Since replacing my battery I haven't had any issues with the bike stalling when blipping the throttle. I did notice that the positive terminal was loose when I was removing the old battery and I'm starting to believe this was the culprit. Check you battery connections. I'm curious to know if yours are loose or not.
I've intentionally avoided turning this thread into a debate on riding technique which is why (until now) I've mainly left the bad habit comments alone. The bad habit comments are all opinion based and have no bearing on the mechanics of the bike. However, the mechanics of the bike for whatever reason seem to suggest that blipping the throttle isn't effective on Vics. This doesn't make blipping a bad habit though.
1. Why does a 2011 require a new battery? Warranty?
2. There is no reason to blip at low rpms, but I'm sure I've done it out of habit. In fact, I've blipped my XR from day 1 and never had an issue with it. I do have the Stage 1 pipes, filter, and map.
3. Why do you suppose a loose connection would only cause this during a blip? Why not during normal acceleration or deceleration?
4. I'll put your experience and Goatlocker's post in my back pocket, just in case I'm ever bit with the problem. It is simply not possible to ride quickly and smoothly without doing it.
This is a well known and established issue on the X bikes. CR and I have been trying educate as many folks as we can over the last couple of years. On a new bike the ECM is learning as we ride but if the battery terminal connections are loose; this can throw everything off so those need to be the first thing to check.
When my XC was new it died a few times when I blipped it so I learned to be more conscious of when and how much I did it. After a while the ECM learned that the engine was not running WOT with the clutch pulled. After a while I could blip to my hearts content without it dying. If the bike gets a new flash like a Stage 1 or a re-flash of the original; it will likely need to be taught all over again. A little patience and making sure the battery connections are not the culprit will make you and your bike happy riding buddies again.
BTW; I highly recommend the star washers for the battery terminals and a liberal coating of dielectric grease. The dielectric grease also works great in your plug wires and coaxial terminals for cable going to and from your tv. Actually, if you live near the ocean or just a humid climate, it's exceptionally good for all your connections that routinely get separated like the fuel pump when removing the tank or headlight and signal wires when removing the fairing. The more we can do to minimize electrical problems; the better.
battery Warranty no such thing. Up to dealer if they want to.
After you clean terminals and add star washer spray terminals with hair spray they will "never" get dirty then. Even do your car.
If victory would go to a flexible battery cable like Harley has our cables would never come loose.
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2008 vision
35 different model bikes over the years
Mpls,Mn. Please add your city and state after the model of bike you have. Click user pc at top of page and then far left click edit signature. Thanks
This is a well known and established issue on the X bikes. CR and I have been trying educate as many folks as we can over the last couple of years. On a new bike the ECM is learning as we ride but if the battery terminal connections are loose; this can throw everything off so those need to be the first thing to check.
When my XC was new it died a few times when I blipped it so I learned to be more conscious of when and how much I did it. After a while the ECM learned that the engine was not running WOT with the clutch pulled. After a while I could blip to my hearts content without it dying. If the bike gets a new flash like a Stage 1 or a re-flash of the original; it will likely need to be taught all over again. A little patience and making sure the battery connections are not the culprit will make you and your bike happy riding buddies again.
BTW; I highly recommend the star washers for the battery terminals and a liberal coating of dielectric grease. The dielectric grease also works great in your plug wires and coaxial terminals for cable going to and from your tv. Actually, if you live near the ocean or just a humid climate, it's exceptionally good for all your connections that routinely get separated like the fuel pump when removing the tank or headlight and signal wires when removing the fairing. The more we can do to minimize electrical problems; the better.
I think you're right on the money that a loose battery cable is a contributing factor. My cable was definitely loose and the battery being weak was just adding to the problem IMO. The battery was two years old as the bike was purchased back in 2010 as soon as the 11 models were released. The battery was two years old with 15K miles on it, so not that unusual for it to require replacement. Today I was blipping the throttle every-time I down shifted and it didn't stall once. As far as I'm concerned the problem has been resolved by replacing the battery and ensuring the cables are good and snug. I'll pick up some star washers and Di-electric grease tomorrow.
I appreciate the response BBob.
R/Greg
Last edited by newoldrider; 12-09-2012 at 07:48 PM.
I was at HD picking up the hardware to secure my saddlebags and was about to pick up a couple of star washers. I realized that I don't really know what size I need. Does anybody hear know what size in metric or sae that I need? Thanks.
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2011 Cross Roads Sunset Red
OEM short windshield, passenger backrest, crash bars, saddle bag bars, heated grips, vinyl closeouts. WD lay down licence plate.
I just eyeball them and pick the size I think will fit but the bolt takes a 10mm wrench if that helps. All motorcycle batteries use the same size wrench; even Harley's. They should know what size star washers you would need. I'm guessing but I think a 3/8 inner diameter would work.
Everyone seems to be getting a little too technical. Mine was doing the same thing and I had the dealer check it over under warranty and nothing. Then while I was talking to him in the parking lot, we noticed that while rolling the throttle, it was sticking. I purchased some aftermarket grips and have not had an issue with it since. The problem was when you blipped the throttle, it wasn't rolling off all the way and flooding out and dying. Problem solved.
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2011 Cross Country w/Trunk
Silver/White
Tall Windshield
Drivers Backrest
Lower Winglets
Hi-Perf. Air Filter
Hiway Pegs
D&D Pipes (Slash/Chrome/Wrapped)
Dipstick Thermostat
Stage 1 Flash
Mean City Cycle Seat Mod
Fort Rucker, AL
2004 Victory Kingpin
Big Blue
Little Blue
Actually, if you live near the ocean or just a humid climate, it's exceptionally good for all your connections that routinely get separated like the fuel pump when removing the tank or headlight and signal wires when removing the fairing. The more we can do to minimize electrical problems; the better.
2004 Honda Shadow Aero 750
Rhonda
Linear Mode
