Installing 2" pullback bars on 2012 XCT (part 1) - Victory Forums - Victory Motorcycle Forum
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-16-2012, 01:19 AM Thread Starter
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Default Installing 2" pullback bars on 2012 XCT (part 1)

I've put 5K on my XCT2012 with the stock handlebars. I'm about 5'8 and during each one of those miles I wished the handlebars were a little closer to me.

I finally bit the bullet the other day and bought a pair of Victory 2" pullback bars from Amazon. I was pleasantly surprised that the box included new handlebar end caps and two new wire tires to attach the cables to the bars. The bars shipped quickly and were packed very well.
http://amzn.to/P9bU5M

I installed the bars today and my only regret is not this doing 5K miles ago! All of the stock cables fit and the installation went pretty well. But most importantly, that two inches makes a hell of difference! Without the 2" pullbacks, my arms were nearly fully extended. Now my elbows bend comfortably. I've noticed no downside at low speeds (like in parking lots). For shorties like me, this is a highly recommended upgrade!

The steps I took to install them are outlined below and in the part 2 post. Before you start, PROTECT your tank, front fender, and hard lowers well! I dropped a socket extension once and was quite grateful to have the protection available.

Take your time and carefully label where all of the fasteners go as you remove them. There are lots of 'em! Also, be sure to have a full complement of Torx screwdrivers and allen sockets available.

In addition to my instructions below, there is also a good video on YouTube by Drino1969. If it wasn't for that video, I would have never tackled this. Thank you Drino1969!
http://bit.ly/MbScW9

On with the install...

Remove the headlight ring. I used a 2" plastic putty knife. Worked perfectly (also works great for popping out the speaker grills on the inner fairing). The headlight ring should have a clip on each of its four contact points. If it doesn't, the clip is in its slot in the fairing. Don't lose any clips!


Remove the headlight. Remove the four allen bolts shown in the red circles. Carefully unplug it and pull it out of the outer
fairing.
ing.

Remove the wind wings on the left and right sides of the inner fairing. The wind wings are attached with 4mm Allen screws. These screws also part of the outer fairing's attachment to the bike.


Remove the other other fasteners holding the outer fairing on. Pop the speaker grills (the plastic putty knife again!) and remove the 4mm allen screen shown under it. Also remove the other 4mm allen screw below the speaker grill. With these two fasteners removed and the two wind fasteners removed, the outer fairing is ready to pull off.

Correction: I had originally said the wind wing screws were Torx screws. They are NOT.

Remove the outer fairing. Carefully left it up from the headlight open. Wiggle it a little watching the area around the windshield. It pops off pretty easily.

Remove the inner fairing's four bolts. With the outer fairing removed, locate the four bolts that hold the inner fairing on. Remove these bolts. The wire harness keeps the inner fairing from going anywhere--but in the next step you're going to further loosen the inner fairing. I loosely attached the inner fairing with some wire ties to keep the fairing falling or dropping too much in the next step.


Loosen wire harness from the front of the bike. There are two main harnesses that run along the left and right side of the bike. These come through the inner fairing and are attached to it with P-clips. Remove P-clips on both sides. You'll probably have to clip a couple of wire ties to get everything loose. Clip carefully! To replace the handlebars, the inner fairing DOES NOT need to be fully removed form the bike. Once you get enough play in the wire harness, you'll be able to lift the inner fairing up off of the handlebar bolts.

Note that when you're buttoning things back up, take good care to check the wiring harness clearances by turning the handlebars full lock both ways before fully snugging down the P-clips.


Remove the handlebar endcaps. Using a strap wrench, carefully remove the handlebar caps. Wiggle them as little as possible and you'll be able to resuse them.


Remove the left grip and the other stuff on the left side of the handlebars. I expected this to be a tough part of the job. Hardly! By pulling the shoulder of the grip out of the way, find the two Torx set screws holding the grip to the handlebar and remove them. The left grip slides right off.



Go find the part 2 post for the rest of the install.

2012 XCT White
San Antonio, TX

Honda CB350, Penton 125, Penton 175, Honda MR 175, Honda TL250, Yamaha IT 175, Husky 250CR, Husky 360 Auto, Husky 390WR, BMW R90/6, Honda CX 500, 84 Goldwing, 93 Goldwing, 98 Goldwing, 2012 Victory XCT

Last edited by thumbgone; 07-21-2012 at 02:30 PM. Reason: minor edit
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-16-2012, 01:33 AM Thread Starter
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Default Installing 2" pullback bars on 2012 XCT (part 2)

Remove the stuff from the right side of the handlebars--this was probably the hardest part of the job. Remove the front brake assembly and the cruise controls unit from the right side of the handlebars. Keep the front brake reservoir level--I propped on the right hard lower fairing and temporarily held it in place with some wire ties.

The only time I felt like things were approaching getting out of control was removing the throttle body. The trick is you don't remove the throttle from the handlebars, you remove the handlebars from the throttle body.

There is a plate on the bottom of the throttle body--this doesn't need to be (and probably shouldn't be) removed. This plate is shown in the red rectangle below. Remove the two outer screws but leave the screw holding that plate on alone.

Remove the bars from the bike. Take your time! The allen bolts are in there tight! Pull the handlebars carefully out of the throttle body. Set the throttle body down on your well-covered! tank.



Now, you're looking at something about this like this:


Take a break. Relax for a little bit and then get back to it. Go backwards through the steps to put the new ones on. I used a little blue Loctite on the handlebar bolts. I couldn't find a recommended torque setting so I twisted until I stopped feeling lucky.

Take your time getting the bars positioned where you want them. To move them up or down, you pretty much need to do all of the steps again!

If you're even only moderately handy, this isn't that tough of a job. And I like knowing now how to get into the fairing. There is a stereo upgrade in my future and this gave me the confidence to tackle that myself.

Keep it on two wheels!

2012 XCT White
San Antonio, TX

Honda CB350, Penton 125, Penton 175, Honda MR 175, Honda TL250, Yamaha IT 175, Husky 250CR, Husky 360 Auto, Husky 390WR, BMW R90/6, Honda CX 500, 84 Goldwing, 93 Goldwing, 98 Goldwing, 2012 Victory XCT

Last edited by thumbgone; 07-17-2012 at 01:47 PM. Reason: minor edit
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-16-2012, 07:01 AM
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Thumb,

Thank you very much for taking the time and effort to post this write-up. I'm 5'9", and this mod is on my to-do list (once I buy the bar). I've taken off the outer and inner fairings before, for adding a horn and Motolights (see gallery pics, link below), but I've never messed with the throttle and grips. So thanks for those instructions, in particular.

Cheers,

Bill P.

2012 XCT (SOLD) : HeliBars; Centramatics; PC-V; Lloydz air filter; 11" Madstad; Rivco LED mirrors; Doran TPMS; Stebel horn; Motolights; CustomLED trunk flasher; KewlHeel shifter; CycleOps trunk rack; BeadRider seat; Vibranator bar ends; Passenger grab handles; Powerlet outlets; Handlebar RAM mount; RicZ laydown plate; Brukus SaddlebagSecure; 14" flexible antenna; RAM cupholder on trunk; shock Schrader valve relocation.

Gallery: http://www.billanddot.com/victory-xct/
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-16-2012, 09:25 AM
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Very nice post. I am actually getting my 2" Pullbacks tommorrow and your timing was perfect. Thanks for all the trouble making that post to help us out.


Jim
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-16-2012, 10:06 AM Thread Starter
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Bill P--How hard was wiring up your Stebel horn? That is my next upgrade. You have posted some great pix--I referenced them several times as I was planning my handlebar upgrade. rp

2012 XCT White
San Antonio, TX

Honda CB350, Penton 125, Penton 175, Honda MR 175, Honda TL250, Yamaha IT 175, Husky 250CR, Husky 360 Auto, Husky 390WR, BMW R90/6, Honda CX 500, 84 Goldwing, 93 Goldwing, 98 Goldwing, 2012 Victory XCT
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-16-2012, 10:28 AM Thread Starter
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Jim--I've spent a little time in Newfoundland. When you get done with your handlebar project, toast me by kissing a salted cod and then eating some of the French fires and gravy you guys like! rp

2012 XCT White
San Antonio, TX

Honda CB350, Penton 125, Penton 175, Honda MR 175, Honda TL250, Yamaha IT 175, Husky 250CR, Husky 360 Auto, Husky 390WR, BMW R90/6, Honda CX 500, 84 Goldwing, 93 Goldwing, 98 Goldwing, 2012 Victory XCT
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-16-2012, 10:45 AM
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Whats amazing is the great detail to how to do
Great job

2008 Vision
Mpls, MN.

Please add your state and model of bike you have. Click user CP @ top of page and then far left click edit signature. Thanks
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-16-2012, 03:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thumbgone View Post
Bill P--How hard was wiring up your Stebel horn? That is my next upgrade. You have posted some great pix--I referenced them several times as I was planning my handlebar upgrade. rp
Thumb,

The Stebel install was pretty easy, I thought. The hardest part was removing the front fairing, which we both know to do now (eight screws, as I recall, right?).

The other difficult part was figuring out where to put it, and then how to mount it there. That part is now easy for you, as I've done the work and shown it in my gallery pics. Of course, people have mounted the Stebel inside the rear fender and on the side of the engine, but neither of those locations appealed to me (but to each, his own, certainly). Inside the fairing, some have gone with a bracket along the side, but this is a problem with the XCTs because of the HID ballast location on them. I even drilled a now-useless hole in the existing metal support bracket for the fairing, when I was experimenting.

My solution involved a very thick flat bar I picked up at a local hardware store (original purpose unknown), and then drilling a couple of holes and expanding two others. I am very pleased with how this came out, and recommend the work shown in my XCT gallery. After all, we're talking just one short piece of metal, with no bends in it at all, and the Stebel winds up pointing the right way for sound and for drainage, should any moisture get in there.

The wiring was straight forward, if you understand relays. Leaving a lot of slack, I just cable-tied two thick (I forget - 14- or 16-gauge) wires from the now-mounted Stebel along an existing OEM wire run on the left side. (I have crimpers to install the spade lug connectors on the ends of wires, with the proper torque. These go on the flat connector ends that are already present on the Stebel and on relays.) One wire went down to the battery, and the other stopped at the relay. I mounted the relay with a cable tie in the hole that the stock horn used to be mounted to, and wrapped the relay thoroughly in magic stretchy tape. The rest of the relay connections involved the stock horn wires for the trigger circuit and another lead to the battery down below. I haven't had any problems with this setup, and don't expect to.

I mounted a Stebel on my Burgman 650 some years back. That involved sawing some plastic out of the way, but was otherwise similar. Never had any problem with that installation, either. (You can see some pics regarding that in my Burger gallery, http://www.billanddot.com/burgman/ , starting at pic 38.)

If you have relay or other questions (e.g., what wire goes where), feel free to PM me, because I don't want to hijack this thread. I did take off the inner fairing, too, but that was solely to be able to mount a switch to control my Motolights (removed from the Burger before I sold it).

Cheers,

Bill P.

2012 XCT (SOLD) : HeliBars; Centramatics; PC-V; Lloydz air filter; 11" Madstad; Rivco LED mirrors; Doran TPMS; Stebel horn; Motolights; CustomLED trunk flasher; KewlHeel shifter; CycleOps trunk rack; BeadRider seat; Vibranator bar ends; Passenger grab handles; Powerlet outlets; Handlebar RAM mount; RicZ laydown plate; Brukus SaddlebagSecure; 14" flexible antenna; RAM cupholder on trunk; shock Schrader valve relocation.

Gallery: http://www.billanddot.com/victory-xct/
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-16-2012, 04:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thumbgone View Post
Jim--I've spent a little time in Newfoundland. When you get done with your handlebar project, toast me by kissing a salted cod and then eating some of the French fires and gravy you guys like! rp
When I get those bars on I will kiss the cod and have a shot of Screech. Hope you enjoyed your time here on the Rock.
Went for a ride Saturday and saw whales , eagles and porpoises.

So if you spent some time here you know what I mean when I say
" Tis a grand place ta be"

Jim
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-16-2012, 06:45 PM Thread Starter
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Just on a lark, Jim, you wouldn't happen to know Lex Hudson would you?

2012 XCT White
San Antonio, TX

Honda CB350, Penton 125, Penton 175, Honda MR 175, Honda TL250, Yamaha IT 175, Husky 250CR, Husky 360 Auto, Husky 390WR, BMW R90/6, Honda CX 500, 84 Goldwing, 93 Goldwing, 98 Goldwing, 2012 Victory XCT
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