Powder coating? Front forks - Victory Forums - Victory Motorcycle Forum
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-21-2013, 04:45 PM Thread Starter
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Default Powder coating? Front forks

Has anyone powder coated or anodized their front forks? I have a 2011 XC that I'm blacking out. I was originally planning on anodizing the top of the fork and powder coating the bottom. However, I didn't realize the bottom assembly and the inner fork rod were one piece. Now I'm thinking I should just anodize the whole thing.

Does anybody have any advice or experience with this?

Thanks so much.
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-21-2013, 08:02 PM
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yes I'm redoing my forks also.. I'm doing a powder coating on the entire fork system. I think powder coating would be the best option to go. But before you get them done make sure you can see the color on something before you agree. I'm doing my own stuff and I bought a flat black and a satin black and to be honest the flat black looks better. I'm going to get a semi gloss and see how that works.

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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-22-2013, 08:05 AM
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When either of you are done with the forks will you post some photos?

I am also blacking out my bike, slowly though due to the cost of parts. If I can save some money by powder coating then I'd like to go that way.
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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-22-2013, 12:02 PM
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Default Re: Powder coating? Front forks

I just had mine done...looks great. I took the fork apart myself and brought it to the powder coater...then brought it to the victory dealer to put it back together. Looks awesome!

On a side note..i would run a tap f through the pinch bolts for the axle after powder coating is done. And make damn sure that you have your pinch bolts threaded and started to the backside before you attempted to put the axle in. I didnt and broke the pinch bolt off in the fork...because of these 2 things. Other then that its pretty easy....i too am blacking mine out...everything is done just doing the reinstallation now.

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2012 XC Imperial Blue/Blacked out, LLoyds filter, LLoyds timing wheel,
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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-22-2013, 12:09 PM
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anodizing does not work on cast aluminum and it will fade away in time.
Best bet is power coating. Order your seals before you take it all a part. Most dealers don't Carrie the parts.
Once you have the forks power coated you will half to lube the forks to get them to slid back into the triple trees cause they will be fatter

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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-22-2013, 01:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beast30 View Post
I just had mine done...looks great. I took the fork apart myself and brought it to the powder coater...then brought it to the victory dealer to put it back together. Looks awesome!

On a side note..i would run a tap f through the pinch bolts for the axle after powder coating is done. And make damn sure that you have your pinch bolts threaded and started to the backside before you attempted to put the axle in. I didnt and broke the pinch bolt off in the fork...because of these 2 things. Other then that its pretty easy....i too am blacking mine out...everything is done just doing the reinstallation now.

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Thanks for the advise. If you get a chance will you post a few pictures?
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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-22-2013, 01:24 PM Thread Starter
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Beast30 thanks so much for the info about the pinch bolts. Definitely good to know.
When you powder coated the lower "assembly" (where the pinch bolts go) did you just mask off the inner fork rod? Or where you able to separate the fork rod from the lower assembly for powder coating? Or did you just powder coat the whole thing?

I want to be sure I have a plan before I disassemble the forks.

Thanks so much.
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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-22-2013, 02:54 PM
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i don't believe that you can separate the fork tube from the lower fork assembly. I just handed it to the power coater and said "please do not Powder coat the shining chrome part, ha ha" ...He knew but I just wanted to clarify. I asked him to mask off the holes but apparently some got in there. I also had a some trouble getting the axle to thread in ..I believe the same thing happened, powder got in on those threads too. I diodn't have a tap that big so I threaded it alittle bit back it off and then kept doing that till it was seated. Then backed it off again about 2 turns and put my torque wrench on it to get the proper torque.

When taking out the axle. I went to the tool store and was able to buy 1 16mm hex wrench and cut it off so it would fit in my socket and impact wrench and it worked great. In a pinch you could use a 16mm head bolt and stick that in there and double nut the threads to get it out...but like I say that I would only recommend that in a pinch.

and yes, upon installation rub some motor oil or other lubricant like dish soap on the newly coated forks so they slide in easier and that way you won't scratch your new coating.

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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-22-2013, 09:09 PM Thread Starter
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Beast30, I can't even thank you enough for all the information and pictures. I feel like I have a solid game plan now.

I'll definitely post pics as soon as I finish her up.
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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-27-2013, 09:39 AM
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Well I have some bad news. I had the forks lower and uppers done a few months back. After installing the forks and letting the girl sit in the garage finishing up with the rest of the winter mods I noticed my front tire had some oil on it.

I thought maybe it was the drain plug from the forks leaking but..it wasn't. It was leaking out of the top of the lower fork leg ( where the stainless steel slider and lower leg meet). NOT GOOD

I wrapped some tape around the stainless slider to see maybe it was leaking from above (fork seals) and then running down..NOPE..

So I brought them into the dealer for some guidance or warranty. NOPE....

From what I can gather is that when the lowers were put into the oven for baking on the PC thats went the thread sealant gave way and broke down thus causing the leak. They apparently are not forged but actually threaded into the lower section. So....looks like I will be hving to purchase new lowers at 400 a piece..

So I would use extreme caution when deciding to PC the lowers. My next attempt I believe will be just to paint them

2012 XC Imperial Blue/Blacked out, LLoyds filter, LLoyds timing wheel,
VM1 DR cams, PC5, LLoyds ECM, Big Gonzo, KM meat hook bars (internally wired), Conquest underdrive pulley, KM instrument bezels, JTD lowers with speakers, PBR300 amp with Polk 6.5, .40 cal cheese wedges, tinted turn and tail
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