On my new Tour the owners manual says:
Radio - 25 amp fuse
Accessory (under right side cover) 20 amp
12 - Volt Storage Compartment Outlet (under electrical cover above battery) 10 amp
The bike has 3 outlets. OK, just guessing here, but I'll bet they are saying the storage compartment above battery is the lower fairing on left where ipod connector is. - 10amp - makes sense for small items, ipod, phones....
...under right side storage compartment... I'll guess actually feeds the Tour pack ( wouldn't that be left? Is it facing bike's headlight or as you sit on it?)
... so, and follow me here please, is the Outlet in the fairing coming off the 25 amp... or do you think it is wired with the 10 amp in the lower?
Reason I ask is I use a heated vest for winter, use to wire straight in to battery, but that was when the battery was under the seat. I can plug it into the accessory outlet, and want to be sure not to overload the outlet.
Anyone know the schematics on this and is it safe to use the fairing outlet, even with all the electronics, radio, and possible GPS?
Would it be better to tap into the accessory side cover and would that affect warranty?
2012 Black XC Tour, HELI bars,
1.5" lowering kit (not the crap kind), Closeup Seat, Heli bars, Reverse, ATS, IAV, PC5, RPWs, m.o.u.s.e...
Mike, I am definitely not an electrician, but have had outlets for heated gear installed on many of my bikes, including my XC.
Heated gear draws a lot of amps.Plus, even though I have heated grips, I have heted gloves for when it is really cold and I will be riding all day (also have heated pants). If you haven't already, check the power requirements of the gear you use.
I have always been told to use a relay, which is what we did on my XC. Essentially direct to battery, but turns off with the key. We added a new power socket in the left sidecase (left when sitting on bike) and added a rheostadt on the "cheese" so I can easily adjust the heat while riding. The power cord itself just goes down from the jacket maybe 8" to the plug (on my heated gear, the power cords are on the left).
We added a new power socket in the left sidecase (left when sitting on bike) and added a rheostadt on the "cheese" so I can easily adjust the heat while riding. The power cord itself just goes down from the jacket maybe 8" to the plug (on my heated gear, the power cords are on the left).
Just a thought.
Found this thread while searching for electrical information.
Do you have any pictures of your rheostat installed on your cheese wedge?
I use a TourMaster heated liner (although not as much as on previous bikes -- those 1,731 CCs put out a lot of heat on their own). That liner, on max setting, takes c. 7 amps. The dash cigarette-lighter-style socket has no problem dealing with that. Since before purchasing my XCT, I already had a coiled cord for the liner (coax on the liner side, Powerlet male on the other end), I bought this for the XCT: http://www.powerlet.com/product/ciga...socket-cable/3 . I plug my coil cord into that extension, drape it over the handlebar by the clutch-side controls, and plug that into the dash. Works fine, no problems blowing fuses. (I plan to add a Powerlet through the plastic of the left side-cover, but I haven't gotten around to that yet.)
The official specs -- http://www.victorymotorcycles.com/en...specifications -- say that the XCT has "48 amps max output." Unfortunately, there's no mention of how much is already in use by the base bike. It also doesn't show an RPM vs. alternator chart. For instance, my Suzuki 650 Burgman scooter could handle my heated vest/liner and gloves just fine... except at idle, when my voltmeter would drop precipitously. So, I changed out the two 35-watt halogen bulbs in my Motolights to 5-watt LEDs, and that pretty much fixed the problem.
The only way to really tell whether you're running a deficit is to use an amp meter. Barring that, the Vics seem to have plenty of juice to spare to run heated gear, so I wouldn't worry about it.