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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-25-2015, 07:03 AM Thread Starter
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Default Timing gear

trying to install alloyed timing gear on my xc and can't get it to sit all the way in ?
Any suggestions
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-25-2015, 07:18 AM
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trying to install alloyed timing gear on my xc and can't get it to sit all the way in ?
Any suggestions
Is it lined up squarely on the keyway,
I took mine on and off a few times to be completely certain it was lined up correctly before putting a socket in place to allow me to tap it into place evenly.

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-25-2015, 07:26 AM
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Be careful not to damage the keyway ....

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-25-2015, 07:30 AM
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Be careful not to damage the keyway ....
Yeah be careful, ...mine was a bit reluctant to just slip on.
Maybe a dab of oil to lube it, or even warm it up a bit with a hairdryer or heat gun set on low.

Just how far is it on? If its started and slid down the shaft youll get a change in tapping noise when its seated in place.
Post a pic if in doubt...

Victory Vegas 2010
Lloydz 109"cube big bore
" " 495 cams
" " TorqueTubes
" " timing wheel @4 deg.
" " Primary plate
" " IAV
RPW Slash pipes
PCV
Progressive 465 rear shock
Kingpin USD Forks
18" XC front wheel
1 3/4" 'Burleigh Bars'
Stebel air horn
12.106 @110.90mph
114/123

Victory Cross Country 2010 (106)
Lloyds air filter
" " VM1 Cams
Home gutted exhaust
Maximus
Both tuned by [email protected] Dyno
110/116

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Australia

Last edited by Motorbikerx; 07-25-2015 at 07:33 AM.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-25-2015, 08:20 AM Thread Starter
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Default Timing gear

i will try tapping it on with a socket, I can only get it on about 3/4 of the way on by hand
Thanks for the suggestions
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-25-2015, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by David1807 View Post
i will try tapping it on with a socket, I can only get it on about 3/4 of the way on by hand
Thanks for the suggestions
I'd only do that as a last resort. What happens if you can't get it all the way on once you start to tap it on. Then you will always wonder if it was all the way down or had some crap under it. At that point if you ever need it removed you will be using a puller and hoping it is still straight when you get it off. Something to be avoided if at all possible.

Double check that there isn't any old locktite anywhere then
clean the end of the crank with carb cleaner on a rag and paint it with black magic marker. Then slide the gear on slowly till it just stops, pull it back off and see if you can determine what's wrong.

I had to work mine on and off a few times till it finally seated completely. But sliding it on and off repeatedly finally freed it up and it did finally slide down all the way down. It was a little stressful but it in the end it went on and off just fine.

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-25-2015, 09:22 AM
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Mine also was very tight.
I spayed a little WD 40 then lined it up and slid it on.

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-25-2015, 09:37 AM
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When you get all that sorted out, be sure to clean the threads on the bolt and in the hole. Use Loc Tight on it and be sure the bolt seats to the gear before tightening. 17Ft/lb. Make sure the adjustment nuts are tight as well 15 ft/lb. Do not assume, and use a wrench to confirm this. Don't get freaky with it, both values are not that tight, but are plenty to do the job.

Several have reported the factory thread locker gathering in the bottom of the attachment hole and causing the bolt head not to seat.

Good luck

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-25-2015, 09:49 AM
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Make sure the adjustment nuts are tight as well 15 ft/lb.

When I installed mine, I was reluctant to torque the adjustment bolts to the above mentioned value. It felt as if the thread would not be able to even get close to this value. By pure chance I saw on Youtube that the torque value has been reduced by the manufacturer to between 5 - 7 ft/lb. Too many stripped adjustment bolts!


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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-25-2015, 11:10 AM Thread Starter
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Default Timing gear

thanks guys I will be trying it again today
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