HOW TO INSTALL: Rockford Fosgate PBR300x4 - Victory Forums - Victory Motorcycle Forum
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post #1 of 100 (permalink) Old 07-23-2012, 08:22 PM Thread Starter
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Default HOW TO INSTALL: Rockford Fosgate PBR300x4

OK, first time ever to write a HOW TO. I have no pictures but have installed 3 amps. I helped Archer and Bbob, I believe members here, to troubleshoot their amps and people have PM'd me for lots of help. I will help anybody BUT this is alot to type every time. I should have saved it before this.

So lets try this:

Things you need.
12 feet of power cable (10 gauge--I THINK)
round eyelets and butt connectors big enough for cables
A fuse holder with as big a wire as the power wire and a 25 amp fuse for in it
Approx. 4 or 5 feet of simple speaker wire with butt connectors
Zip ties
Elec. Tape

I'm going on the idea that everyone can access the battery and take off the fairing.

Take 12 feet of power cable and cut it in half. 6 feet each, one will be for the power + from the battery. The other will be for ground - from the battery. Used some black electrical tape on each end of the one you will use for ground so you can tell them apart later. Connect fuse holder to the power wire side. Connect eyelets to the very ends to attach to battery later. DON'T HOOK UP YET!!!!! Now run wires from battery up the left side to behind tank then toward front into fairing. Screw power and ground into the Rockford plug. (Tighten and loosen a few times each, every time the connection will get better.) It's the style of plug, you'll understand when you see it. You are kind of smashing the wire flat inside the plug. This is good.

Ok, find the front speaker wires inside loom heading to each speaker. Leave yourself a little room to work here so cut it near metal fairing supports. Strip both ends half inch each. TIP: (when I wire, I strip half inch for each end. Twist these together tightly. Then use a connector to crimp both wires into one end of connector, and only that one end, the other end will not be used. This is so wire is in constant contact and will never come undone. OR never for me anyway. Use a little tape to finish securing and so nothing will ever touch) Speakers only. Your power wire is too big for tip above but I do use some tape to secure and make it safe from a stray ground point.
Ok back to speaker wires, Repeat for other side. (TIP: Take a 9 volt battery and touch + and - of battery to stripped wire. IF YOU HAVE IT CORRECT + to + and -to - the speaker will push out slightly. IF WRONG + to - the speaker will suck in)
Remember your polarity.

If you have a Tour with rear speakers same idea applies. I believe the colors inside the fairing are Orange with strips and Pink with strips. Your on your own here for Left and Right and use the above tip for polarity + and-. THEY DO NOT MATCH the colors you see if you open up trunk speaker areas. They change at the trunk plug for some reason.

OK TIP: (you will use the 4 prong plug in the shape of a small square that came with amp. Cut the other ends off)
Now, wire the speaker wire you cut earlier coming from main radio into the plug you just cut for the IN side of the amp. Wire the other plug in for the out side of the amp going back into the wire heading toward speakers. Plug all in accordingly. YOU ARE DONE HERE. DO NOT USE THE REMOTE WIRE!!! PERIOD..think about it here sound from radio, into wire, then into amp, out of amp, into factory speaker wire again. Follow the music in your mind. Check IN side of amp and OUT side of amp. Get these right.

Sorry not done, set amp gains to about 4-5 range. There is a slide button on the side of the amp. I forget where it is to be set. ALL Pass (i think) but your ok yet. LET FAIRING OFF for your test session. We'll come back if needed. Double check, everything plugged in correctly.

Go down to battery and hook up. USE a 10mm socket so you get them tight. Put fuse in.
TURN Radio on and SMILE:
Set your gains a little better now by running volume up and down but use different songs. Volume levels change so check multiple times. If by chance you only get low or bass sounds this means your slide switch is wrong. Remember, I forget this part. Adjust this so you get correct sound.
Now use the zip ties to secure things. I used the elec. tape going from the tank to fairing so it was harder to see. If your happy put it all together and enjoy.

Hope it helps, Any Questions just shoot me a PM.
Enjoy It.
Smoke

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post #2 of 100 (permalink) Old 07-24-2012, 08:58 PM
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Good write up! I grounded mine to frame instead of battery, no problems. I mounted the amp to the left upper fairing support, two pre- drilled and tapped holes that line up perfectly with mounting bracket on amp. I did have to ream out the bracket just a bit to get the bolts thru it. I'm hoping the aluminum fairing support helps keep the amp cool as these babies tend to run hot.
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post #3 of 100 (permalink) Old 07-24-2012, 11:08 PM
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I had Best Buy do my install and some times I hear static only from my rear speakers when I go over a bump.
Any thoughts?

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post #4 of 100 (permalink) Old 07-24-2012, 11:12 PM
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Thank you Sir! Without you; I'd still be in no-amp land.

You rock! And yes, I do say that with a pun, as I rock out with my stereo thanks to you!
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post #5 of 100 (permalink) Old 07-24-2012, 11:14 PM
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post #6 of 100 (permalink) Old 07-25-2012, 10:23 AM
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Great post, thx. I have never really thought of adding an amp till now, so have a few questions. Really basic questions (LOL)

1. Where does the amp go? In one of the saddle bags? If so, which one?

2. Para #3 " Now run wires from battery up the left side to behind tank then toward front into fairing"

On my bike, the battery is in the lower front of the engine. Can't visuallize running a wire from the battery to "behind the tank" and then back to the fairing? Seems like I would just go from battery up the frame and into the fairing?

3. First TIP " TIPwhen I wire, I strip half inch for each end. Twist these together tightly. Then use a connector to crimp both wires into one end of connector, and only that one end, the other end will not be used"

I know I am reading wrong...it seems to say connect one end of the wire to the other, i.e. a circle? "crimp both wires into one end of connector .... the other end will not be used"

Needless to say, if I decide to go forward I will get a buddy to help me!

Thx again

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post #7 of 100 (permalink) Old 07-25-2012, 01:50 PM
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Default Trouble free splicing

Save yourself troubles down the road. Solder and heat shrink the splices. They will never vibrate loose, and be easier to bundle.
Slip shrink over one wire, twist and solder, heat the shrink.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg wire.jpg (27.1 KB, 926 views)
File Type: jpg shrink2.jpg (82.0 KB, 1633 views)

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post #8 of 100 (permalink) Old 07-25-2012, 07:22 PM Thread Starter
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Greg B, The amp as biken said goes in the fairing. Once you get it opened up you will see the holes he is talking about or I mounted mine right in front of the radio unit inside there.
K Greg is absolutely right in that his way is better. But in all the years of car install and now some bikes I have never had a problem with my way. Place both wires parallel beside and ends matched up. Now twist both together, you will have a double wire and the end will slide into a connector. Then a little tape so I will won't budge. As I said though, Bugee is correct in solder is best by far but time consuming as well.
Wires from battery do actually run up left frame from the chin/battery area. There is already a small bundle in this area. I went straight up to behind left side of tank. Then turn and run to the front along the other wires already present.

Bugee, I would think your problems go right back to the wire connections we are talking about above. Esp. since you say it is only rear speakers. NOT all of your system. Your rear speakers are probably not connected tightly enough and a bump will cause the very brief loss of connection. OR the plug for the rear speakers is working out of the amp. Might not have been pushed in correctly as to lock so to speak.

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post #9 of 100 (permalink) Old 07-25-2012, 09:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smoke View Post
OK, first time ever to write a HOW TO. I have no pictures but have installed 3 amps. I helped Archer and Bbob, I believe members here, to troubleshoot their amps and people have PM'd me for lots of help. I will help anybody BUT this is alot to type every time. I should have saved it before this.

So lets try this:

Things you need.
12 feet of power cable (10 gauge--I THINK)
round eyelets and butt connectors big enough for cables
A fuse holder with as big a wire as the power wire and a 25 amp fuse for in it
Approx. 4 or 5 feet of simple speaker wire with butt connectors
Zip ties
Elec. Tape

I'm going on the idea that everyone can access the battery and take off the fairing.

Take 12 feet of power cable and cut it in half. 6 feet each, one will be for the power + from the battery. The other will be for ground - from the battery. Used some black electrical tape on each end of the one you will use for ground so you can tell them apart later. Connect fuse holder to the power wire side. Connect eyelets to the very ends to attach to battery later. DON'T HOOK UP YET!!!!! Now run wires from battery up the left side to behind tank then toward front into fairing. Screw power and ground into the Rockford plug. (Tighten and loosen a few times each, every time the connection will get better.) It's the style of plug, you'll understand when you see it. You are kind of smashing the wire flat inside the plug. This is good.

Smoke
“NEC has established that a 2% maximum voltage drop is acceptable.

Using stranded copper wire for a 12V system with 6 feet of wire for 42A would be calculated as below:

The formula is CM = (25 x 42A x 6')/0.24v = 26,250 circular mils.
CM = Circular Mils

25 is for 25C…the Fusing Current (melting wire) is estimated based on 25C, (77F) ambient temperature.

Example: 42A is the Amp draw in a 12 volt system using a 6 foot stranded copper wire.
.24v is the NEC standard 2% voltage drop in a 12V system… 2% or .02/12 = .24v

Hence the formula: CM = (25 x 42A x 6')/0.24v = 26,250 circular mils

This would require a 6 AWG wire according to NEC standards. Using the "voltage drop" method, if the user wanted less than 1% voltage drop on this wire (assuming a nominal 12 v potential) in this setup then a 6 AWG wire is required. If the user can tolerate a 1.5% drop then an 8 AWG wire would suffice. A 10 AWG wire would have a 2.2% voltage drop, just over the NEC standard.”

Your example:

CM = (25 x 25A x 6')/0.24v = 15,625 circular mils
See chart …. 8 AWG = 16,510 CM the voltage drop for 6 feet at 25A is .095 so .095/12*100 = .79% voltage drop.

10 AWG = 10,383 CM the voltage drop for 6 feet at 25A is .1525 so .1525/12*100 = 1.27% voltage drop.

Options:

NEC standard is a 2% voltage drop:

6’ of 8 AWG for 25 amps would be less than a 1% voltage drop, (.79%).

6’ of 10 AWG for 25 amps would be a 1.27% voltage drop still within the NEC standard, but I’d probably go with 8 AWG of stranded copper.

However, 10 AWG is also ok to use, good write up.

Last edited by sixshooter_45; 07-25-2012 at 10:03 PM.
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post #10 of 100 (permalink) Old 07-25-2012, 10:02 PM
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HOW TO INSTALL: Rockford Fosgate PBR300x4?

I took it to my installer.


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