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Old 11-26-2012, 05:26 PM   #21
Tims_04V92TC
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Originally Posted by lawnstriper View Post
Thanks for the reply Tim , will look at that as soon as deer season is over. Hopefully warmer then but I doubt it. THINK SPRING!!!!!!


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NP, like I said, if you find the dust it's a REALTIME indicator you have a loose drive nut which would explain your screech and vibe. Shouldnt have to pull the cover, I was able to easily look up with a good like and see it. If you need help, give a shoult...

Safe ridin, errr ah... Hunting.. lol...
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2004 V92 TC - S1 flash, level 1 slip-on, Ness big sucker K&N, ISO Grips, 4x1.5 Highway Hawg Risers, extra chrome (never too much), JM 2k CB 4' antena, Mustang seat, HD Front TS & Lowers, OD Pulley

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Old 11-26-2012, 05:35 PM   #22
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So if it is dusty , that means nut is loose ? And if I tighten it and locktite it , it will stop that noise?


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Old 11-26-2012, 06:23 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by lawnstriper View Post
So if it is dusty , that means nut is loose ? And if I tighten it and locktite it , it will stop that noise?


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Yup, that red dust is a tall tale sign the nut has backed off. I could actually get my finger up in there and move it..

In the service manual to retoruqe an 01 at 10K I believe, mine is 15K but I called BS on that... Not a hard task to handle at all. hardest part is finding the socket for the drive pulley. Can't remember the size but if you need to do this task will include in the procedures..

Yes, will stop the noise and also keep the pulley form coming off.. I don't know how long it takes the dust to appear to the point the pulley slips off but lets not find out. Again, this may NOT be your problem but if you have 10K on the bike and it has not been done, its worth checking out. It would explain the sound and vibe.
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2004 V92 TC - S1 flash, level 1 slip-on, Ness big sucker K&N, ISO Grips, 4x1.5 Highway Hawg Risers, extra chrome (never too much), JM 2k CB 4' antena, Mustang seat, HD Front TS & Lowers, OD Pulley

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Last edited by Tims_04V92TC; 11-26-2012 at 06:27 PM.
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Old 11-26-2012, 06:32 PM   #24
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Yeah bike is closer to 15k , speedo replaced at just over 9k and new one is at close to 4500 so you may be right on with your assessment


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Old 12-03-2012, 02:32 PM   #25
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Ok , couldn't see any dust , took cover off anyway and sure enough the nut is loose, but , it can't back off because it has a keeper ring attached to the drive pulley . So , although it is not tight it can't come off completely, cause it can only turn maybe an eighth of an inch either way till it hits the keeper ring.

That is a big ole nut , 1-7/8 is what it measures across .

How can you torque that without removing the exhaust , or do you have to?


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Old 12-03-2012, 03:04 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by lawnstriper View Post
Ok , couldn't see any dust , took cover off anyway and sure enough the nut is loose, but , it can't back off because it has a keeper ring attached to the drive pulley . So , although it is not tight it can't come off completely, cause it can only turn maybe an eighth of an inch either way till it hits the keeper ring.

That is a big ole nut , 1-7/8 is what it measures across .

How can you torque that without removing the exhaust , or do you have to?


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Well don't let that blasted ring fool you into thinking it wont back off! Ask me how I know.. lol.. Let me just say, it is VERY possible with it installed correctly to back off to the point the pulley will slip.

Yes, I standard 3/4 drive 1 7/8 socket will fit that. I found it at Harbor Freight.

No, you do not have to remove the exhaust. Loosen the front and rear exhaust pipes from the cans (I actually removed the nuts). I don't remember what your bike looked like but I thought you had side pipes so that should enable you to move the pipes out/in to get the cover of. It's up to you if you loosed the rear axle to remove the pulley and inspect the splines. Remove the nut, clean the threads and reinstall using red locktite. Torque is in the owners manual, or should be. I reinstalled my coverplate MINUS the lower hex screw so I could easily pull it back off and reinspect. Let me know if you need anything else on this, still pretty fresh in the memory.

Tim
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Old 12-03-2012, 03:14 PM   #27
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Thanks for the help Tim . My exhaust is stock back to the slip ons . I managed to get the cover off without loosening the exhaust . Took retainer ring off and took nut off with my fingers . I looked at sprocket and it doesn't appear to have moved in the least so I am just going to locktite the nut and re tighten . Don't have an owners manual . Gotta ask previous owner if he has it still , so don't know torque spec.


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Old 12-03-2012, 04:16 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lawnstriper View Post
Thanks for the help Tim . My exhaust is stock back to the slip ons . I managed to get the cover off without loosening the exhaust . Took retainer ring off and took nut off with my fingers . I looked at sprocket and it doesn't appear to have moved in the least so I am just going to locktite the nut and re tighten . Don't have an owners manual . Gotta ask previous owner if he has it still , so don't know torque spec.


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Im sure the pulley can't be too differnt. here is mine. Also including the link to polaris to create a user account and download the user manual PDF.

Tim

Inspect Drive Sprocket and Sprocket Nut
1. Remove the drive sprocket cover.
Notice On somemodels youmay have to remove portions of the exhaust systemto access all of the drive sprocket
cover screws (see the Victory Service Manual or an authorized Victory dealer).
2. Inspect drive sprocket and sprocket nut for wear or damage. Make sure the sprocket nut is tight.
3. If the sprocket nut is loose, remove the sprocket nut retainer screws and the retainer.
4. Remove the sprocket nut. Replace with a new sprocket nut if necessary.
5. Clean the output shaft threads and the sprocket nut threads.
6. Apply a few drops of Loctite Thread Locker #262 or equivalent to the output shaft threads.
7. Apply the rear brake and tighten the drive sprocket nut.
Torque: 125 ft-lbs (169 Nm)
8. Install the nut retainer and the retainer screws. Rotate the retainer plate clockwise and hold it against the nut
when retainer screws are tightened.
Torque: 85 in-lbs (10 Nm)
Notice The nut retainer can be installed inmany positions and on either side. If you cannot align the mounting
holes, tighten the sprocket nut slightly and install the nut retainer.

Polaris:
http://www.purepolaris.com/en-us/Vic...rs-manual.aspx
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2004 V92 TC - S1 flash, level 1 slip-on, Ness big sucker K&N, ISO Grips, 4x1.5 Highway Hawg Risers, extra chrome (never too much), JM 2k CB 4' antena, Mustang seat, HD Front TS & Lowers, OD Pulley

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Old 12-03-2012, 05:37 PM   #29
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Attachment 8947 just do it right and it will look right..
LMAO nice of you to help him out.
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Old 12-03-2012, 07:20 PM   #30
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I had the same loose sprocket nut on my V92TC when I bought it this past spring. Beside using 262 (red) locktite on the nut,I also used one of the locktite retaining compounds (green - can't remember the number) on the splines between the shaft and pulley. Retaining compounds are designed to fill the space between parts such as where a bearing has wallowed out its housing. There was a fair amount of backlash from where the shaft had fretted away material from the pulley spline. My concern was that the nut only pulls the pulley onto the shaft. With increased backlash between the splines, it would be possible for alternating acceleration / deceleration to let the pulley begin to slip behind the nut - then it's back to square one again.

On a technical note, the red dust is the result of "fretting". Fretting occurs when two pieces of metal are able to move against each other while under pressure. Microscopic particles of metal are ripped from the surface and they quickly oxidize. Since the pulley is steel (iron) you are seeing tiny rust particles.

I've put about 3k miles on it since the fix and recently pulled the cover and that pulley is just a tight as new.

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