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Old 11-03-2012, 05:58 PM   #11
Marius
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ok, so I have the bike appart at the moment. The things I found so far (2100 total miles on the bike).

1) Saying the TB was dirty would be an understatement. When I initially sprayed clearer on the blades, it seeped right through the dirt on the edge of the tb blades and the wall and ran straight down into the chamber. That is very different from the Witchdoctor video where he sprays the cleaner fluid and it sits there for a while. So now mine are clean and also close completely like they should.


2) This part pisses me off. I read about cracked caps, but didn't know what people were talking about. Now I do, see pic below. There is my 2nd source of vacuum leak (besides the one caused by dirt between the blades and the tb walls in part 1) And I have to ask... WTF was victory thinking?! There are two vacuum ports capped off with rubber on the bike that are used for nothing! If this isn't a "genius" (read sleezy) way to get you running back to the dealer for service, I don't know what is! I'm filling the end part of those ports with jb weld or gorila glue and throwing these rubber caps away. This is the dumbest thing I have ever seen!
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Last edited by Marius; 11-03-2012 at 06:05 PM.
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Old 11-03-2012, 10:08 PM   #12
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Hope I'm missing something on the TB cleaning as I have not seen the video but want to make sure you did open the butterfly's and clean the TB throats out. I had a throttle lock so was easy to lock open and clean with sea foam.

Answer to the rubber cap question is the ports are for the California emissions package. However, they do suck as many folks have probs with them. Except those in CA. :-)

After cleaning the TBs good if your idle is not 1k +\- 50 the adjustment screw is just behind the front TB coming in from the left top side.

Safe ridin

Tim
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Old 11-03-2012, 10:45 PM   #13
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Default Vacuum ports, gauges?

Could those ports be used to hook vacuum gauges up to? Could you try a higher quality of vacuum caps? Or you could just use a good quality piece of fuel injection fuel hose and go from port to port just interconnect them.
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Old 11-04-2012, 12:57 AM   #14
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I did open the blades to clean out the throat, it was so black everywhere it was almost nausiating. The point of my story was just to show how bad the TB had gotten in 2000 miles, that the blades couldn't even close completely because of the dirt.

I went to autozone and got me some caps. 3/16 seemed to fit best, but everything on this bike is metric, so I'm sure the right metric size would fit better (whatever it is). I only saw 2 ports that are capped off. Are there more that I maybe didn't see?

I just realized also, my "fast idle" leaver doesn't actually do anything. The idle just stays where it is. I'm thinking now, that might be a sign that something needs adjustment.

And the list grows longer...
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Old 11-04-2012, 04:44 AM   #15
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http://www.fastenal.com/web/home.ex these places are popping up all over and carry a lot of metric nuts and bolts. Cheaper than going to the dealer for bolts. If they do not have it in stock, order time is like next day. Recommend this place to every do it yourselfer..
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Old 11-04-2012, 08:17 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marius View Post
I did open the blades to clean out the throat, it was so black everywhere it was almost nausiating. The point of my story was just to show how bad the TB had gotten in 2000 miles, that the blades couldn't even close completely because of the dirt.

I went to autozone and got me some caps. 3/16 seemed to fit best, but everything on this bike is metric, so I'm sure the right metric size would fit better (whatever it is). I only saw 2 ports that are capped off. Are there more that I maybe didn't see?
No, that is the only two and I didnt intend to short sheet your mech ability, just wanted to make sure you got it all at once. If you don't have a service manual check BBoB's page, I think he has up to 08 electronic. http://www.victoryforums.com/showthread.php?t=10829
Just out of curiosity in relation to another thread I was reading, how long did it take to get the 2K on it or was it from the previous owner. On my 04 8/10K you can tell a difference and I clean the TB's. Just curious...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Marius View Post
I just realized also, my "fast idle" leaver doesn't actually do anything. The idle just stays where it is. I'm thinking now, that might be a sign that something needs adjustment.
Beyond the cable being broken, fast idle if I understood right from other threads, should be bars turned to the left with 1/4 freeplay then it kicks in. Adjustment should be the freeplay at left turn only adjusted on the bar. After cleaning your TB's shouldnt need much. If you go by Lloyds start up recommendation I think its at 50 or above 15-30 seconds at 15-1800 upon ignition and 30-45 secs below 50. Once warmed up, should have an idle at 1K +/50. Not familiar if you have a Tach or not but if not should NOT be loping. This ain't your coworkers HD.. Seriously, someone asked me how to figure RPM without the tach and I don't know unless do the speedo upgrade.. Someone with your model may help if so.

Only thing left to check after your running again is the TB body boots as was mentioned earlier. WD 40 should reveal either boot leaking.

Hope this helps and your back on the road quickly...

Tim
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Last edited by Tims_04V92TC; 11-04-2012 at 08:22 AM.
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Old 11-04-2012, 02:06 PM   #17
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Thanks bud. I really appreciate all your input on this. After cleaning the TBs and changing the caps I put the tank back on and started the bike for a little bit. The idle was a bit lopy, right around 1000rpms and a quick blip of the throttle made her kill. Is this normal for a cold bike to do, or still a symptom of a vacuum leak somewhere? A gradual increase in throttle seemed fine. I know I need to adjust the fast idle leever free play, like you said. So I'm still not sure if I fixed the issue.There's barely any gas in the tank too, which could cause low fuel pressure. it was getting late so I had to shut her down. Today it's raining so I have to wait till it stops. Always something.

Going to use this time to get carb cleaner so I can check for any more vacuum leaks when I get back to tinkering with her. We'll see if anything else comes up.
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Old 11-04-2012, 07:16 PM   #18
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Took it for a 10 mile ride. THe bike starts quicker and seems to have better manners and low end power seems better, but when i cruise and pull in the clutch the rpms still bounce between 1100-1300 and settle at 1500 idle at a red light. So, this isn't over yet....

Next things I'm gonna try:

1) adjust the high idle lever according to spec
2) Look around the motor for another vacuum leak with a card cleaner can.
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Old 11-05-2012, 12:25 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marius View Post
.....The idle was a bit lopy, right around 1000rpms and a quick blip of the throttle made her kill. Is this normal for a cold bike to do, or still a symptom of a vacuum leak somewhere? A gradual increase in throttle seemed fine.
No problem, I know it is aggrivating not finding the problem... Trust me! Ansewer here is no, it is not normal. You should be able to ride with a couple minute warmup. Blasting the throttle may get you some hesitation but your asking for other problems doing that before the engine is warmed evenly... Seen your post in another thread you found a leak on the TB's using carb cleaner.. Just following up here incase someone else reads this 6 months from now... At least you know WHERE it is... If you didnt download the service manual, BBob has an electronic copy.

Good luck and safe ridin

Tim
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2004 V92 TC - S1 flash, level 1 slip-on, Ness big sucker K&N, ISO Grips, 4x1.5 Highway Hawg Risers, extra chrome (never too much), JM 2k CB 4' antena, Mustang seat, HD Front TS & Lowers, OD Pulley

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Old 11-05-2012, 09:49 AM   #20
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You are absolutely right, and I had all intentions of updating this thread.

I sprayed carb cleaner around the intake and when I sprayed directly at the rubber intake adaptor this caused the bike to nearly shut off. I did this with the tank still on the bike so it was hard to tell where exactly this rubber piece had cracker but I was able to see frayed/ragged cuts around the upper ring part. When I get the replacement part and take the old one off I will be able to see better.

I downloaded the manual from Bbob's links so you can see the part in question is in the red box below :
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