Air horn issues - Victory Forums - Victory Motorcycle Forum
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-22-2016, 12:30 PM Thread Starter
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Question Air horn issues

Hi all,

Looking for pointers on where to look. I've had a Stebel air horn under the fairing on my XC for quite a while now, I followed Paul's video to install (diode and all), and it has always worked like a charm to keep those cagers back in their lanes.

Recently, I installed the Opt-7 LED lights. Due to the extended fans on the back of the lights hitting a wiring harness inside the fairing, I opened things up yesterday, removed a lot of plastic and re-routed wires to make room for the light fans. Now I have room for adjust the headlights properly.

All went well putting things back together, except now the horn doesn't work.

Details:
  1. All wires are reconnected
  2. The relay clicks when I hit the horn button
  3. Voltage goes from 1-3 volts and up to about 24-25 volts when horn button pressed
  4. No fuses appear blown

Could the horn just have randomly gone out at this time? Any other things I should look at.

I'm quite stumped.


Thanks,
Dan

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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-22-2016, 03:39 PM
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Where is the "24-25 volts" being measured? Is this the output of the relay to ground? If so, how do you get 24-25 volts from a system which is at a nominal 12 volts? Something seems strange.

G'day,

Vinish

G'day,

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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-22-2016, 04:42 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vinish View Post
. . . Something seems strange.

G'day,

Vinish
OK, so my bad. mV - milliVolts. Hey, it was dark last night.

Bottom line is: no button push = no juice from relay to horn, button push = yes juice from relay to horn. So that part seems to be working.

D.

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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-22-2016, 05:35 PM
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Air horn runs on millivolts???
Something doesn't sound right. That voltage could actuate the relay but I'd bet the horn needs 12v
I don't know these horns so it's a guess on my part

So if it's an air horn, the air pump generally takes a bit of current to run, my guess 12v. Then it needs a good ground, either a wire runs to ground or the pump body is the ground. If the relay is clicking it sounds like you should have that part of the circuit working

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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-22-2016, 05:42 PM
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Just looked online.
At the horn itself when you hit the relay you should have the same voltage as your battery is.
They use a 20a fuse so they do suck some current.
You should also have a straight ground source at all times.
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-22-2016, 06:03 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bullypack3 View Post
Just looked online.
At the horn itself when you hit the relay you should have the same voltage as your battery is.
They use a 20a fuse so they do suck some current.
You should also have a straight ground source at all times.
Yep, straight from battery ground to horn, + from battery to relay(fuse protected), then to horn, other two relay connections to switch. All per instructions. This worked up until yesterday. Very strange. Even checked horn fuse under side panel, all is well.
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-22-2016, 06:56 PM
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Simplify it by going right to the source.
Take your horn and connect it directly (ground and positive) to your bike battery.
If it doesn't sound, then connect it directly to your car battery.
If the horn sounds on the car, then it is your bike battery.
If it doesn't sound on the car, then it is your horn.

If the bike horn and battery are good, then it is probably the relay.
Since it is clicking when you press the horn button then you most likely have the positive connected to the proper side of the diode.
Do you also have an inline fuse going to the relay? Did you check it?
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Last edited by Pauljp; 12-22-2016 at 07:00 PM.
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-22-2016, 09:06 PM
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Sometimes electrical stuff responds to a hit with a small Hammer...nothing severe just a tap or two may get a lazy horn or wiper motor or starter motor operating again.
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-22-2016, 09:26 PM
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If a small hammer doesn't get you horn working, move up to a larger one, then an even larger one, etc.
Have you tried testing the horn with a jumper wire direct from the battery to the horn itself?
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-22-2016, 09:29 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pauljp View Post
Simplify it by going right to the source.
Take your horn and connect it directly (ground and positive) to your bike battery.
If it doesn't sound, then connect it directly to your car battery.
If the horn sounds on the car, then it is your bike battery.
If it doesn't sound on the car, then it is your horn.

If the bike horn and battery are good, then it is probably the relay.
Since it is clicking when you press the horn button then you most likely have the positive connected to the proper side of the diode.
Do you also have an inline fuse going to the relay? Did you check it?
Thank you Paul. I thought you might have thoughts on that. I just put a trickle charge on the battery tender, in case I was a little low. If that doesn't work, I'll walk through the steps above.

Of course this will all have to wait until after the weekend as we are heading to Galveston tomorrow for the Christmas Holiday.

Cheers to all and a Merry Christmas!

Dan

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Miller Mufflers - Short Baffles
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