Clutch friction zone - Victory Forums - Victory Motorcycle Forum
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-12-2012, 11:44 AM Thread Starter
Lifetime Premium
 
dentdave's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: south fl
Posts: 397
Default Clutch friction zone

I have almost 5000 miles on my 2012 CXT and little by little it seems that the friction zone keeps getting farther out toward the end of the clutch lever, I did have the 500 mile check up done and I have adjusted the clutch cable per instruction in the service manual. I dont seem to have any type of clutch slippage just that it engages when the clutch lever all the way out . Is this normal ?

I did work the clutch pretty hard on a Ride Like a Pro course a few months back, but it was like that before I took the class. Also took a 1500 mile trip to the mountains just last month riding two and all was fine. We ride two up almost all thetime.

Should I be concerned and take a trip to the dealer, or just keep on riding.

David
www.dentdave.com
2012 Cross Country Tour
IBA # 33520 - 1040 in 24, 04 / 2008
1036 in 24, 10 / 2014
Michelin Primacy Alpin PA3 ZP 195/55/16
dentdave is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-12-2012, 01:36 PM
Senior Member
 
visionjohnny's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: minnesota
Posts: 12,946
Default

Sounds like your dragging the clutch.
Only adjust your clutch when it has sat over night so it cold.
Readjust it you should have a 1/16th to a 1/8th one the silver end of the cable when you pull it out of the housing.

2008 Vision
Mpls, MN.

Please add your state and model of bike you have. Click user CP @ top of page and then far left click edit signature. Thanks
visionjohnny is offline  
post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-12-2012, 05:01 PM Thread Starter
Lifetime Premium
 
dentdave's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: south fl
Posts: 397
Default

Thank you Visionjohnny

I had adjusted it before by the book , I guess I wasn't leaving enough free play, pulling the cable out to adjust was easy .

I used a small flat head screwdriver I ground it down and measured it to be just a hair under 1/8 to use as a gage , loosen cable , stick new gage in and adjust to remove the slack .So for now on I will adjust it with my new measuring device , LOL.

Seriously thanks for the tip , sometimes things can be so smiple you over look them.

David
www.dentdave.com
2012 Cross Country Tour
IBA # 33520 - 1040 in 24, 04 / 2008
1036 in 24, 10 / 2014
Michelin Primacy Alpin PA3 ZP 195/55/16
dentdave is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-12-2012, 06:49 PM
Senior Member
 
ammo_umb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Utah
Posts: 2,699
Default

Yup what VJ said! Make sure you adjust by the book or you'll either have slippage or premature wear. Neither of these problems are good for your bike or your significant other...

Retired USAF, IYAAYAS!

2008 V-Star 1100 Custom Bobber project

2011 Crimson XR with Forged Highway Bars / Hard Bags / Passenger Backrest, Ness parts including Smooth Layback Plate Frame/Mount / Rad 3 Mirror / deep cut grips / drivers floorboards /shifter peg / brake peg / passenger pegs. Witchdoctor black rack, Lloydz filter / timing wheel / VFC III, 7Jurock windshield, Drag Specialties seat.
ammo_umb is offline  
post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-13-2012, 12:07 PM
Senior Member
 
BeoBob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: JAX FL
Posts: 659
Default

While we are talking about clutch problems I seem to have two issues…

First, when the bike is cold the clutch has a major surge in it. If you let it out just into the friction zone it will move the bike forward in equally spaced surges that are proportionate to the speed the bike is traveling. As the bike warms up this problem lessens but never goes away. Bike has done this since new.

Second, this thing has some major clutch drag even with the lever fully in. I can drive around a parking lot all day in first gear with the clutch pulled all the way in and the engine at idle. It comes to a stop easily if I use the brakes, but without them it would go forever. If I cut the engine it’s like I hit the brakes. I noticed this after maybe 3,000 miles and it seem to be getting worse. Maybe it’s been there since new and I just didn’t noticed it at first.

Neither of these seem right to me. I have played with the clutch cable adjustment, but it doesn’t make any difference at all. Old oil, fresh oil (Victory oil in the middle of the stick checked per manual), doesn’t make any difference.

Any thoughts?

2013 Cross Country Tour: Custom paint, stage 1 exhaust, Lloydz Hi-Flow air filter, cams (HOH-VM1-DR), timing gear (HOH-PTS), Power Commander V, Auto Tune module, Gustafson flip shield, OEM passenger backrest with Cycle Ops luggage rack, Vic HID, heel shifter, Rockford amp, Infinity speakers all around.

2011 Cross Country: Burnt and Traded
BeoBob is offline  
post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-13-2012, 02:18 PM
Senior Member
 
visionjohnny's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: minnesota
Posts: 12,946
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BeoBob View Post
While we are talking about clutch problems I seem to have two issues…

First, when the bike is cold the clutch has a major surge in it. If you let it out just into the friction zone it will move the bike forward in equally spaced surges that are proportionate to the speed the bike is traveling. As the bike warms up this problem lessens but never goes away. Bike has done this since new.

Second, this thing has some major clutch drag even with the lever fully in. I can drive around a parking lot all day in first gear with the clutch pulled all the way in and the engine at idle. It comes to a stop easily if I use the brakes, but without them it would go forever. If I cut the engine it’s like I hit the brakes. I noticed this after maybe 3,000 miles and it seem to be getting worse. Maybe it’s been there since new and I just didn’t noticed it at first.

Neither of these seem right to me. I have played with the clutch cable adjustment, but it doesn’t make any difference at all. Old oil, fresh oil (Victory oil in the middle of the stick checked per manual), doesn’t make any difference.

Any thoughts?
Bob read what I told dentdave and do the adjustment in the cold of morning and NEVER when bike is warm or hot.
Hold onto grip and grab black cable and pull. The silver shoulder end should come out of the clutch perch about a 1/8" loosen or tighten adjuster as needed
COLD is the key to adjusting

2008 Vision
Mpls, MN.

Please add your state and model of bike you have. Click user CP @ top of page and then far left click edit signature. Thanks
visionjohnny is offline  
post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-13-2012, 03:43 PM
Senior Member
 
BeoBob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: JAX FL
Posts: 659
Default

Oh One Eyed Green Monster,

I cannot stress enough that the clutch cable adjustment has no effect on these issues. I have adjusted it from so loose that the friction zone was just off the handle to where it was so tight that it was like the lever was pulled in by ¼ the normal movement.

I just went down and checked the adjustment (bike has not moved in 8 hrs) and it is currently as you suggest… pull on the black part of the cable at the lever, about 1/8th of the silver end comes out.

Now, that being said… there is no logical reason that clutch adjustment would affect the surging problem. Nor is there a logical reason that having the clutch adjusted properly would cause there to be less clutch drag than if it was adjusted way over tight.

The best I can describe the surging issue… Pull lever in, drop into gear, slowly release until friction is felt … it should be smooth as a baby’s a$$. Instead I get widely spaced pulses of power like there are high spots in the clutch (for lack of a better term). The pulses get closer together as the bike picks up speed or if the RPMs are increased. If I release the clutch to leave from a stop the problem is not very apparent. When it gets me is if I need to feather the clutch to go real slow (like waiting for a light to turn green without putting my feet down). If I am at a stop I can let the clutch out just into the friction zone and the bike will move forward a couple of feet then stop (no moving the lever). Then I push the bike backwards (or forwards) a foot or two and it hits a high spot again and wants to move forward. I can bounce against that point while sitting at a light as if I am working the clutch lever, but without moving the lever at all.

Dealer’s response was “It’s normal.”

The clutch drag is easier to describe… Slow the bike down in first (or second) gear with the clutch full out until the RPMs are at idle. Pull the clutch full in and the bike just keeps going. Last weekend I cruised around the Publix parking lot for 3-4 laps without letting the clutch out, bike didn’t even slow down. The bike will even go up slight inclines like this. If you hit the brakes the clutch will slip and you can coast to a stop, if you rev the engine same thing happens, if you kill the engine it’s like you hit the brakes.

After the dealers response to the surging issue I didn’t even bring up the clutch drag. But now the problem seems to be getting worse.

2013 Cross Country Tour: Custom paint, stage 1 exhaust, Lloydz Hi-Flow air filter, cams (HOH-VM1-DR), timing gear (HOH-PTS), Power Commander V, Auto Tune module, Gustafson flip shield, OEM passenger backrest with Cycle Ops luggage rack, Vic HID, heel shifter, Rockford amp, Infinity speakers all around.

2011 Cross Country: Burnt and Traded
BeoBob is offline  
post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-13-2012, 04:21 PM
Senior Member
 
ammo_umb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Utah
Posts: 2,699
Default

Beo,
I had the same problem as soon as the temp dropped under 50 until I read something on here. Someone (can't remember who) said to hold the clutch lever in for about 30 seconds after you start the bike and the surge will go away. I tried it, it worked but as it got colder I had to hold it in longer. When it's in the mid to low 30's I hold the lever in for 1-2 minutes and have zero surge.

The same person mentioned that the surging is caused by the clutch plates sticking together. Holding the lever in while the bike is running allows oil to get in between the plates which helps them operate as designed.

Retired USAF, IYAAYAS!

2008 V-Star 1100 Custom Bobber project

2011 Crimson XR with Forged Highway Bars / Hard Bags / Passenger Backrest, Ness parts including Smooth Layback Plate Frame/Mount / Rad 3 Mirror / deep cut grips / drivers floorboards /shifter peg / brake peg / passenger pegs. Witchdoctor black rack, Lloydz filter / timing wheel / VFC III, 7Jurock windshield, Drag Specialties seat.
ammo_umb is offline  
post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-13-2012, 07:20 PM
Senior Member
 
smoke's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: central PA
Posts: 236
Default

Beo, your Not crazy, mine does the Exact same thing. At least as far as the surging your talking about. Nothing I or a buddy that has a '12 XC Tour does will make it any better or worse.
Amsoil vs Vic oil, full, half full, slightly low levels. It does it for both of us until they get a mile or two down the road. Always first time or two of cycling the clutch but as stated only when cold.

Here is a question, Why doesn't my buddy's new '12 Ness Vision do it. The insides of these bikes are the same. Don't say hydraulic vs cable cuz that isn't it either. Hydraulic doesn't go inside to the plates.

I'm with ya on this one Beo, watching this closely.

Smoke XC
2013 AntiFreeze Green
D&D exhaust, Gust. Smoke +2 Flip or 7" Dk Smoke shield, Kickers with Rockford Fosgate Amp, Vic Pass. Backrest & lots of extra chrome.

2011 Victory Blue XC - Traded
2007 Honda Blue VTX - Traded
smoke is offline  
post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-13-2012, 09:21 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Buckeye, Az.
Posts: 1,415
Default Clutch been hot?

Beobob sounds like you may have some clutch plates welded together. You may say no way I never run it hard,but to me it does not sound right. Has anybody done anyburn outs or dragstrip starts. Rev the thing hard then dump the clutch? Just some fun crazy expensive stuff that can %^&* up a clutch. I have worked on machines for years and yours does not sound right.
Speedblue is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Victory Forums - Victory Motorcycle Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome