Beware factory hard lowers - Victory Forums - Victory Motorcycle Forum
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-22-2012, 11:19 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
gamewarden's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Centreville, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 367
Garage
Default Beware factory hard lowers

I have a 2011 with hard lowers and the lower fairing air deflectors. I have had these on since last fall no problems. Out riding today and I noticed paint being rubbed off where the air deflectors have started rubbing on the hard lowers. This just started so I assume the hard lowers have moved enough to start making contact. I checked nothing is loose. I did loosen up the lowers to try and get more clearance between these two parts without much luck. I only have about one eight of an inch clearance. Possible safety issue if the two really jam up.

Ride safe

2011 custom Tequila Gold with Candy Orange accents, hard lowers and trunk, Ipod in lowers, HID and saddle bag bars, stage 1, heel shifter, front and back chrome fender guards,Garmin GPS, fairing wind deflectors, heated Gerbing hook up, Dain skull brake pedal, rear brake master and reservoir cover, custom cheese wedge cover, clutch cover, Witchdoctor cam covers, Wolo Bad Boy horn, heated grips and seat, Gorilla alarm, Vision rear engine brackett covers, Kruzer Caddy, WD exhaust tips.
gamewarden is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-22-2012, 02:30 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Calgary, AB & LHC, AZ
Posts: 133
Garage
Default

Interestingly I was at the demo rides this morning and they had 2xct's. One of them hit the lowers and one didn't. The dealer manager was looking at it and said it was a stop adjustment. I didn't look closely enough at it to see if that was plausable or bs.

Randy
2011 Cross Country "Mistress", Imperial Blue, Stage1
2010 Kingpin "Pin" Midnight Cherry
Botein is offline  
post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-22-2012, 02:56 PM
Lifetime Premium
 
BBob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: NW AZ
Posts: 12,766
Garage
Default

Definitely BS. The crash bar clamps holding the lowers on just moved around a bit. I noticed a difference between the two on mine when I removed them a while back.
BBob is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-22-2012, 06:13 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 566
Default

I put my factory lowers on myself over a year ago and I've had no issues with any pieces rubbing. The paint is fine and everything has held up well for over 16,000 km.

'15 Magnum X-1

'15 Kia Soul EV, blue and white

'13 Cadillac ATS, 2.0L Turbo Premium, blue with black interior

'12 Vegas 8 Ball - Arlen Ness HD cafe fairing, MBW LED signals, side-mount plate, factory cruise, heated grips, Corbin heated seat, more...

'10 Cross Country Tour, black, way too much to list now. Some videos are available here: My Youtube Channel Feed - SOLD!!! *sniff*

'01 Honda Magna, black, too much to list
Jagular is offline  
post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-22-2012, 09:00 PM
Senior Member
 
wspollack's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Niskayuna, NY
Posts: 2,069
Default

I picked up my XCT this March (and now have 4,000+ miles on it). A few days later, I noticed that - turning the handlebars to full lock (both directions) in the garage, with the bike on the sidestand - on one side the deflector was just touching the top of that lower fairing. This was the case, I believe, only if that clear deflector was in the fully closed-off position (which position puts the outer edge of the deflector closest to the lower fairing).

I took out the four bolts that let you access the three clamps, loosened the clamps a bit, forced/slid the lower fairing a tiny bit outward on the crash bar, and tightened the three clamps. I took out the four bolts on the good side, too, so I could make sure those three clamps were tight.

My opinion is that those clamps are too big for the diameter of the crash bars. That is, I think that you can tighten those clamp bolts probably until they break, and it won't do much. I think if the clamps were smaller, then you could tighten them more, such that they would actually clamp better - tighter - around the crash bar.

In any event, Victory is aware that the placement and adjustment of the lower fairings on the crash bars is critical. I've just scanned in the relevant page of the shop manual (which I ordered when I ordered the bike last January); check out the "WARNING" on that page. (Hope you can see it all right.)
Attached Images
File Type: jpg XCT Lowers.jpg (50.7 KB, 195 views)

Cheers,

Bill P.

2012 XCT (SOLD) : HeliBars; Centramatics; PC-V; Lloydz air filter; 11" Madstad; Rivco LED mirrors; Doran TPMS; Stebel horn; Motolights; CustomLED trunk flasher; KewlHeel shifter; CycleOps trunk rack; BeadRider seat; Vibranator bar ends; Passenger grab handles; Powerlet outlets; Handlebar RAM mount; RicZ laydown plate; Brukus SaddlebagSecure; 14" flexible antenna; RAM cupholder on trunk; shock Schrader valve relocation.

Gallery: http://www.billanddot.com/victory-xct/
wspollack is offline  
post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-22-2012, 09:32 PM
Lifetime Premium
 
BBob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: NW AZ
Posts: 12,766
Garage
Default

Thanks Bill! That was definitely a better and more in depth explanation than I provided.

When I removed the crash bars and lowers; I find it easiest to first separate the front from the back half of the lowers. That's when I saw one moved. I guess one fix for this would be to put some rubber or leather under the clamps so they could be tightened better, eh.

I'll be putting some 3M film on the front of the lowers while they are off for the Summer. Just makes it easier to apply. Might as well fix the clamps at the same time.
BBob is offline  
post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-22-2012, 10:10 PM
Senior Member
 
wspollack's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Niskayuna, NY
Posts: 2,069
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BBob View Post
Thanks Bill! That was definitely a better and more in depth explanation than I provided.

When I removed the crash bars and lowers; I find it easiest to first separate the front from the back half of the lowers. That's when I saw one moved. I guess one fix for this would be to put some rubber or leather under the clamps so they could be tightened better, eh.

I'll be putting some 3M film on the front of the lowers while they are off for the Summer. Just makes it easier to apply. Might as well fix the clamps at the same time.
Yeah, good idea, IMHO - some rubber or something like that between the clamps and bars sounds like a good plan to me.

Cheers,

Bill P.

2012 XCT (SOLD) : HeliBars; Centramatics; PC-V; Lloydz air filter; 11" Madstad; Rivco LED mirrors; Doran TPMS; Stebel horn; Motolights; CustomLED trunk flasher; KewlHeel shifter; CycleOps trunk rack; BeadRider seat; Vibranator bar ends; Passenger grab handles; Powerlet outlets; Handlebar RAM mount; RicZ laydown plate; Brukus SaddlebagSecure; 14" flexible antenna; RAM cupholder on trunk; shock Schrader valve relocation.

Gallery: http://www.billanddot.com/victory-xct/
wspollack is offline  
post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-23-2012, 05:22 PM
Senior Member
 
DakotaRider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Rapid City, SD
Posts: 229
Garage
Default

Thanks for the information from the manual. Does the manual say exactly where the clamps are to be positioned? I've had my lower fairing completely off in order to try and touch up scratches from a parking lot drop. When I put the inside portion back on, I found the clamps had been stretched somewhat or moved. I have done what I could to position the lower correctly so it didn't rub the wind deflector. I now have the fairing back on and positioned so the deflector isn't touching, but the entire fairing can still be moved if pulled on hard. I have ordered new clamps, but would like to know if there are specifics quoted in the manual which tells the clamps position prior to and after torquing them up. Or do they just "wing" it? Thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wspollack View Post
I picked up my XCT this March (and now have 4,000+ miles on it). A few days later, I noticed that - turning the handlebars to full lock (both directions) in the garage, with the bike on the sidestand - on one side the deflector was just touching the top of that lower fairing. This was the case, I believe, only if that clear deflector was in the fully closed-off position (which position puts the outer edge of the deflector closest to the lower fairing).

I took out the four bolts that let you access the three clamps, loosened the clamps a bit, forced/slid the lower fairing a tiny bit outward on the crash bar, and tightened the three clamps. I took out the four bolts on the good side, too, so I could make sure those three clamps were tight.

My opinion is that those clamps are too big for the diameter of the crash bars. That is, I think that you can tighten those clamp bolts probably until they break, and it won't do much. I think if the clamps were smaller, then you could tighten them more, such that they would actually clamp better - tighter - around the crash bar.

In any event, Victory is aware that the placement and adjustment of the lower fairings on the crash bars is critical. I've just scanned in the relevant page of the shop manual (which I ordered when I ordered the bike last January); check out the "WARNING" on that page. (Hope you can see it all right.)

Winston - USAF Retired

Current Bike:
2012 Victory - Pearl White XCT - Dutchess
Rapid City, SD
Previous Bikes:
02 Goldwing - Stream Silver Metallic GL-1800
07 Goldwing - Dark Orange Metallic GL-1800
DakotaRider is offline  
post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-24-2012, 09:33 AM
Senior Member
 
wspollack's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Niskayuna, NY
Posts: 2,069
Default

Winston,

What you see is what you get. Put another way: nope, they don't specify a location.

I just moved the lower in question as far outward as it would go. That is, the curve of the crash bars prevents moving theses things very far outward.

I've put that shop-manual page as a separate page of my web site, to make reading it easier: http://www.billanddot.com/xct-lowers.jpg . (Once that page has finished loading, in most browsers you just click anywhere on the pic and it will expand to full size; then, you can use the scroll bars to move around the pic.)

Cheers,

Bill P.

2012 XCT (SOLD) : HeliBars; Centramatics; PC-V; Lloydz air filter; 11" Madstad; Rivco LED mirrors; Doran TPMS; Stebel horn; Motolights; CustomLED trunk flasher; KewlHeel shifter; CycleOps trunk rack; BeadRider seat; Vibranator bar ends; Passenger grab handles; Powerlet outlets; Handlebar RAM mount; RicZ laydown plate; Brukus SaddlebagSecure; 14" flexible antenna; RAM cupholder on trunk; shock Schrader valve relocation.

Gallery: http://www.billanddot.com/victory-xct/
wspollack is offline  
post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-24-2012, 08:52 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Aurora, CO
Posts: 86
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wspollack View Post
In any event, Victory is aware that the placement and adjustment of the lower fairings on the crash bars is critical. I've just scanned in the relevant page of the shop manual (which I ordered when I ordered the bike last January); check out the "WARNING" on that page. (Hope you can see it all right.)
Note that there's a similar warning in the owners manual as well:

"Fairing Vents and Deflectors (CROSS COUNTRY TOUR)
An air vent and a deflector are located in each lower fairing. Use the vent handles to open and close the vents. Do not force a vent to open beyond the vent pivot stop. Move a deflector
inward or outward to adjust air flow.

WARNING! Failure to inspect deflector clearance after removing and reinstalling a fairing could result in steering interference, which could result in serious injury or death. After removing and reinstalling a fairing, always check for adequate steering clearance by moving the handlebars fully to the left and fully to the right, first with the deflectors open and again with the deflectors closed. Make any adjustments necessary to ensure steering
clearance."

2012 Cross Country Tour, Black "Raven"
2004 Honda Shadow 750 Rat Bike "Ratsy"
1998 Honda CBR 900RR "Beatrix" (as in Beatrix Kiddo)
Road Captain, Dirty Dozen MC, Denver Chapter
PakRat is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Victory Forums - Victory Motorcycle Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome