Running Voltage - Victory Forums - Victory Motorcycle Forum
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-04-2016, 09:43 AM Thread Starter
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Default Running Voltage

Hopefully someone can chime in. 2012 CCT 59000 miles
Rolling down the road my bike stalled 3 times today.
Tightened up battery leads. Hasn't stalled since but volt meter always ran above 14. Today almost at 14 needle, sometimes at normal, sometimes right at 14. Not normal for bike.from memory.
Anyhow its started every time so far. Stalling stopped (for now).
Battery is 2 seasons old.
I'm thinking stator dying?
Of course I'm on 1st day of road trip,.700 miles from home on holiday weekend in eureka springs.

Any ideas what to look at?

Know that Ive got limited tools with me, I'm on a Victory, no needed often!!!
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-04-2016, 09:58 AM
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I wouldn't worry too much. Electricity is all about "potential". Look at this way...you need to charge your battery and if the battery is at say 12.5-12.8 volts(normal) and the alternator is putting out 12.5 to 12.8 the voltage is the same so there's no "potential" to flow. The alternator has to put out more voltage so the higher voltage will attempt to flow to the lower voltage, IE "potential".

The gauge on the bike is measuring what the alternator is putting out. Remember, the alternator is supporting all your lights, the ECU of the engine, radio, and any other load you might have on the electrical system AND keeping the battery charged. As you ride long distance the battery stays well charged and requires less of a load so the alternator output drops...again..normal. If you start getting massive fluctuations then I'd worry.

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-04-2016, 12:01 PM
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go to battery store or auto parts store. If they can come out side have them do a load test on battery.
When my battery was dieing the voltage would very. New battery fixed all that.


Jamming
bikes do not have alternators they have a stator. Just so you know

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-04-2016, 02:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by visionjohnny View Post
go to battery store or auto parts store. If they can come out side have them do a load test on battery.
When my battery was dieing the voltage would very. New battery fixed all that.


Jamming
bikes do not have alternators they have a stator. Just so you know
My bad, all my BMW's had alternators(as well as what I usually work on) so I'm just used to the terminology. I'll correct that in the future to avoid confusion...but everything else I stated is applicable. You could load test the battery to be sure that's not it. Walmart sells a decent Multi-meter for about 15$ with a battery tester built in and it's within 2% of my calibrated Fluke meter. I use that one in my garage and travel with it and keep the Fluke locked up

The Victory manual has a great procedure to test the stator(with the bike cold) unplug at the regulator and test resistance(ohms) between the windings and primary to ground. You've got to have a good meter as you're testing for 0.1-0.5 OHMS. you can correct for the internal resistance of your meter and the Victory manual has a good procedure for that. If it comes down to it, PM me, I'll shoot my # and I'll talk you through it or if you have a smartphone I'll copy and paste the procedure into an email and email it out.

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-04-2016, 02:57 PM
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My XCT's run between 14 and 14.5 volts on the gauge when running down the road.

G'day,

Vinish
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-04-2016, 05:31 PM
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Quote:
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My bad, all my BMW's had alternators(as well as what I usually work on) so I'm just used to the terminology. I'll correct that in the future to avoid confusion...
Actually Vic's do have alternators also. The stator is just the name of 1/2 of the alternator. The rotor is the other half. So all is good.

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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-04-2016, 06:15 PM
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Go get load test on battery

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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-04-2016, 07:41 PM
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OP, you said you tightened up the battery but didn't indicate if or how loose they were. That will definitely give you the problem you experienced if they were loose or corroded. You are also running at 14+ volts so that too is as it should be. It's not your stator.

As you say it hasn't happened since I think you found the problem and corrected it and you should be fine. I would suggest you take half an hour and tighten any other high voltage connections and grounds you can get at. Main circuit breaker, starter, regulator connections, etc.

Do keep an eye on it though and as suggested, get your battery checked the next time it's convenient.
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Last edited by 53canuck; 07-04-2016 at 08:06 PM.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-04-2016, 08:34 PM
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Eliminate battery by having full diagnostic done on it. Did it stall when you let out on throttle? If so, IAC voltage out of range. Turn on key, turn on red run switch, let fuel pump prime up, turn off key and let IAC chatter. Repeat two more times.

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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-04-2016, 10:29 PM Thread Starter
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appreciate the insight everyone.

2+ days now, no more stalling. Still some fluctuations but all else seems good.

No starting issues, so it's hard to say it is the battery.

As for how loose the connections, they weren't very loose but the terminals have a lot of road grime. So it wouldn't be hard to have a sketchy connection point with the buildup.

Anyhow,as long as i get home i'm good. Still have a few more days of vacation here, put on a good 250 or so today riding the Ozarks.

Wish me luck. Big heat coming the next few days. Last time I was here in extreme heat I needed a new battery.

Will find out soon.
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