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Why pay for exhaust?

26K views 36 replies 16 participants last post by  Tims_04V92TC 
#1 ·
Well, I decided to modify my stock exhaust to make the exhaust note "respectable" at least. So for $0 I now can hear my exhaust but it's not unbearable straight pipes. I simply took the mufflers off, cut them in half with a cut-off wheel, removed the middle baffle plate and welded them back together. MUCH better and I figure I saved myself $700. And best thing is I can still get the fluted tips. The mufflers still have the baffling in them but there is a straight shot through them.

Worth every cent. ;)

Derrick
 
#2 ·
Yesterday the wife got me a set of fluted tips for the exhaust. VERY nice accent. But, I feel sorry for anyone who put these on following the instructions. The instructions say to pull the entire muffler and some of the plastic trim off to put these one. It actually only needs a 10mm wrench. AND you need a saw that the instructions don't mention to cut off the black portion of the stock '12 slash tips. If I didn't already have the tools and thought this was a simple bolt on when I bought them, then got home to read those instruction, I would have been P*SSED!

So, in summary, you need a 10mm wrench, some type of metal cutting tool, and a lighter to burn the instructions to install thee tips!!

Derrick
 
#3 ·
Neat. I am a modder as well. I just did the Thrush muffler mod. So far I am liking it a lot. Great sound and it runs just the same. I did not have a remap done nor add a fuel controller. I might add one if I eventualy open up the air box.

My MC was bare stock with stock map. If I am right it really feels like it is running cooler..........

How is yours running with the opened up exhaust?

Bill
 
#4 ·
Much better throttle response. It does pop every so often when decelerating as I expect it needs more fuel at idle. But I love it. It's nice to actually be able to hear the bike, but not even close to the annoying decibels of a harley or straight pipes.

Derrick
 
#5 ·
I posted on another site that I did this mod and a few guys are saying I am being cheap for not taking it to the dealer for a remap or Dyno check................ I did not reply to that issue but just because I did not spend a lot of money on my exhaust does not make me cheap. If there was the slightest indicator it was running worse I would take it in but it runs better, I am sure. So, I think we are on the same page. I think it runs cooler, still fast as heck and I am not seeing any poping, backfire or acceleration lags......

I am glad it is working for you. After a little work isn't it nice to hear the Vision sound like it should.

Good Job!

Bill
 
#7 ·
Thanks CB, I actually talked to a Victory dealer when I was in South Carolina and he told me he heard a Thrush set up with no remap and it seemed fine. He told me they did muffler mods all the time with no change in the air fuel mix..........

On the internet you can ask 10 guys about something and get a 50/50 split of opinions. When the dealer gave me that feedback I decided to try it. My results were good so Im happy.

Again thanks, dont want to hijack the thread but all good exhaust mods have a discussion at some point about A/F mix..... I just think until a guy changes the air box he is probably OK. Anyhow, if I do anything about my A/F mix I think I would buy Lloyds controller.

Bill
 
#10 ·
Absolutely no loss in low in grunt. In fact i have to say that's where the largest gains are. And as for the re-map, unless significant changes are made to intake/exhaust, the remap will only truly affect idle and full throttle conditions. Within the learning limits of the computer, the computer will adjust A/F ratio (using the O2 sensors) to the correct values during part throttle operation. That''s why, for me, I only see any popping at closed throttle deceleration. That's the great thing about EFI.

I kept thinking about taking pictures, but didn't. It is pretty simple if you have a cutoff wheel, welder, and 3-4 hours of time. I got the idea from a post on utube from someone who did a similar mod. As I said, I determined to try it, and if I didn't like it, I'd go get an aftermarket exhaust. Good thing I did! Saved a LOT of money. AND it got me out in the garage for a morning which is hard to do since I sold my last project car.

Derrick
 
#14 ·
Actually half_crazy is right. That's why yamaha uses the exup valve on thier exhaust, so you can get better low end torque. So I'm guessing your not able to lift the front wheel off the ground anymore. Damm!!!
 
#16 ·
How's this:
Thrush Mod:

Need:
(2) #24205 Thrush Glass Pak Mufflers 2 ¼” in/out and 31” OAL
(6) 8 or 10mm Hex Bolts w/12 washers and Nyloc nuts
(1) Roll of Strapping Material
(12) 4” Pipe/Hose Clamps
(2) 1”sq tubing cut about 6” long and used as a spacer at the back bracket mount point.
(6) 2” Pipe Clamp Brackets
(2) 4” Resonator Tips 2 ¼” x 4” x 9”
Procedure:
Remove Lower Plastic Panels from both sides.
Remove Stock Exhaust pipes by loosening main clamp, and 6 mounting bolts (3 per side)
Once the stock exhaust is off you have to cut the straps that hold on the heat shields so you can reuse them with new pipe/hose clamps. I used 4", you will need 6 of them.
Mount the Thrush Mufflers using stock Header to Muffler Clamps.
Secure tail end of muffler with Pipe strap, or new muffler straps to the old locations. You will need new 8 or 10mm bolts as the originals are welded to the old pipes.
Once you have the pipes secured and clamped down tight, Install the Tips (whichever one's you decide to go with).
Install the stock heat shields over the new pipes using 6 Pipe Clamps (4")

That's pretty much it. Some of you that have done it might want to add steps I missed or a technique that you used that was different.

It took me about 4 hours. After your first ride, re-tighten the header to muffler clamp (while hot) to ensure there are no leaks. Make sure your tips are very tight, I actually safety wired mine to the frame so they wouldn't slide off with vibration over time.
 
#17 · (Edited)
Well I don't know if I lost low end torque as it sure don't feel like it in the seat from my mod but I know without a doubt that I am still getting mid 40s on MPG, the bike SOUNDS like it should, nice low end rumble but nothing like my S1L1's on my TC and I DID add Lloydz 2nd upper air filter with no remap. The engine became more noticable with just the muffler mod, adding the filter finished the job and yes, it does seem to run cooler or my right leg has gotten used to the heat. It will set your butt back now where before it would lumber off the line and never really felt like it had any real Uuumpphhhh....

Looking at the 2011 muffler design, I chose to drill the exterior of the muffler tip, 7 - 1/2" holes after removing the black flange from the tip. NOT the center baffle which was removed on this thread. I read some 6, 7 and some 8 holes from differnt riders. Went down the middle with 7. The bike sounds and feels awsome and cost was at 100 bucks because I bought the filter.. Already had the drill bit. I get VERY few backfires, usually only if I drop off WOT to close. Downshifting has a little, subtle, no big pops or anything. Sounds almost identicle to my TC with has the Ness BigSucker, Stage 1 flash and S1L1 pipes which look about like the thrush I believe.

So, if you want to try something free, drill first... If you like it leave it. I would add the Lloydz filter if your doing any mod. As for rich lean, my pipe tips look about like my TC do, maybe a little more dark. I am about to pull the plugs as I wanted 1000 miles on the mod to see how they're looking. Doing it RIGHT is a fuel controller, dyno along with the exhaust and intake WITH CAMS! BUT, funds don't allow that right now. Will be doing cams sooner than later and THEN will get all the widgets in line.. :) Good luck on which ever way you go.

Safe ridin,
Tim
 
#19 ·
Could you explain/educate me on the VV filter subject:
Ness sells a "twin sucker front filter", also sells Vision performance kit. I'm new to VV, so, doesn't the bike have ONE air filter?
Also, Lloyds has the "Vision Intake Filter". Would that replace the stock filter or is it an additional filter?
I'm understanding and following what is being said about the exhaust and the choices for that, but I'm just not getting the air filter/number of/location of filters.... BTW, mine's a 2008 Vic Vision. I bought used and believe it is all stock.
Then once I get that understood.... Is the fuel controller (Lloyd's, or power commader or big shot II) necessary?

Thank you all for your time.....(hey, I'm an electrician, not a mechanic still on my learning curve). Cheers.... Greg
 
#18 ·
i put 20" thrush in my mufflers and the low end power is much better. it used to get jerky at around 2000 rpm and now it will pull smooth down to 1800. i rarely get that low on rpm but even in the low 2000's it runs much smoother.
 
#22 · (Edited)
On the 2011 exhaust at least, there is the inner baffle about 15" back which I DID NOT drill (some have drilled both) but only drilled the exterior of the pipes using a 1/2" drill bit careful to not get too close to the outer rim of the pipe. You will need to remove the chrome tip keeping it for reinstallation after your done, hacksaw or dremmel the pipe flange off about 1/2" from the muffler itself. The picture is pretty self explanatory. I have heard of using 6 holes and 8 so I chose 7. I have very little popping with the O2's hooked up but am about to unplug them and ride for a while to see how it does. This is in conjunction with Lloydz upper 2nd filter and no controller.

If you got questions, let me know. Doesnt sound like a sewing machine anymore and has a nice sound down the road while not killing the neighbors when I leave for work early A.M. Gas MPG is still about 42-45. Some say may loose some low end torque, I do not think I lost anything but I did do both the muffler and air filter within days of each other. Between the two mods, the bike absolutely has more giddy up and only complaint I had was the cramps I was getting from smiling so much!!!!

Again, make sure you only drill the back of the pipe out, not the inner baffle. This is a 12" 1/2 dia drill bit. I checked cost at home depot, 12 bucks.
 

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#34 · (Edited)
Tools needed:
1/2 in drill bit 6-10" length will work fine
Hack saw (with a good blade)
Dremmil cutting wheel if you want to dress it up
10mm box end wrench and 10mm 1/4 drive socket

Remove 3 bolts from chrome tip and slide back off exhaust. You may have to rotate the tip to get the welded nuts to clear the flange.
Saw the pipe protruding out of the muffler off as close as you can get to the muffler. You are removing the fancy filler plate
If you want, use dremmel to clen up cut closer to muffler
Now drill 6 or 7 1/2" holes in muffler tip centering between exhaust port and edge of muffler. You do not need to remove the muffler for this and the mid section baffle will remain in tact.
Now reinstall chrome tip with the 3 bolts and do other side.
To unhook the O2 sensors remove the left plastic wrap panel behind the back can. It has 2 of those plast insert fasteners hold the 2 pcs together. Once removed open the left saddle bag and gently pull the back portion loose from the rubber grommet and then the same on the front. You may have to lift the edge of your seat a little. Follow the back o2 to the black connector. Unhook and secure. The front is a bit easier, under the left side of the starter cover, I used a pair of needle nose pliers and a screw driver to. Nod this one. You may get a caution light on your first start but should clear next start.

I installed the 2nd upper filter about the same time and and between the have been very happy with the bike. If you got questions gimme a shout. Afraid this is the only pic I got

Edited to add access to the rear O2 sensor to disconnect.
 

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#23 ·
Now I see what you're explaining. Well, here's the question of the hour: I've read here and other blogs that to drill the center baffle with an 1 1/8" holesaw. Is that good or bad? Unfortunetely, that's the path I took this AM. Sounds good, not too loud to bug my neighbors, but, I'm not motor smart (confident?) and I really DO NOT want to mess up my Vision. I guess worst case, I'd need to purchase new exhaust.....

Thanks for your time and pictures....

(I also found some stuff on youtube about drilling the center baffle)

Greg
 
#24 ·
Nope, your good to go. I must have missed your model tag in the signature line on the other thread but is why I proceeded the example with 2011 on mine. Your baffle if I am not mistaken has the center plug which drilling out is what would be the equivalent of the above would be. So you should have fairly much the same result and you did what you were supposed to do by drilling out the center. I was shooting for not too much louder, like you but above stock and more importantly something to compliment the Lloydz filter. I think your on track, order that 2nd filter! You will be amazed!! thumb up

There are several VV riders on here that are willing to walk you through about anything, feel free to post it up! Good luck and safe ridin Greg
 
#26 ·
Vision Thrush Exhaust Mod...

I just did the thrush exhaust mod last weekend. I'm really loving the sound and the added low end torque. Yes it does "pop" every now and then but I remember those mufflers on a 1971 SS car and they did the same thing. It actually sounds good. I've noticed a couple of mpg's more too. So glad my ride doesn't sound like a moped any longer. All for under $130.00 and 4 hours work.
 
#27 ·
I just did the thrush exhaust mod last weekend. I'm really loving the sound and the added low end torque. Yes it does "pop" every now and then but I remember those mufflers on a 1971 SS car and they did the same thing. It actually sounds good. I've noticed a couple of mpg's more too. So glad my ride doesn't sound like a moped any longer. All for under $130.00 and 4 hours work.
Upper air filter installed? Did you unplug your O2 sensors?

Really looking forward to swapping out exhausts one day but too many things eatting up that bike mod savings.. hehehehe Bet it sounds good!!!!
 
#28 ·
No, I don't have the upper air filter. and the O2 sensors are still hook up. Do I need to disconnect them, and would that require reprogramming the fuel system? I'm very new to the VV and still learning. Trying to read post on here to educate myself but not sure which way to go. Any help would be appreciated!!! Not a lot of money, but I do have tons of desire and willingness to learn.
 
#29 ·
With no upper air filter, no you shouldnt unless you getting alot of popping on decel but you can midigate that a little with your throttle roll off. Search popping and should find alot to read or start another thread if you like not to hijack this one into something else. If you do disconnect them, no repgrograming required. It richens up the fuel mix by putting your controller in a loop. I resolved about 95 of my popping but I do have the upper filter installed too so that was alot to blame for it. Safe riding and feel free to ask them questions!

Tim
 
#30 ·
Tips

Do the tips unbolt to get them off or do I have to cut them off ? Also do I have to cut the back of the muffler off to get to the location to drill the holes?
 
#32 ·
Do the tips unbolt to get them off or do I have to cut them off ? Also do I have to cut the back of the muffler off to get to the location to drill the holes?
3 10mm bolts remove the chrome tip. Then hacksaw the decretive flange off about 1" from back of muffler. Drill holes and bolt tips back on. You still have the center baffle ring but have opened up the 2nd half the muffler. It is a nice fix that gives some good tone yet still quite. Pm me if yu have questions
 
#33 ·
I guess, I'm dense

I'm still not understanding the various steps required to do this mod. Do you happen to have pictures of the various steps as you did them.

US Navy Retired EMCS
2011 Black and Silver VV
 
#35 ·
I'm still not understanding the various steps required to do this mod. Do you happen to have pictures of the various steps as you did them.

US Navy Retired EMCS
2011 Black and Silver VV
No but would be glad to walk you through the parts your getting stuck on.
 
#36 ·
Drilled my exhaust last night. Sound ok not very loud at all. Cutting the tips off the mufflers is a pain in the A.. For sure ! Unhooked the on sensors and no popping. Thanks for the help Tim.


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#37 ·
Good to hear. No problem bud. Sad ridin
 
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