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Vic hydroulic clutch kit.

6K views 30 replies 17 participants last post by  joseph 
#1 ·
If all goes well with the stage 1 and new buffeting control, I'm going to be looking to install a hydraulic clutch kit.
What are your experiences with these kits and use.
 
#2 ·
had mine on for 2 years with no problems. this was the older kit
with im assuming shorter hose. ran it down the l side of the
frame.--irv
 
#5 ·
but it does eliminate the chance of a cable breaking and they don't need to be adjusted after the initial setup so there are some significant pluses to having one. I like the idea of maintenance free.
Inst it a cable with barrel end at the transmission end ?
 
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#7 ·
my vision has a hydraulic clutch. Pulls the same as a cable. once a year pull lever and clean and lube clean and lube clutch barrel at clutch arm.
Bleed the master cylinder before you put it on the bike. Remember air will rise to the highest point.

Like always we pray it never leaves us on the side of the road
 
#8 ·
I actually liked the feel of the cable action. I went with the hyd clutch after about 2k miles to simply avoid the minor maintenance of said cable and the resultant gremlin who typically rears its ugly head when you are on a scenic alternate route 320 miles from home. First use of the hyd clutch the pull felt mushy . . . I wasn't sure I liked it and wasn't sure it was functioning properly. To me, the pull is easier than the cable and is why I wasn't sure it was doing its job. 6k miles later all is well in the hyd clutch dept. Works for me. No regrets. Yrmv, sheets
 
#9 ·
So you all feel the kits are worth $350? I have a heavy and creaky clutch pull.
 
#10 ·
Every bolt-on doo-dad in the accessory catalogue is a couple hundred bucks, or more. Yes, I believe its worth it. One guys opinion.
 
#13 ·
My '08 KP had a hydraulic clutch from the factory. The clutch lever had a small "wheel" numbered 1 to 5? Turning the wheel made a difference in pull.
If I didn't have some of the physical ailments that make me question how much longer I'll be riding, I'd put a hydraulic clutch on my XR.
 
#14 ·
I have the hydro on my CC and love it. If you do decide to do the conversion..save yourself some aggravation and rent, borrow a small vacuum pump to assist the bleeding process. I struggled to bleed mine for 2 hrs and then borrowed a vacuum pump...bled in less than 5 mins.
 
#17 ·
I'm going to hold off on adding the hydraulic clutch. I still want one, especially after all that's been said about it, but I after a sheared bolt caused a simple muffler install to turn into a 4 hour ordeal, I decided to put away my tools and leave well enough alone. Maybe I'll ask for the kit for Christmas and install it next season.
 
#18 ·
I put a hydraulic unit on my XR after breaking a cable. It felt about the same. It was a bitch to bleed initially. I went through 5or 6 cables on my Kinpin, so when I lost the one on th XR, I wasn't taking chances on Vic cables anymore. Although, Vic seems to have sorted out the earlier clutch cable problems.

When I bought my XC, I took the hydraulic unit off the XR and put it on a shelf. I I'll eventually install it on the XC. I just removed the whole unit, intact. No need to rebleed.

A little advice if you are adding one, bleed it befor installing it on the bike. That way you won't have the problem most of us do, the hose ends up with a swoop upward a little through the routing on the bike, making it real hard to pass the air back up through the hose.
 
#19 ·
A little advice if you are adding one, bleed it befor installing it on the bike. That way you won't have the problem most of us do, the hose ends up with a swoop upward a little through the routing on the bike, making it real hard to pass the air back up through the hose.
That's a great idea...I'll keep it in mind for whenever I do this.
 
#24 · (Edited)
My Barnett cable assembly and an EZ-Pull makes my lever pull lighter than any hydro one I have felt. Some advice to those with (or considering) a hyro clutch: In addition to the lever's pivot bolt bushing, there is another bronze bush in there are it WEARS down. Occasionally disassemble the lever and clean and lube both bushings. When doing that, check for wear the one that pushes the cylinder. If worn, it changes your engagement and needs to be replaced. Herein lies a problem; Victory does not sell that part! You can get a perfect fit replacement at a Yamaha dealer; ask for the one for the first generation Ventures. I just did that for a friend's Vision. Oh...and flush and bleed 'em within a two year period, just like the brakes.
 
#27 ·
Are you wanting the P/N of that bushing I was telling about?
 
#28 ·
Barnett cable

Installed the Easypull on my bike and later the Barnett cable. After riding around a couple of weeks I removed the Easypull. Wish I had just bought the Barnett cable to begin with. New cable pivots were as the stock one did not at the ends. Made a big difference to me. Put the Easypull away, somewhere.
 
#29 ·
Installed the Easypull on my bike and later the Barnett cable. After riding around a couple of weeks I removed the Easypull. Wish I had just bought the Barnett cable to begin with. New cable pivots were as the stock one did not at the ends. Made a big difference to me. Put the Easypull away, somewhere.
Didn't pay your syntax, eh Speedy? :wink
 
#31 ·
I was told at 5,000 miles to use cable life every 5,000 miles at every oil change when I service the cable ends and I should never have a cable issue. At 30,000 miles my cable went south. So I decided if that's all the longer they last to hell with the cable life and just clean and grease the cable ends every 5 to 10 thousand miles. So now 137,000 miles later this cable is still working. I still wish I had just gone ahead and went hydraulic when the first cable went south but hey its not the first poor decision I've made.
 
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