Shifting degrades when oil is hot - Victory Forums - Victory Motorcycle Forum
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post #1 of 140 (permalink) Old 03-09-2015, 08:53 PM Thread Starter
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Default Shifting degrades when oil is hot

My CCT is 2012 with 11,500 miles. Victory oil (kit) has 1000 miles on it. Ambient temps are 54f.

After the engine is has been freeway-running for 1/2 hr or so my shifting starts to degrade, namely the shifts get clunkier and my bike doesn't want to drop down into 1st gear. It will act as though it's bottomed out in N or 2nd and I have to give it a hard tap/kick down into 1st.

Clutch is adjusted properly.

I haven't owned this bike in hot weather and want to get on top of this before it comes.

Ideas?

Thx
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post #2 of 140 (permalink) Old 03-09-2015, 09:05 PM
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How fast are you going when trying to get into first? I only shift into first once I am stopped so I am not sure if my XC does this or not.... When I stop I go from 2nd to neutral then once I see the light changing I pull the clutch and tap down to first.
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post #3 of 140 (permalink) Old 03-09-2015, 09:11 PM Thread Starter
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How fast are you going when trying to get into first? I only shift into first once I am stopped so I am not sure if my XC does this or not.... When I stop I go from 2nd to neutral then once I see the light changing I pull the clutch and tap down to first.
I'd say maybe 5-10 or sometimes 15mph. MSF class guy insisted we be in 1st gear when we came to a stop.

Edjumacate me please
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post #4 of 140 (permalink) Old 03-09-2015, 09:38 PM
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i generally drop to first as im coming to a stop also

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post #5 of 140 (permalink) Old 03-09-2015, 10:13 PM
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Hmmm... I think we need more opinions.
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post #6 of 140 (permalink) Old 03-09-2015, 10:32 PM
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When coming to a stop, don't shift into 1st over10 mph. I find that most riders are afraid to rev their engines up to proper RPMs for running and shifting, thinking they are going to hurt their engine, but the opposite is true--not revving enough does harm to the engine. Do do not operate your bike under 2200 RPMs and upshift at 3K or above. You can not overrev your engine as there is an ignition cutout at about 5200 RPM. When working really trwisty roads, I'm at 3500 to 4500 RPM. Being at higher RPMs gives you much more throttle control and makes carving more enjoyable. For smoother and quieter shifts, preload the shifter. Also, adjust the shifter lower so that when your boot is under it, most of the slack is taken up.

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post #7 of 140 (permalink) Old 03-09-2015, 11:33 PM Thread Starter
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When coming to a stop, don't shift into 1st over10 mph. I find that most riders are afraid to rev their engines up to proper RPMs for running and shifting, thinking they are going to hurt their engine, but the opposite is true--not revving enough does harm to the engine. Do do not operate your bike under 2200 RPMs and upshift at 3K or above. You can not overrev your engine as there is an ignition cutout at about 5200 RPM. When working really trwisty roads, I'm at 3500 to 4500 RPM. Being at higher RPMs gives you much more throttle control and makes carving more enjoyable. For smoother and quieter shifts, preload the shifter. Also, adjust the shifter lower so that when your boot is under it, and most of the slack is taken up.
Splain that plz?
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post #8 of 140 (permalink) Old 03-09-2015, 11:40 PM
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Preloading is applying upward pressure on the shifter (not enough to force a shift) so that when you pull the clutch lever, the shifter slides up into the next gear smoothly and much quieter than if you don't preload.
BTW, I am using Rotella T-6 and liking it very much. No shifting problems and it holds up beyond 7K miles per an oil analysis.

2010 Midnight Cherry XR. 7Jurock, Lloydz AF, ATS, AFR tuned VFCIII, IAV, and T-6 and locally repacked pipes = big smiles. SOLD to a dear friend, so it's still in the family."
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Last edited by RICZ; 03-09-2015 at 11:46 PM.
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post #9 of 140 (permalink) Old 03-10-2015, 06:04 AM
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It took me nearly a year of riding my XR to figure out what RICZ is talking about when it comes to engine revs. I was used to my last two smaller cc jap bikes that would be screaming at 3k-4k rpms but not the Vic. Once I learned to shift at higher rpms and to hold the bike in a lower gear (usually 3rd) while riding the twisties it became a whole different bike to me.

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post #10 of 140 (permalink) Old 03-10-2015, 06:30 AM
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I have been having the same problem for maybe a year, but it does not happen all the time. The way I can explain the problem is that it takes more force than usual to downshift from 3-2 and 2-1 and there is kind of a crunch feeling... like you stepped on an acorn on concrete. Only happens when the bike is at normal operating temperature.

I find that rev matching helps. That is when you pull the clutch and increase rpms to match what is needed in the next gear down for the speed you are going before changing gears. It doesn't always fix the problem 100% but it sure makes it better.

Here is the strange thing. Sometimes if I park the bike for 5 minutes (like to get gas or whatever) the problem goes away and may not come back for a few days. Sometimes it sticks around for a few days and then will disappear for a week. I cannot find any correlation to old or new oil, ambient temperature, type of riding, traffic conditions, or anything else except it does not have the problem when the bike and oil are cold.

This has been bugging me for a while now. If someone figure out how to fix this problem that would be awesome. Just an explanation of whatís happening would be great.

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