5 working days.
There are several ways of adding security for you bags. Some use bolts with locking nuts on the inside of the bag itself. Some use a bolt and drill the end of the bolt to use a slip pin type lock in the bag. Like you use on lawn more trailers but smaller. Use pins that fit the rubber cushions and drill a hole and use a fastener of your choice. I will tell ya this small locks work good but can be aggravating. These are the easiest to do and low cost.

Make sure the bag remains rubber mounting to help eliminate cracks.

post up some photos when ya are finished.
I am experiencing a delay due to the weather. We got 6" of snow. this is our first white Christmas since 1962

dd

visionjohnny
12-26-2010, 05:02 PM
Many thanks dd for taking the pics and walking us through this procedure. How long is it taking for the SRVT +2" bars to get shipped these days? I like the apes HMD has but after my 100 mile ride yesterday I realized I really just need them to be a couple inches closer.

I'm doing almost the same thing dd. Ipod cables, handlebars, installing a garage door button, clock and thermostat (white faced) on the upper fairing under the windshield, and Kicker speakers.

I'm also doing some product testing for Brukus Security (http://brukus.com/cgi-bin/p/awtp-home.cgi?d=brukus-motorcycle-parts) mounts for the saddlebags. I have never trusted the HD/Vic type twist pin's. Too easy to steal and occasionally the bags just fall off. Probably from not inserting them correctly when in a hurry and something in the bag unscrews them. I'll keep you posted on when they will be available for the XC/XR's. Inexpensive insurance for peace of mind.

Say if there doing to charge for the saddle bag mounts write and tell you how to get them for about two bucks from the hardware store.

BBob
12-26-2010, 06:03 PM
Say if there doing to charge for the saddle bag mounts write and tell you how to get them for about two bucks from the hardware store.

True. It's also true anyone can buy a Brukus set and have the keyed wrench to remove the bags. I figure if someone is that into stealing your bags; they're gone. Like most security devices; these just help keep the average scumbag from ripping you off. With the stock pins; you can reach around to the back with a nickel or quarter and spin the pin off the keeper. Once they get the back one off they have room to reach the front one. They can worry about opening the bag at their leisure back at their lair.

Still, these kits don't cost much and to be straight up honest about it, one per bag is all someone really needs. Two per bag doesn't prevent the bag from falling off or getting ripped off anymore than one per bag. As part of the product testing for the XC/XR bikes; I'll be telling Brukus that. I find the front pin to be hard to get to anyway so just using one of these or the $2 bolt and keeper on the back is plenty good. I like their idea's and what they are trying to do so I support them.

Another little trick I like to use is the Bagger Pouch. If you click here (http://www.saracenibags.com/index.html) and scroll down about halfway you can see them installed in an HD bag. Today I drilled a couple of holes in the inside wall of the XC bags and used some short bolts with nylock nuts to keep the little stuff organized. Good place for insurance and registration too. For around $30 a set; they're pretty good IMHO. I found the back of the bag to match up best.

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z133/netbob928_photos/2010-12-26--16-54-04.jpg
http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z133/netbob928_photos/2010-12-26--16-54-12.jpg

rdeerx
12-27-2010, 08:55 AM
As for the bag. I went to my local Walmart and bought the pencil bags, $1.00 each (they have zippers to close them) that kids use in their 3-ring binders. Got the stick on velcro and placed them in the saddlebag anywhere you choose. Cheap solution.

dirtdobber
12-27-2010, 09:21 AM
I like the apes HMD has but after my 100 mile ride yesterday I realized I really just need them to be a couple inches closer.


You are going to be surprised how far up you can put the bars. With the xtra 2 inches they will go upward a lot.

I will check out the pencil bag. Sounds like a good solution. Getting my wife to sew something for me will take a lot of talking. :confused:

I prefer having saddle bag lid organizers, they are easy to get to when the bags are loaded and take up very little room.

rdeerx
12-27-2010, 11:12 AM
I had thought about the Victory lid liners they have, but at $50, I thought they were a little pricey. Plus I believe they go on with a sticky or velcro. I figured with myself being in FL and the heat, they may come loose from the lid anyway. So I just placed these pencil bags on the inside of the bag. I did the same with a cellphone holder & my garage door opener. All are handy to get to.

dirtdobber
12-27-2010, 02:18 PM
I will be doing some searching for lid organizers but they will not be Victory's.
When I finish fabing up my cruise pegs, driving lights and luggage rack I will take a look at what is out there. I do not like the HD brand either. The pockets are small and hard to hard to get into. There is a lot of aftermarket stuff out there you just have to find what you are looking for and check if it will work with the Victory.
I have a lot of stuff from HD on my VTX. Almost all my fabing requires special tools and experience but then I make a screw up at sometimes.
Sometimes it's a failure and but most times (if I do my homework properly) it works.
The double sided glue works good if you do it right. I use 3M extreme spray contact glue and it has never failed me. Also the double sided red tape (super stick) will not turn lose. If you use either make sure you get it where you want it, there is not a second chance once it has set up.
I have all winter to get my projects finished. I do not ride my XC in the colder days. I have another bike for that.

BBob
12-27-2010, 10:03 PM
Just to add to what dd said; the double-sided tape has come a long way and even in extreme conditions like Florida and Arizona they do hold up.

Now; if you have some of the old double-sided stuff around; I wouldn't count on it working like the good new stuff.

Just a heads-up, eh.

dirtdobber
12-29-2010, 05:28 PM
I finally got a ride in today with the new bars and speakers.

Victory needs to look at adding the +2 bars as standard. Day light and dark differences. I am completely comfortable on the XC now.
The infinity kappa 52.91 speakers are worth consideration. More than enough volume. Volume set at 10 and 70mph they were clear with good bass (set at o), tweeter set at -3 db, and loud. The speakers stayed clear all the way up.

just a thought

dd

BBob
12-30-2010, 12:48 AM
Thanks for the review dd. Always good to know when we are headed in the right direction with these part changes. I've got to agree. The bars should be stock at +2 and the windshield should be stock at +4" or 13".

I'm just waiting for more funds to come in so I can order the bars. Cables and MP3 player are on the way.

rking35209
12-30-2010, 04:02 PM
Thanks for the review dd. Always good to know when we are headed in the right direction with these part changes. I've got to agree. The bars should be stock at +2 and the windshield should be stock at +4" or 13".

I'm just waiting for more funds to come in so I can order the bars. Cables and MP3 player are on the way.
Curios as to why you are getting new cables?

BBob
12-30-2010, 04:13 PM
Not clutch cables, etc. I'm waiting on the iPod, extension, and aux cables.

gregbenner
12-30-2010, 07:53 PM
[QUOTE=dirtdobber;18662The infinity kappa 52.91 speakers are worth consideration. More than enough volume. Volume set at 10 and 70mph they were clear with good bass (set at o), tweeter set at -3 db, and loud. The speakers stayed clear all the way up.
[/QUOTE]

My 2+ handlebars should be here in a couple days. Going to install the Lloydz cams next week as well:), plus Motolights.

DD, did you do a separate post on the Infinity speakers? Do you have a XC or a XR? If a XC, how do they compare? Maybe a separate thread so others will see with a search.

gulliverstoe
12-31-2010, 09:31 AM
howdy dd

where did you get your speakers and were they difficult to install?

dirtdobber
12-31-2010, 10:17 AM
I got them from crutchfield. They were on sale and I needed speaker adapters for my truck (wiring) and 6.5 inch to 5.25 inch plastic adapter that I may use later to make a adapter to install 6.5 inch speakers later. Chrutchfield gives ya free mounting hardware when you buy speakers for the specific installation.
The speaker cover just pops out. Take a small screwdriver and put it in the top center of the grill to get it to pull out some then just pop the outside of the grill out with your hand.
Simple install, I made a short pigtail for them to wire up. Wiring comes with it.
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c53/dirtdobber2/IMG_0410Small.jpg?t=1293812998
You can get a better price here:

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Infinity+-+5-1/4%22+2-Way+Car+Speakers+with+Woven+Glass+Fiber+Cones+%28P air%29+-+Black/Silver/8759131.p?skuId=8759131&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=8759131&ref=06&cmp=RMX&loc=01&id=1202650463702

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_19641_Infinity_Kappa_529i.aspx

http://www.buycheapr.com/us/result.jsp?ga=us10&q=infinity+kappa+52.9+i

dirtdobber
12-31-2010, 10:25 AM
Thanks for the review dd. Always good to know when we are headed in the right direction with these part changes. I've got to agree. The bars should be stock at +2 and the windshield should be stock at +4" or 13".

I'm just waiting for more funds to come in so I can order the bars. Cables and MP3 player are on the way.

Why are you getting new cables?

They are not needed. Just cut the plastic tie where the throttle cable/wiring is just below the tank on the frame. You will have plenty then. Clutch cable is good as it is. For the brake line (someone else gets the credit , just can't remember who it was)

Loosen the brake line on the front brake reservoir slightly, just enough for it to move. Move it to have a better line of fitment.
That's it.

I will say this I have never seen so many screws on a set of handle bars before.
you do not have to remove the inner fairing like the manual says to.

gregbenner
01-12-2011, 03:41 PM
Put mine om today, thx to this site it only took 2.5 - 3 hours.

One thing that disappointed me re: the Santa Rosa bars is that they did not have the knurled section where the clamps bolts on. There is a safety reason that most bars have this, particularly bars as tall as these:(

BBob
01-12-2011, 03:55 PM
I wouldn't worry too much about the knurls Greg. If the bars stood more straight up then the torque on acceleration might move them but these almost come straight back.

DD: I'm just getting the iPod extension cables. Not the handlebar cables.

dirtdobber
01-12-2011, 04:53 PM
My bad

Maybe a new set of glasses are in order. Oh well, the V.A. said next may. Maybe I won't get too lost before then LOL :ltr:

Now if this snow would go away so I could ride.

visionjohnny
01-12-2011, 05:28 PM
My bad

Maybe a new set of glasses are in order. Oh well, the V.A. said next may. Maybe I won't get too lost before then LOL :ltr:

Now if this snow would go away so I could ride.

Hey Greg get out your hammer and punch and beat some dimples in where the clamps are. You really don't want them smooth.

dirtdobber
01-12-2011, 05:55 PM
If you are concerned about not having the dimples, I use a metal type sand paper. It more like a rough screen. Cut it the size you need and place it between the riser and handle bar on either side or both then tighten
Because of the design it grabs on both sides, inner and outer

It isn't going any where then
My +2 bars are powder coated so they are a very tight fit, I mean tight. Doubt if I have a problem. The riser cap would not go into place without screwing them down.

gregbenner
01-12-2011, 07:24 PM
I wouldn't worry too much about the knurls Greg. If the bars stood more straight up then the torque on acceleration might move them but these almost come straight back.
.

BBob, I agree, it's just that they advertized them as direct copies, only 2" longer. Just not true. Over the years, I have had a couple issues with non-knurled bars. It saves money for the supplier, but can be an issue.

Oh well, I really like the new riding postion:D