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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-16-2015, 02:21 PM Thread Starter
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Default Bike Cut Out

I was riding home from work this afternoon on my 2013 cross-country tour 14k miles. I had the cruise control set at 70 mph. The bike started cutting out kind of like my old bike when it was time to flip to the reserve tank. The check engine light came on and then the bike just kicked back into normal speed. The check engine light stayed on for about a mile and then went off. I rode the additional 9 miles home without any problems. I had a power commander V installed on the bike last year and recently installed a Lloyd's timing well. Had it on the Dyno one month ago. Other than the bike cutting out today it has been running really well. wondering if I have a bad fuel pump a bad power commander V or what else could be going on. called Polaris and they said my Vin number is not part of the fuel pump recall.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-16-2015, 02:45 PM
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with 10mm wrench check battery bolts. Your hand will lie to you use wrench.
Where is the ground on your PCV check that to

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-16-2015, 04:17 PM Thread Starter
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PCV is grounded @ the battery. Ground was a tiny bit loose but the positive was really loose. If I have more problems I am going to disconnect PCV and see what happens from there.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-16-2015, 05:13 PM
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its most likely the battery cables being loose, if you tightened them it should be good to go

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2012 Cross Country(Imp blue)
de-badged,(self tinted) Klockwerx flare, passenger backrest, passenger touring floorboards, VictoryHID kit, Miller Mufflers short baffles,Lloyds air filter(from witchdr.)Lloyds timing wheel(6*), adjustable drop link, cut seat, removed cats, PCV w/at.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-16-2015, 05:47 PM
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go to hardware store buy two 1/4 washers and put on each battery bolt. Hope your back to normal
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-16-2015, 06:43 PM
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Probably solved your problem. Vic's are very sensitive to anything but a constant reliable power source. No matter what it is, checking the battery cables is the first step,,,,,,,really.

Hope all goes well and don't lose sleep until it is time to lose sleep.


Some people go their whole life wondering if they made a difference, Marines don't have that problem.~ Ronald Reagan

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-16-2015, 09:14 PM Thread Starter
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Just got back from a ride - did great for about 40 miles then staring cutting in and out - no check engine light this time - got to A stoplight and the RPMs were racing between 2000-2500. Chugged and lurched for the next mile and then Just smoothed back out. Starting to think it is my power commander
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-16-2015, 09:41 PM
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Check your main circuit breaker on the side of the battery, the Vic Shop has some videos on youtube going through troubleshooting problems.

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~PCV, Timing Wheel +6, Thrush Mod Exhaust, Madstad 11" windshield
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-17-2015, 01:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kkent66 View Post
Just got back from a ride - did great for about 40 miles then staring cutting in and out - no check engine light this time - got to A stoplight and the RPMs were racing between 2000-2500. Chugged and lurched for the next mile and then Just smoothed back out. Starting to think it is my power commander
Be sure to check all the plugs on the PCV harnesses. On both of ours the injector plugs were a very poor fit to the OEM injector harness plugs.
It would not be hard to believe that one did not properly latch in and eventually worked loose. I'd look real close there and give each one a gentle tug to be sure they are still properly plugged in and latched.
If this started after riding in the rain and one of the plugs was at all loose I'd suspect water inside the plug and deal with it accordingly.

Dynojet really needs to spec a better plug just in that one section of their harness.

You said that you have the PCV grounded at the battery.
Most aftermarket fuel adder computers want to be grounded close to the ground that the factory computer uses or that the sensors use to avoid ground loops. I'd move the ground to the bolt that is spec'd by dyno jet. It is on the rear of the primary side of the engine case.
Here is a picture from the install sheet:



Might not have anything to do with your problem but since your in there and having issues might be a good time to move it anyway.

And don't forget that circuit breaker too.

Good luck.

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-17-2015, 03:55 PM Thread Starter
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So far today I have pulled map from PCV and it looks the same as it did last time I had it on the dyno. I checked the main circuit breaker and both posts were pulling 14.5 volts consistently. I purchased two 1/4 lock washers and put one on each bolt for the positive and negative. It has been raining off and on today and i had a little window to try and take it around the block. As I was backing out of the garage and almost died twice but managed to stay running. I got about a 5 minute ride in, never above 35mph and the bike did ok. I guess I will check each connection on the PCV. One other thought.....I added a lloyds timing wheel (+4) back in May and took it to get dyno'd right afterwards. I used loctite on center bolt and tighten to the specified torque. Any possiblity the timing wheel is causing my issue?

2013 Cross Country Tour - Black - Columbus, Ohio
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