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Old 09-25-2012, 07:33 PM   #1
Merpwood
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Default How to remove exhaust

Hey all,

I picked up some steel on my rear tire the other week and need to take it into the tire shop to switch it out. I went to remove the axle and, of course, the retaining nut is on the other side of the exhaust.

I'm sure they do this on purpose lol. So any tricks for removing the exhaust I should know about? Sadly I haven't found a service manual around anywhere to buy or download, I will be ordering one, but would like to get this done this week for a long ride this weekend as fall is coming in quickly up here. =/ booo

Any help would be great thanks
Merp
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Old 11-07-2012, 11:17 AM   #2
WildBlue
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One of the members around here has links to some service manuals in his signature block--don't have it bookmarked, but a quick search in the Hammer forum for service manual should turn up something. If not, let me know via PM and I can probably help you when I get home tonight.

EDIT
Found the post for you...

Last edited by WildBlue; 11-07-2012 at 12:20 PM.
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Old 11-07-2012, 11:50 AM   #3
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On my bike the right side axle adjuster plate is slotted and it comes off... then you pull the axle out from the left side.

Push the axle to the right. Pop the little plate off. take some sandpaper and de-burr the end of the axle, clean it good, and it will slide right through the bearings.

Pictures are kinda blurry, but you can see the slotted plate...



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heads, S&S .495 cams, valve springs & retainers, Torque Tubes intake, stock throttle
bodies, RPW Thor pipe, Lloydz ECU, PC-III, Rivera Pro clutch spring, 31 tooth pulley w/Buell belt.
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Old 11-07-2012, 02:46 PM   #4
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Sorry to hijack this post, but what gearing are you running half_crazy? I can tell your adjuster is forward quite a bit and considering a gearing change myself.
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Old 11-07-2012, 03:06 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lunaticrider View Post
Sorry to hijack this post, but what gearing are you running half_crazy? I can tell your adjuster is forward quite a bit and considering a gearing change myself.
31 tooth front pulley (stock is 33) and a belt from a Buell 1125R (145 teeth vs stock 147).



Shorter gearing by about 7%. So what would have been a cruising rpm of 2500 is now 2675 rpm.
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2006 Kingpin
110 Cubic Inches -- S&S stroker crank/Lloydz Big Bore, 11:1 Wiseco pistons, massaged stock
heads, S&S .495 cams, valve springs & retainers, Torque Tubes intake, stock throttle
bodies, RPW Thor pipe, Lloydz ECU, PC-III, Rivera Pro clutch spring, 31 tooth pulley w/Buell belt.
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Old 11-07-2012, 04:19 PM   #6
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Great info, I'm new to the belt drive and pulley thing. Coming off a sport bike I had numerous sprockets/chain combos kicking around (even more for my dirt bike). I asked my dealer when I bought the bike about pulleys and belts knowing he didn't know shit about what I trying to say and he said "your stuck with what it comes with". I figured stock gearing would not be optimal and is usually set to pass the sound regulations.
Anyone out there making aftermarket pulleys at a decent price?
Again sorry for the hijack...
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Old 11-07-2012, 10:46 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lunaticrider View Post
Anyone out there making aftermarket pulleys at a decent price?
Not sure about the new bikes. Talk to Conquest Customs or Lloydz. I got mine from Turbotec. Not cheap...
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2006 Kingpin
110 Cubic Inches -- S&S stroker crank/Lloydz Big Bore, 11:1 Wiseco pistons, massaged stock
heads, S&S .495 cams, valve springs & retainers, Torque Tubes intake, stock throttle
bodies, RPW Thor pipe, Lloydz ECU, PC-III, Rivera Pro clutch spring, 31 tooth pulley w/Buell belt.

Last edited by half_crazy; 11-07-2012 at 10:52 PM.
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