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post #1 of 43 (permalink) Old 12-24-2015, 05:33 PM Thread Starter
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Default Fork Service

Seeking info......
I plan to do the 15K service my 2012 XR forks.
From what Kevinx posted they should be torn down and cleaned very well not just a fluid replacement.
That said, has anyone done the tear down without the Special Compression Tool?
Is there a write up on this that someone has done other than the service manual?
The only method I can find is the witchdoctor video.
Should I use his video and a procedure?
Any constructive suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

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post #2 of 43 (permalink) Old 12-24-2015, 05:39 PM
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I have yet to do this, but there are those on this forum who say the WD video is wrong. Don't ask me why. But why are you doing it so soon? I'm going to put on 30K before servicing the forks. Even the Service mgr. at my dealer sez to wait til then. If you are adhering to the manual, you can also put off replacing the belt until way after Ma Vic's recommendation. Merry Christmas, I hope this helps a bit.

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post #3 of 43 (permalink) Old 12-24-2015, 06:07 PM
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go to tech forum here there was a post about 3 weeks back with a lot of answers

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post #4 of 43 (permalink) Old 12-24-2015, 06:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RICZ View Post
I have yet to do this, but there are those on this forum who say the WD video is wrong. Don't ask me why. But why are you doing it so soon? I'm going to put on 30K before servicing the forks. Even the Service mgr. at my dealer sez to wait til then. If you are adhering to the manual, you can also put off replacing the belt until way after Ma Vic's recommendation. Merry Christmas, I hope this helps a bit.
RICZ if you seen the slop that came outta my forks at 30,000 miles youd be doing it at 15,000.
replace it with Quality Synthetic oil and you can then go over 15 if you like.
Thing with suspension components they go off gradually so you dont really notice the difference till you refresh em.
then it blows you away!
yr dealers talkin shit.
Belt yeah-Ride on- mines gone waaay past rec with a hole in it!

EDIT if your riding is on stereotypical pool table smooth superhighways and endless cities like I see on tv then your shocks are not really doing much so yeah you may be ok to 30,000

Victory Vegas 2010
Lloydz 109"cube big bore
" " 495 cams
" " TorqueTubes
" " timing wheel @4 deg.
" " Primary plate
" " IAV
RPW Slash pipes
PCV
Progressive 465 rear shock
Kingpin USD Forks
18" XC front wheel
1 3/4" 'Burleigh Bars'
Stebel air horn
12.106 @110.90mph
114/123

Victory Cross Country 2010 (106)
Lloyds air filter
" " VM1 Cams
Home gutted exhaust
Maximus
Both tuned by [email protected] Dyno
110/116

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Last edited by Motorbikerx; 12-24-2015 at 06:23 PM.
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post #5 of 43 (permalink) Old 12-24-2015, 07:01 PM
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Good point MBX. I have @ 26K miles and am going to do the forks as a winter project. I'll report on the "slop" that comes out of mine. Also thinking of Syn oil and maybe 15W. Done that in other bikes with great results.
Is it still steenking hot there where you are? If so, I'll give you my address and you can send some of that to me. That way, you'll be cooler and I'll be warmer and drier. We're drowning here.

2010 Midnight Cherry XR. 7Jurock, Lloydz AF, ATS, AFR tuned VFCIII, IAV, and T-6 and locally repacked pipes = big smiles. SOLD to a dear friend, so it's still in the family."
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post #6 of 43 (permalink) Old 12-24-2015, 07:50 PM
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The replacement of any lubricating fluid will depend upon the conditions it was used in and for how long. Most of us are familiar with the contributing factors that break down engine oil but so to are there conditions that promote deterioration of fork oil.

Temperature, humidity, rust, particle contamination from the sliding fork material, steel spring metal flaking, additive deterioration, etc, all contribute. Each of us ride different roads in different situations so not everyone would experience the exact same level of break down in a given time. The fork oil in my bike on the high humidity of the west coast would not last as long as the same oil in my last location on the prairies. The condition of the road and how many times it stresses the viscosity characteristics of the oil through the valves contributes as well. Nice smooth superhighways will have less of an effect than potholed back roads.

The resultant varnish that is produced by the deterioration is the reason it needs a good cleaning. Your engine would also benefit from a cleaning flush when the oil is changed but I doubt many even know about it.

Once the deterioration of the metal surfaces begins it gets worse exponentially. Unless you are taking things apart and looking microscopically you won't see some of the effects. If corrosion gets to the point you can see it with your naked eye it's too late. Don't let your oil get to the point where it's noticeable that you've left it too long.
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Last edited by 53canuck; 12-25-2015 at 11:10 AM.
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post #7 of 43 (permalink) Old 12-24-2015, 08:41 PM Thread Starter
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Default Potential Procedure

I gleaned this from a lot of posts, feel free to add or suggest any changes. This is my attempt to make myself a procedure.

1. Remove the front calipers from the fork mounts, remove the front wheel & axle.
2. Lose the Top cap a turn or two while shock is held firm.
3. Remove shocks.
4. Remove bottom bolt and washer.
5. Set a drain pan under fork and collect the old fork oil.
6. Remove cap carefully and take out spring, cartridge etc.
7. Rinse out fork legs with cleaner. Once everything is cleaned up (spring, cartridge, etc) reassemble the fork and install allen bolt removed to drain forks.
8. Compress fork and add appropriate quantity of oil (volume & measurement per manual)(481 cc +- 3cc for an XR).
9. Compress several times trying to remove all air bubbles.
10. using a syringe tube setup, lower the fork oil level to 106mm for an XR.
11. Reinstall fork caps and reverse the removal steps to reassemble.

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post #8 of 43 (permalink) Old 12-24-2015, 08:48 PM
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Read this thread, all you want to know .... And a tad more then you need to know ....

https://www.victoryforums.com/showthread.php?t=149986

.

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Last edited by BP6666VR; 12-24-2015 at 09:41 PM.
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post #9 of 43 (permalink) Old 12-25-2015, 12:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BP6666VR View Post
Read this thread, all you want to know .... And a tad more then you need to know ....

XC fork oil - Victory Forums - Victory Motorcycle Forum

.
Quite a bit more than you need to know actually.
Anything from me or BP6666VR is concerned with conventional forks, not USD.
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Victory Vegas 2010
Lloydz 109"cube big bore
" " 495 cams
" " TorqueTubes
" " timing wheel @4 deg.
" " Primary plate
" " IAV
RPW Slash pipes
PCV
Progressive 465 rear shock
Kingpin USD Forks
18" XC front wheel
1 3/4" 'Burleigh Bars'
Stebel air horn
12.106 @110.90mph
114/123

Victory Cross Country 2010 (106)
Lloyds air filter
" " VM1 Cams
Home gutted exhaust
Maximus
Both tuned by [email protected] Dyno
110/116

Gold Coast
Australia
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post #10 of 43 (permalink) Old 12-25-2015, 11:24 AM Thread Starter
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Default So....

Is this procedure not right or ???
to general? missing items?
Sure wish one of the Victory Mechanics would post comments or a corrected procedure.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TechnoGeek View Post
I gleaned this from a lot of posts, feel free to add or suggest any changes. This is my attempt to make myself a procedure.

1. Remove the front calipers from the fork mounts, remove the front wheel & axle.
2. Lose the Top cap a turn or two while shock is held firm.
3. Remove shocks.
4. Remove bottom bolt and washer.
5. Set a drain pan under fork and collect the old fork oil.
6. Remove cap carefully and take out spring, cartridge etc.
7. Rinse out fork legs with cleaner. Once everything is cleaned up (spring, cartridge, etc) reassemble the fork and install allen bolt removed to drain forks.
8. Compress fork and add appropriate quantity of oil (volume & measurement per manual)(481 cc +- 3cc for an XR).
9. Compress several times trying to remove all air bubbles.
10. using a syringe tube setup, lower the fork oil level to 106mm for an XR.
11. Reinstall fork caps and reverse the removal steps to reassemble.

I reject your reality, and submit my own!

2012 Cross Roads, Utopia Drivers Backrest, Victory Passenger Backrest, Tall Windshield, Lowers, Mirror Extenders, 3m Clear Paint Protective film.
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