To save you from reading a really freakin' long document, here's some info I have in my write-up on adding Rivco LED mirrors to an XCT ( Adding Rivco LED Mirrors to a Victory Cross Country Motorcycle
) that I think is relevant to your question.
Battery Terminal Extenders:
I use the Termin-8 for avoiding glomming up the battery terminals. (For completeness, note that I have toothed washers on the battery bolts, and medium thread locker on the bottom half of the bolts, dielectric grease on the top half of the bolts, and the bolts snugged very tightly. Once you add a terminal extender like this, you may never have to mess with the actual battery bolts again.)
I highly recommend the Termin-8, even if it's expensive; it's well made and you don't have to solder anything or crimp any pins, etc. If all you want are some always-on connections (which is what direct connections to the battery result in, if you were to use the battery terminal bolts themselves), these will do the trick.
I use my Termin-8 for juice to a horn relay, and to Powerlet outlet, and some other things. I use the Powerlet outlet (drilled through the left side cover -- see Victory Powerlet in Side Cover
, if interested) for two things: heated gear and a smart-charger. I suppose an outlet for heated gear should be an ignition-on-only power source, but once you turn off the bike you're likely to turn off your gear and get off the bike, i.e., so it doesn't really matter if the power source for heated gear is always hot. And if it weren't, you couldn't use the same outlet for a Battery Tender, et al. Another always-on circuit might be an alarm system, for instance.
In any case, here are some extenders. Note that they're all short -- not for under the fairing -- and all have their own fuse protection:
: Powerlet Termin-8
: Eastern Beaver 3-Circuit Solution
Accessory Fused Terminal | Load Equalizers & Adapters | Lighting | Küryakyn
: Kuryakyn Accessory Fused Terminal
If you'll be adding many more circuits, and especially if you want one or more of them to be ignition-on-only (such as extra lights, with or without their own switches), you'll probably want to add a full-fledged fuse block. (I have one set of added lights, but they have their own relay, which is powered by a connection to the Termin-8, but triggered by an ignition-on-only source. If you'll add a lot of such circuits, then a fuse block would eliminate adding a relay for each such circuit.)
IMHO, the placement of a fuse block should be in the vicinity of most of the devices that will be added. This will make for shorter wire runs, and will eliminate having a lot of wires cross the "neck" area of the bike, where you have to allow for necessary slack and avoid pinching wires as the handlebars are turned full lock.
Again IMHO, it should not be necessary to place the fuse block for easy access. Replacing or checking fuses should be an extremely rare occurrence if you wire devices properly. And it takes me less than 10 minutes to take off the fairing, so I'd probably recommend that as a fuse block location.
Here are some fuse blocks:
: Arboreal Systems Dispatch 1
: Blue Sea Fuse Blocks
: Centech Fuse Panels
Denali PowerHub2 fuse block, master ground block and wiring harness for motorcycles | TwistedThrottle.com
: Denali PowerHub2
: Eastern Beaver Power Center 8
: Electrical Connection Power Plate
: Fuzeblocks FZ-1
PDM60 | Rowe Electronics
: Rowe Electronics PDM60 Power Distribution Module
Also of possible interest might be this ground block, depending on how bare-bones of a fuse block you get (such as the really basic fuse holders available for a few dollars at auto-parts stores). I used this on one of my bikes, and it's a nice accessory for what it's designed to do:
Master Ground Block
: Electrical Connection Master Ground Block