Bought this Victory kit and installed it yesterday. All went well until the last step. "Locate constant power from the right hand side aluminum fairing frame and connect Power in". The 2 wires in question from the auxiliary harness supplied have a large male blade end and a small male blade end. Found the wire on the factory harness marked power and plugged the large male blade end into it. No other connectors on the right hand side to plug the small male blade end in. Has anyone installed this Victory kit? What have I or Victory missed to finish this install?
You piggy back them to your power outlet , if you already installed the volume , you will need to remove it to access the plug ... They dont tell you that ......:crzy:
I just picked up a extreme audio 6 speaker kit at a steal from an online vendor. sadly, it didn't come with any install paperwork, well that's not entirely true. i got paperwork for installation of a heel toe shifter kit. could someone please scan and post or email their instructions if anyone still has them?
I just picked up a extreme audio 6 speaker kit at a steal from an online vendor. sadly, it didn't come with any install paperwork, well that's not entirely true. i got paperwork for installation of a heel toe shifter kit. could someone please scan and post or email their instructions if anyone still has them?
I can scan the instructions that came with my kit (last week) and email them to you as a pdf if you like. Just send me a private message on this forum and I'll get them to you.
I haven't installed this kit in my CCT yet. But I have read a few posts about the instructions not mentioning using the 12VDC cigarette lighter in the fairing as the power source. Also to connect to that power source before installing the drivers left/installers right 'volume'. Otherwise known as a speaker enclosure.
If anyone else needs the instructions just let me know. I have them saved as a pdf. The instructions that came with my kit last week are labeled Rev 02 11/14. I have no idea if there's a later version.
But I think the step some people are having issue with is step 25e on page 8. They tell you to "Locate constant power from the right hand side aluminum fairing frame and connect Power In.". This must be the Installer's Right or the Rider's Left. From reading posts by others, they're talking about pigging backing off the 12VDC cigarette lighter power supply in the fairing. I'll try to connect to that prior to installing the Right Speaker Volume, which I call the speaker cabinet.
I got about 90% through my extreme audio fairing kit installation tonight. I slowed myself down a bit by also installing the painted inner dash I bought a few months ago. In hindsight, I should have left the inner dash off until I mounted the two main speakers. Getting to one of the mounting screws was a real hassle. Even with a ball end 4mm allen wrench.
Plea for assistance: If anyone finds the person or persons responsible for designing in the two screws under and in back of the center lower fairing section please kick them very hard in each shin. Then publicly name the person or persons so others may also join in publicly shaming them.
I agree with those who say the instructions are pretty poor. My audio kit harness connections aren't labeled at all. I'm not sure which original 'speaker in' wires, right side or left, go to which audio kit harness connections. Hopefully I'll be able to figure that out by looking at the wiring diagram. But the original speaker connection wire colors don't match the audio kit's harness anyway. The connections on the audio kit's harness that goes to the original amp, the new speaker enclosures, the 12VDC connections and the Gray GPS connections are all easy to figure out. But not which side of the original speaker connection wires goes to which audio kit harness connection. If anyone knows, please post it.
Yes, the 12VDC power connection is a real pain. The audio kit's wiring harness simply isn't long enough for me to run it under the right speaker box to the back of the 12VDC cigarette lighter. It couldn't go over the top because it's not long enough for that either. It also can't go in between the speaker enclosure and the aluminum fairing mount structure. If I ran it in between, the speaker enclosure mounting screw and the 4 speaker mounting screws wouldn't line up due to the harness pushing it out too far. So what I'm doing is running two separate wires to the 12DVC connection, one black and one gray just like the original wires. I'm running those two wires along the bottom of the speaker enclosure and then routing them through an access hole in the aluminum fairing mount structure. Now I need to connect the four Gray wires to each other and the four black wires to each other. I don't have the right connections so I'll finish it up tomorrow afternoon.
I knew you couldn't use both the factory XM radio and the factory HID headlight with this audio kit. But I wasn't sure that you also can't use the factory integrated GPS mount either. The GPS gray connection is also used by the fairing audio kit. I never bought the Victory GPS mount but I did remove my factory XM radio. I'm keeping with the factory HID headlight system as I like it quite well. The factory XM radio has been sold to a local CCT owner.
I found no time where I needed a voltmeter with this installation. I've had and used them for decades but one shouldn't be needed for this. Unless you want to ensure you didn't blow the 20AMP mini ACC fuse for some reason. But under normal conditions, no multimeter is needed to install this system.
What is needed is to identify the Right and Left wire colors to ensure proper connections are made from the original harness to the new harness. Polaris didn't see the need to label any of the connections on the new harness. So I simply had to compare the original wire colors with the new audio harness wire colors. Pretty simple and straightforward but hopefully this will help others save time and frustration: http://www.victoryforums.com/34-vic...lation-hopefully-made-easier.html#post2362554
It sounds great and makes me anxious to install the Saddlebag Extreme Audio kit next.
I found two major issues with the instructions. As already identified, connect the power first, then put the speaker baffle in on the left side (driver's view in the saddle), and... The picture of the mounting of the amp for the bracket over the radio module is wrong. You have to make sure the connector points towards the power outlet side, or the harness isn't going to make it.
Generally I'm happy with the results though.. And yeah, mine was a bit easier as I did the painted dash at the same time, so old dash off, kit in, new dash on.
Hello all, I just purchased this kit and have read all the issues with the instructions. One in particular is that the picture of the amp mount is wrong and needs to point towards the power source. However, the amp can only mount one way to the bracket. The bracket can only mount one way to the radio. This puts the harness connection pointing away from the power source. Is there another way to mount the amp so the harness reaches the power source?
I was finally able to get out for a ride this evening. A couple of observations on the fairing audio kit and the painted inner fairing:
1. The Victory Extreme Audio Fairing kit works quite well. I was only at speeds up to about 65mph but the volume set at 10 worked fine. I was wearing a Victory half helmet. I have Raging Cajun Medium Low & Throaty mufflers.
2. The painted inner fairing seems to have added some squeaks I never heard before. Perhaps it will take a bit for the inner fairing mating surface to 'wear in' a bit for this to stop.
3. Now I'm even more anxious to get the saddlebag extreme audio kit installed.
1. The Victory Extreme Audio Fairing kit works quite well. I was only at speeds up to about 65mph but the volume set at 10 worked fine. I was wearing a Victory half helmet. I have Raging Cajun Medium Low & Throaty mufflers.
Yea, I found out my iPhone was only at about 50% volume. Maybe that 's why. I'll be on the bike again for several hundred miles tomorrow and I'll play around with it a bit.
If your phone is connected to the iPod hookup in the saddle bag it shouldn't matter where you have the phone's volume set.
FWIW I have the same Vic kit and use an old iPod. If I'm on the highway I need the volume to be around 10 to hear the lyrics. I've not used the radio since I've installed the kit but maybe less volume is needed if the radio is used.
Well, i used a combination of 80% marks instructions, 15% personal experience and 5% of the communists propaganda papers that mother victory sent to me. seriously, not one person checked to see if the instructions worked. and i got revision 2. Any way The speakers sound much louder, not better, just louder but at highway speeds you cant really tell the difference. But.... I left the kicker speakers in the fairing because the magnets were so much bigger than the "extreme" ones that came in the kit. Am i going to kick myself later.
I think you'll be fine with the Kicker speakers. You also added the other four speakers with the kit so you likely have a better sounding "extreme audio" system than the rest of us.
I did about 350 miles today at mostly legal (70mph) and, well, faster than that speeds. I had my fairing speakers set between 7 and 10. It really depended on the music as well as the surrounding sounds. Wide open highway needed a slightly different volume setting than when I was climbing the mountain with rock walls next to me. With or without the concrete or metal lane dividing barriers also makes a difference. Of course car and truck noises vary considerably as well. Having different windshield heights, with/without tank risers, Lloyds v K&N v oem air filter, full, 3/4, half helmet and helmet fit etc likely also make a big difference. Plus add in the differences between exhaust, engine mods plus our own hearing differences and, well, the variations continue to compound.
At the end I was listening to a Podcast which just had two male voices. If I leaned down and forward like I was tucking in behind the windshield, the sound was very muddled distorted. When I sat upright and back at a more 'normal' position, the sound was clear as could be. But at or above triple digit speeds with the tach steadily past 4000, well, much of the sound is simply lost. At speeds where the tach stayed around 2800, a volume setting of 7 was all that was needed in most instances. I also still have my oem CCT trunk rear speakers. I suspect once I install the extreme audio saddlebag kit, the volume settings will change again.
In the end, I got a huge kick out of listening to music through the fairing kit. I've only ever used a bluetooth Sena helmet system with a Shark Evoline ST 3 full face helmet. Now I'm using my Victory half helmet a lot. I think Polaris did an admiral job of putting this system together. Yes, their instructions continue to be well below par and many of the components are price sourced. But the system does work well. Especially at the blowout prices. At full Polaris MSRP, I would have shopped around for an aftermarket system. But it's hard to beat factory plug & play at 60% off MSRP. It's a real shame Polaris discontinued all the pieces of the Extreme Audio setup.
Well I installed the stereo today. And Yesterday. Lol. My buddy told me, after I read the instructions, that I would need access to the fairing socket. Too late. As others have found out, you can't get there from here after the 'volume' was installed. I found the wires that lead to the fairing socket and piggybacked into them. I also had to find a new home for my airhorn because the passenger side 'volume' eradicated it's former home. Anyway, I wondered if whomever it was that authored those instructions got wind Polaris was shutting down Victory and just wrote stuff down to fill the pages. They were among the worst I have ever seen. The lack of labelling on the harness was also brutal. If it wasn't for some helpful advice from members here and a few other sources, I'd be installing the stereo tomorrow too. But everything works, so I'm a happy rider.
Well, my 12volt socket on the dash has gone dead. secret fuse is good, 12volt in trunk has power. My first hunch is that the T splice that the kit used for power might be to blame. but it is nestled between speaker pod and the frame. My issue is that the pod does not want to come out. i removed the hex screw behind the grill, and the one at the bottom of the pod. It looks like there is some form of push grommet directly inboard from the speaker to the frame. the whole pod wiggles but i dont want to just yank on it. any suggestions? is there a third screw under or behind the speaker itself?
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