Removing Rear Wheel - Victory Forums - Victory Motorcycle Forum
 11Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-01-2017, 10:57 AM Thread Starter
Member
 
VMChief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Crestview, Florida
Posts: 41
Default Removing Rear Wheel

Happy New Year my fellow Vic enthusiasts,

I've decided to remove my rear wheel on my XC today to get the tire replaced. Local shop will swap out the tire and balance for $25. I read the manual, watched the Witch Doctor vid and searched the forum. Before loosening the axel nut, I'll check for side to side play of the wheel to assess wheel bearing wear.

Just a few questions:

1. Should I remove the belt sprocket before taking the wheel assembly to the shop? If so, replace the bolts or reuse & Loctite?
2. Anything I need to lube while apart? The manual says to put a little grease on the axel shaft (I assume to help slide the axel back through during reassembly).
3. Other than eye-balling alignment after reassembly, any tips to ensure the tire is positioned correctly? I'll rotate the tire and check for run out, anything else that needs to be measured?

Thanks in advance!

2012 Cross Country
2008 Vegas Low (for the wife)
2006 Yamaha V-Star 650 (parked for now, but will train the 19 yr-old boy on fixing and riding before long)
Crestview, Florida/Eglin AFB (USAF)

Last edited by VMChief; 01-01-2017 at 11:04 AM.
VMChief is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-01-2017, 11:17 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Hendersonville, NC in summers and The Villages, FL in winters
Posts: 1,460
Default

The axle lube is to help with insertion, to make it easier to remove the next time, and to help prevent corrosion which tends to make it hard to remove the axle. You can use boring old axle grease or pretty much any other grease-like lube. I usually use anti-seize but dang - that stuff gets EVERYWHERE

As for adjustments to the wheel after reinstallation - in theory, if you have not turned the axle alignment bolts, then no adjustment is needed. I find that this is an ideal time to adjust the belt tension and to align the belt. Don't "eyeball" this alignment. There is a very thorough process for belt alignment and tensioning in the service manual.

Removal of the belt sprocket and brake rotor depends on what the shop wants and how much you trust them to do things well without scratching "stuff". I've always left them on without problems. If you do remove them, the service manual says to use new bolts when reattaching the sprocket and brake rotor. However, I have always reused the bolts and put red (permanent) loctite on them. Of course, this means that when I remove these bolts, I have to hit each one with a small propane torch for about 45 seconds to melt/burn the old loctite to allow their removal.

Sorry but I know nothing about the wheel bearings.

G'day,

Vinish
Chattanooga Mark likes this.

G'day,

Vinish

Our patriotic stable:

Red 2012 XCT (wife's bike in NC)
Red 2012 XCT (my bike for NC)
White with custom flames 2012 XCT (wife's bike in FL)
Blue custom fire on a black 2012 XCT (my bike in FL)

2006 HD Softail Heritage (my bike when I was in MI - sold in Oct, 2017 after putting 45,000 miles and 20 states and one province on it - My first big bike and most of us will always remember our first with fond memories)
Vinish is offline  
post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-01-2017, 01:13 PM
Senior Member
 
visionjohnny's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: minnesota
Posts: 12,949
Default

if you're using a jack to lift bike loosen axle nut first.
Get it high enough to pull wheel out at angle.
You do not need to pull rotor. It will not get scratched.
The bike shop might need to take pulley off. Victory has larger then normal pulley size.
It can be a challenge to get axle back in if you don't touch the adjusters.
You check wheel bearings after you get wheel off bike. Stick two fingers in middle of bearing and turn it to see how smooth it is. On bike will not tell you ask shop to check all so.
With wheel off stick screwdriver in between brake pads and twist sideways to spread them open.
When you get wheel underbike before lifting put belt on.
Take your time don't panic

2008 Vision
Mpls, MN.

Please add your state and model of bike you have. Click user CP @ top of page and then far left click edit signature. Thanks
visionjohnny is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-01-2017, 04:01 PM
Lifetime Premium
 
Motorbikerx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Gold Coast, Australia.
Posts: 8,651
Garage
Default

Tyre shop that does mine leaves the rear pulley on the wheel and never touches alignment or belt tension.
They say that done properly the tension / alignments good for the life of the belt.
There's two of them do the refit and it always goes smoothly for the six rears I've had changed to date.
For the extra fifty I get charged I rather let the experts do the whole job.

Victory Vegas 2010
Lloydz 109"cube big bore
" " 495 cams
" " TorqueTubes
" " timing wheel @4 deg.
" " Primary plate
" " IAV
RPW Slash pipes
PCV
Progressive 465 rear shock
Kingpin USD Forks
18" XC front wheel
1 3/4" 'Burleigh Bars'
Stebel air horn
12.106 @110.90mph
114/123

Victory Cross Country 2010 (106)
Lloyds air filter
" " VM1 Cams
Home gutted exhaust
Maximus
Both tuned by [email protected] Dyno
110/116

Gold Coast
Australia
Motorbikerx is offline  
post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-01-2017, 04:17 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Washington State
Posts: 2,245
Default

At some point, perhaps the next tire change, while you have the wheel out you may want to pull the pin for the rear shock/rocker/link assembly and inspect it and re grease it. Mine was turning in the frame because of a defect in the bore the pin went into. Mag's was turning in the frame because some moron at the factory forgot to lube the bearings in the rocker with grease. Ricz had issues with his also.

Your about two thirds of the way to inspecting it once the wheel is out. You'll probably want to plan ahead for that though.
visionjohnny and Motorbikerx like this.

presently owned bikes
2014 XC 8 ball that no longer stalls
1993 HD fxrp
1982 HD Sturgis
2009 Honda rebel
co owner
1991 gl1500 A w/ Champion Daytona 2+2 sidecar.
"God works both good and evil in a mans' life and you deal with it as best you can" Somebody..
Joe_ is offline  
post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-01-2017, 08:22 PM
Senior Member
 
RICZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Portland,Oregon
Posts: 12,121
Default

To remove the rear wheel, I lift the bike high enough to work under the rear. With either a scissors/platform jack or car wheel jack placed under the rear wheel, I apply just enough lift to unweight the wheel to make it easier to remove the shock link bolts. Then I lower the jack until the swing arm stops and unweight the wheel again to aid axle removal. Then lower the jack and the wheel with it. No muscle work required, except on the 3 nuts. A 2' or longer cheater bar helps, or an impact driver.

2010 Midnight Cherry XR. 7Jurock, Lloydz AF, ATS, AFR tuned VFCIII, IAV, and T-6 and locally repacked pipes = big smiles. SOLD to a dear friend, so it's still in the family."
2017 Spyder F3 Limited - keeps this old guy in the wind and riding with friends.
Cure that ugly stand up license plate with the cheapest and best laydown bracket. Click this:
https://www.victoryforums.com/11-ven...t-x-bikes.html
RICZ is offline  
post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-03-2017, 12:10 PM
Senior Member
 
PaiN's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: CT, USA
Posts: 4,040
Garage
Default

All great advice from the peanut gallery One more tip, remove the rear brake pads from caliper before replacing the rim and tire, this will make the job much easier.
SemperVee and LILMAGS500 like this.

PaiN's Rides on YouTube

"Living life is a great idea, but riding a motorcycle actually gives you a tool to do it..." -me
2013 Sunset Red Cross Country
Vic Tri-Oval Mufflers, Lloydz VM1-DR cams, AF, PC-V @112hp/113tq
Corbin Dual Tour seat, Klock Werks Klip Hanger bars, Vicwapz
Avon Contour grips, Kuryakyn Kinetic boards and rear SwingWings
Victory black LED headlight and Touring Pack, Madstad 9" windshield
PaiN is offline  
post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-03-2017, 12:14 PM
Super Moderator
 
broggyr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Naugatuck, CT
Posts: 6,368
Garage
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by pain View Post
all great advice from the peanut gallery one more tip, remove the rear brake pads from caliper before replacing the rim and tire, this will make the job much easier.
Definitely THIS!!



2013 XCT, Boardwalk Blue w/ Vicwrapz
S&S Cams, Lloydz filter & ATS +3, PCV, UD pulley, Alto Red Eagle clutch plates
Madstad Windshield, 5000K HID, TriOvals, Memphis Shields wings, Ultimate seat
JVC KD-X35MDT, PBR300X4, Polk DB6502, DaytonAudio ND140-4 rear
HyperLites, LED driving lights, Lloydz dyno 105+H and 117+T
Arlen Ness blinkers, KlockWerks KlipHanger bars, Avon grips

Spectro Golden 4 20w40 for Victory L.SG424, Kury Sabertooth LEDs
THE FEW, THE PROUD, THE OBSCURE. TTWFO2
broggyr is offline  
post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-04-2017, 05:33 PM
Senior Member
 
Luciferiad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Twin Falls, ID
Posts: 1,292
Garage
Default

All of this and also: air tools.
broggyr likes this.

You can call me Billy. Or Luci. But don't call me Shirley.

Mine:
2011 Cross Roads, crimson red
Lloyd'z ATS, IAV, VFC-III. Vic "High Performance" air filter. Ness Big Honkers. Funsies.

Hers
2015 Vegas 8-Ball

My musings:www.billyrulez.wordpress.com
Luciferiad is offline  
post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-08-2017, 08:12 AM
Lifetime Premium
 
Jamming's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 430
Garage
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by visionjohnny View Post
if you're using a jack to lift bike loosen axle nut first.
Get it high enough to pull wheel out at angle.
You do not need to pull rotor. It will not get scratched.
The bike shop might need to take pulley off. Victory has larger then normal pulley size.
It can be a challenge to get axle back in if you don't touch the adjusters.
You check wheel bearings after you get wheel off bike. Stick two fingers in middle of bearing and turn it to see how smooth it is. On bike will not tell you ask shop to check all so.
With wheel off stick screwdriver in between brake pads and twist sideways to spread them open.
When you get wheel underbike before lifting put belt on.
Take your time don't panic
If the shop has to take off the pulley, they don't have the right machine and I wouldn't let them touch my wheel. The bolts attaching the pulley are a one use item and need to be replaced if you remove them. I know plenty of you think I'm wrong and that's fine. it's your life. Victory mandates replacement of bolts if removed or loosened. Those bolts are in tension and shear stresses and there's plenty of cases where people on this very forum have had failures of those very bolts. My neighbor just had a failure of his pulley bolts on an HD superglide AFTER an independant shop did his tires, he asked if they removed his pulley and they did and did not replace the bolts and now he's fighting with the shop to recoup some money. I recently had surgery on my right wrist and elbow so I couldn't change his tires on my machine and he needed the tires, I did talk him through the repair while I watched. He got lucky and didn't do much damage. Replaced the pulley and bolts, cleaned up the flange and he was good to go. I am in the habit of checking the torque of any belt drive pulley I touch. If it's loose...I replace.
BenD likes this.

I eat, breathe, live, love and ride motorcycles.

4 wheels move the body, 2 wheels move the soul.

2014 Cross Country
Wiseco fueler, Lloyds timing gear +4, Thrush modded mufflers and LLoyds air filter.
Jamming is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Victory Forums - Victory Motorcycle Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome