Tank Removal without Breaking the Nipple - Victory Forums - Victory Motorcycle Forum
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post #1 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-09-2015, 03:34 PM Thread Starter
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Default Tank Removal without Breaking the Nipple

Tomorrow I am planning to remove the gas tank for the first time on my XCT. I have read many horror stories of how the flimsy plastic nipple on the bottom of the tank can be broken during this process. I have alread about a homemade fix if this happens which is hella-cool given the high cost and long wait time to get a replacement nipple assembly from Victory.

So what is the best way to avoid damaging this nipple during tank removal? I have taken tanks off many VTX1300 bikes and off of my HD Softail so I am comfortable handling the weight and bulkiness. I understand how bike gas tanks have a bolt near the seat and slide onto "pins" in the front.

What are the tips and tricks to remove and reinstall the tank without breaking the delicate nipple.

How many times can I say "nipple" in one post

G'day,

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post #2 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-09-2015, 03:54 PM
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I follow the manual and have had no trouble. I know some will say to remove the other end of the fuel line at the throttle body and cut the zip tie (under the throttle side cheese wedge). I don't want to risk the line getting rubbed/scraped so I won't do it that way.
It takes a lot of pressure to squeeze the tabs on the fuel line, so I prop the tank up with a scrap 2x4. It gives me enough room to work (big hands). I lay a rag under the line, and squeeze like hell. No problem...
The install is where you have to be extra careful. Get the front of the tank into the alignment posts in the front (KEEPING the tank angled to not drag the nipple along the frame) and get the handy 2x4 out again to give you room to work. FIRMLY push the nipple on till it clicks (remember how hard it was to pull off). Pull out board, and button it up. Done



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post #3 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-09-2015, 04:05 PM
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I have found the safest way to avoid breaking that nipple is to NOT disconnect the fuel hose from the lower end. Lift the tank enough to reach under and release the fuel hose from the nipple. When replacing the tank, reverse the process.
When your tank is removed, I suggest to one and all to reinforce the nipple with an appropriate length of 1/4" steel tubing. With a probe (like a small crochet hook) determine the length of the hole (and no more), cut the tubing to that length and drill an interference fit hole. Bevel one end of the tubing and gently tap it into the hole flush with the end. Now the nipple is stronger than ever before.

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post #4 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-09-2015, 04:10 PM
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Be sure to stuff the hole under the seat in the frame with a rag or tape over it with masking tape so that the little nubbed rubber washers from the rear tank bolts can't run away down that hole and hide from you. If you get them off successfully without loosing them your almost sure to have one run away while trying to get the tank back in place.
It's really frustrating when you loose them.

I try to keep a spare one on hand now. Seems to discourage the ones on the bike from escaping. I've spent more time looking for the washer than fixing whatever I was working on under the tank sometimes.

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post #5 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-09-2015, 04:22 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe_ View Post
Be sure to stuff the hole under the seat in the frame with a rag or tape over it with masking tape so that the little nubbed rubber washers from the rear tank bolts can't run away down that hole and hide from you. If you get them off successfully without loosing them your almost sure to have one run away while trying to get the tank back in place.
It's really frustrating when you loose them.

I try to keep a spare one on hand now. Seems to discourage the ones on the bike from escaping. I've spent more time looking for the washer than fixing whatever I was working on under the tank sometimes.
What are you, a complete woose? All you do is turn the bike upside down and shake it to get those parts back out of the hole

Thanks for the advice, folks. Keep it coming.

G'day,

Vinish

G'day,

Vinish

Our patriotic stable:

Red 2012 XCT (wife's bike in NC)
Red 2012 XCT (my bike for NC)
White with custom flames 2012 XCT (wife's bike in FL)
Blue custom fire on a black 2012 XCT (my bike in FL)

2006 HD Softail Heritage (my bike when I was in MI - sold in Oct, 2017 after putting 45,000 miles and 20 states and one province on it - My first big bike and most of us will always remember our first with fond memories)
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post #6 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-09-2015, 04:22 PM
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Someone posted that they glued those rubber spacers so they stay in place.

2010 Midnight Cherry XR. 7Jurock, Lloydz AF, ATS, AFR tuned VFCIII, IAV, and T-6 and locally repacked pipes = big smiles. SOLD to a dear friend, so it's still in the family."
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post #7 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-09-2015, 05:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe_ View Post
Be sure to stuff the hole under the seat in the frame with a rag or tape over it with masking tape so that the little nubbed rubber washers from the rear tank bolts can't run away down that hole and hide from you. If you get them off successfully without loosing them your almost sure to have one run away while trying to get the tank back in place.
It's really frustrating when you loose them.

I try to keep a spare one on hand now. Seems to discourage the ones on the bike from escaping. I've spent more time looking for the washer than fixing whatever I was working on under the tank sometimes.
.. LOL, been there done that!

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post #8 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-09-2015, 05:35 PM
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When putting the line back on just be sure to hear the "click". Don't think it is secure because you feel you pushed it on all the way. Two days later you may find your bike shutting down when the line slips off and you are stuck on the side of the highway at 3 in the morning. Pulling the tank in the pitch dark with trailer trucks flying by is no fun. True story (never mind that the rear wheel locks when the motor shuts down)

2011 Kingpin
custom paint
Ness fly bars
xbow exhaust
S&S air intake
Dobeck fuel controller
chrome floorboards
cruise control

2004 Kingpin
Victory performance exhaust
customized air box / K+N filter
LLoydz fuel controller
custom oil lines
custom led lighting
custom led third brake lights
Sold ..( my baby, still have some sellers remorse)


2011 XC
rpw exhaust
wiseco fuel controller
Sold
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post #9 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-09-2015, 06:03 PM
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this will help I hope

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=95Y2vA2UljA#t=204

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post #10 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-10-2015, 07:06 PM
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I use skinny, little zip ties to keep the inner washers secured while I replace the tank, then snip them.

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