Ahhhh yes i did forget.... i used Vic the 1st 2 then went to Amsoil 10-40 (liked), tried Mobile 1, 20-50 (did not like) now using Castrol Semi syn i think 10-40 (Like so far), if it stays running and sounding good i will stick with that......
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Triad, NC
Ridin A 2011 Ness XC #117
Ahhhh yes i did forget.... i used Vic the 1st 2 then went to Amsoil 10-40 (liked), tried Mobile 1, 20-50 (did not like) now using Castrol Semi syn i think 10-40 (Like so far), if it stays running and sounding good i will stick with that......
I have a sample at www.blackstone-labs.com right now for Rotella 15W-40 with 5000 miles on it. I did a sample with that oil at 2500 miles and it was like new.
While I appreciate knowing if the oil I am running is breaking down or if there is metal in it, what does the lab test show on HOW it protects the engine? Perhaps I'm missing the point.
I ran Vic oil w/ Vic filter for my first 5K, then switched to Rotella 5W-40 w/ Purolator Classic filter for the next 10K. In the last 4K, I've experienced slipping out of gear at high speeds. Clutch issue? I don't know but I've invested in two oil changes of Castrol 20-40 semi-synthic with K&N filters and see if that makes any change.
Oil, fuel, etc. makes me but I'll keep searching for a combo for me.
While I appreciate knowing if the oil I am running is breaking down or if there is metal in it, what does the lab test show on HOW it protects the engine? Perhaps I'm missing the point.
I ran Vic oil w/ Vic filter for my first 5K, then switched to Rotella 5W-40 w/ Purolator Classic filter for the next 10K. In the last 4K, I've experienced slipping out of gear at high speeds. Clutch issue? I don't know but I've invested in two oil changes of Castrol 20-40 semi-synthic with K&N filters and see if that makes any change.
Oil, fuel, etc. makes me but I'll keep searching for a combo for me.
Ride safe.
They all protect the engines. How many engine failures do you see on anything that has its oil changed once in a while?
All these Vics pop out of second gear when getting on it now and then. I seriously doubt that the oil has anything to do with it. Vic oil is the only thing that's ever been in mine (only because I get discounts at the shop) and it happened to me once as recently as today. And it's happened to me on multiple Victories.
Here's something that may bring you some piece of mind.
Keep in mind that all this stuff is refined in the same places. The OEMs just add their own additives that may be a little better here or there than the next guy, but if you changed it from time to time, you needn't get too worked up over it.
They all protect the engines. How many engine failures do you see on anything that has its oil changed once in a while?
All these Vics pop out of second gear when getting on it now and then. I seriously doubt that the oil has anything to do with it. Vic oil is the only thing that's ever been in mine (only because I get discounts at the shop) and it happened to me once as recently as today. And it's happened to me on multiple Victories.
Here's something that may bring you some piece of mind.
Keep in mind that all this stuff is refined in the same places. The OEMs just add their own additives that may be a little better here or there than the next guy, but if you changed it from time to time, you needn't get too worked up over it.
So your link basically says that my Rotella 15w-40 at $12 a four qt jug is as good as the heavily advertised $8.00+ a qt oil. I knew I was doing the right thing buying the Rotella and now buying the Rotella T6 synthetic is more peace of mind than anything riding here in Phoenix with 110+ temps.
I give the oil company's enough at the pump so why I my right mind would I want to give them more when I don't have to.
All these Vics pop out of second gear when getting on it now and then. I seriously doubt that the oil has anything to do with it. Vic oil is the only thing that's ever been in mine (only because I get discounts at the shop) and it happened to me once as recently as today. And it's happened to me on multiple Victories.
I'm getting used to the second gear pop out, it is the sixth gear slip that I'm struggling with. I opted to change my oil as some I've talked to, when they ran full synthetic, had similar issues. When they ran a semi-synthetic, the issue disappeared. I hope to have the same results.
About your article, one thing to keep in mind. Oils have improved since that report. Some long distance riders I know will run their oil 10K miles before changing it. That is primarily when they are covering 10K in a week but 10K just the same.
Ride safe.
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2011 CrossRoads
nascar6 pipes, PCV w/ AT, Llyodz performance filter, Llyod's timing wheel (set +4) and various other visual do dads.
I'm getting used to the second gear pop out, it is the sixth gear slip that I'm struggling with. I opted to change my oil as some I've talked to, when they ran full synthetic, had similar issues. When they ran a semi-synthetic, the issue disappeared. I hope to have the same results.
I had mine slip out of 6th once too. But I think it was because I shifted twice from fourth without letting the clutch our for 5th. I've never done that before or since.
Quote:
Originally Posted by vagabondjpm
About your article, one thing to keep in mind. Oils have improved since that report. Some long distance riders I know will run their oil 10K miles before changing it. That is primarily when they are covering 10K in a week but 10K just the same.
Well if the NY cabs were going 6k miles between changes over and over back then I reckon 10k once in a while is nothing major. Especially doing it all in a week.
I do wonder about oils "improving" a lot though. Our refineries are as old as hills and even the synthetic base stocks have been around a long time now too. The big difference in oils are the additives and I don't think one needs to be too worried about the quality of detergents and anti-corrosion additives over the course of a week.
From other articles I've read, the major difference between MC and auto oils is the amount of zinc they add. As I recall, zinc acts as the last line of defense when the oil is hot and being used at very high rpms. I'm pretty sure that zinc hasn't changed over the years.
The only thing I know for sure is that Castrol synthetic auto oil always seemed to make my bikes shift the nicest. I have no idea why and I can't seem to find it in the right viscosity anymore.
but I'll keep searching for a combo for me.
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