stripped/crossed oil drain plug threads :( - Victory Forums - Victory Motorcycle Forum
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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-02-2015, 06:57 AM Thread Starter
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Default stripped/crossed oil drain plug threads :(

Thought I'd post in case anyone else hamfists their plug.

So....I did an oil change back in early June before Laconia, I didn't like the way the plug felt going back in but it seemed to seat & seal. Fast forward to earlier this week, I notice a small oily spot on the wood floor of my shed under the bike...s**t! sure enough I see oil drips coming off the drain plug. I put a little snug on it, but I knew
This is some of what came out with the plug when I pulled it yesterday morning.


This could have been a MAJOR issue, I feel I got very lucky being able to repair it without a incurring a huge expense or having to pull the engine or both. Here's what I did.
We have an M12x1.5mm drain plug....of course, there is no oversize tapping plug(I could find) in this size. So I had to buy several types that were close. This is the plug that worked:
Needa Parts Oil Drain Plug Magnetic 1/2 Inch-20 S.O., Head Size 3/4 Inch

First I depth checked, since the stock plug is short, there was plenty of clearance. M12 is .47" so its a smaller hole than 1/2" but the chisel head on this plug allowed it to get in and get started. That was the most difficult part, working from under the bike and pressuring the plug evenly. I did get it started and slowly cut a few turns, then backed it out, removed any cuttings with a Q-tip and spray lube. Once I had made new threads I noticed the new plug has a small bevel on the nut(the stock is flat) so it won't sit flush with the case. I put some pressure on the new plug when is was full in to impress the bevel in the pan. Then I took the copper washer from the stock plug. Gripped it with a needlenose and carefully opened up the ID with a roto-tool until it fit over the bezel. There's not much material to remove, so this went pretty easy and worked like a charm. Once in with the re-fitted washer I had a flush tight seal. Before refilling with fresh oil I ran some of the drained oil though(with out starting) just to flush any cuttings out.
This took about an hour and cost $12(+$20 for a new gal. of Rotella) because of all the plugs I had to buy, but it worked. I took a 260mi ride afterward and its a solid fix.
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Last edited by PaiN; 08-02-2015 at 07:05 AM.
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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-02-2015, 07:03 AM
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Good save, great tip

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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-02-2015, 08:21 AM
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oil bung should screw most of the way back in by hand.
if it doesn't never force it in with a tool or you'll end up in the above mess.
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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-02-2015, 08:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motorbikerx View Post
oil bung should screw most of the way back in by hand.
if it doesn't never force it in with a tool or you'll end up in the above mess.
Yes, AVOID this kind of fix.
If you are screwing something in and you have to force it, stop!
You should NEVER have to force a screw or bolt....especially a drain plug which will have oil on it...

Not trying to rip on you PaiN, I know stuff happens...

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Last edited by 45caldan; 08-02-2015 at 08:52 AM.
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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-02-2015, 08:52 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motorbikerx View Post
oil bung should screw most of the way back in by hand.
if it doesn't never force it in with a tool or you'll end up in the above mess.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 45caldan View Post
Yes, AVOID this kind of fix.
If you are screwing something in and you have to force it, stop!
You should NEVER have to force a screw or bolt....especially a drain plug which will have oil on it...
Thanks guys, I am well aware for this as I'm sure most riders that do their own maintenance are....but unfortunately shit happens and can happen, it doesn't take much. In my case I think I put to much torque on the plug when it was in or somehow got it going off center. So now its posted should anyone else have something like this happen.

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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-02-2015, 10:53 AM
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Good Smart Job Pin

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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-02-2015, 01:18 PM
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Thanks for sharing. Sounds like havea good fix and a good reminder for others.

This dang oil plug issue is far more common than any of us like to see.

Last edited by BBob; 08-02-2015 at 01:22 PM.
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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-02-2015, 01:49 PM
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I did the same thing on my old Vulcan...Drilled it out, retapped, new drain plug...Now I use a torque wrench for everything...cheap insurance...

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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-02-2015, 05:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by philmonger View Post
I did the same thing on my old Vulcan...Drilled it out, retapped, new drain plug...Now I use a torque wrench for everything...cheap insurance...
Not to pick on PaIN (and I've ridden with him, and I think he's a great guy, even if he may not believe that I really have a wife).

Not to come across -- I hope -- like a know-it-all, or someone who's never screwed up (see my addition to the recent dropped-bike thread, or the fact that I dropped my oil filter in the catch basin just a week or so ago, changing my oil).

But...

I'm really surprised by how many posts I've read here and over on the V-O-G about screwed up oil plugs. Or maybe it just seems that way, ya know, certain things seem to stick in your mind.

I've never claimed that my shit don't stink, but I've been changing oil and putting back drain plugs for 18 years now (I started riding late in life), on four bikes, and -- knock on wood -- never had a problem.

- I put the plug in by hand, all the way. And my hands are not that tough.

- I use a torque wrench after that, at which point it's not going to turn much. The spec for our engine's drain plug is 15 ft-lb, which isn't very much.

- I own four torque wrenches -- two Harbor Freight, and two Sears -- and try to use one that has the required spec in the middle of its range. The HF ones are cheap and on sale all the time; no, they're not precision instruments, but they still claim a 4% accuracy. And I got the Sears ones on sale, including a 1/2" one I only use for car-tire changes. We're talking maybe the cost of a big piece of chrome doo-dad, total for all four.

- I store the torque wrenches set at 0.

- If I haven't used a wrench in a while, on the first (or only) use that day, I'll sneak up on the spec value, i.e., set it about halfway, tighten, and then set it at the real value.

I'm not a slave to manuals -- the torque spec for the battery terminal bolts, for instance, is definitely too low (I checked it out once, and then dispensed with it). But much as I'd like to get manly on those oil drain bolts, I resist the temptation to show how tight I can make things; when the wrench clicks, you must quit.
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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-02-2015, 05:45 PM
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pAiN, that is bad, but thanks for posting, there are some repair kits out there if somebody needs them;

1. this is just toooo much money....
http://www.arizonavictory.com/catalo...air_Insert.htm

2. this price is much better ....




3. see a nice tread about the subject
http://www.theXXX.net/threads/indian...g-alert.28317/

you know to replace the 3 x with v/o/g

PaIn nice link you send for the replacement plug, good find mate

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Last edited by BP6666VR; 08-02-2015 at 05:51 PM.
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