New Owner Pointers
If you ever remove the tank, careful not to break the plastic nipple in the back, and try not to let the rubber washers back there fall into black holes.
- Side Covers:
Make sure they're well seated. And maybe periodically buy new grommets. And I added heat-shrink to the forward/upper barb on each side; not my idea (I read about it here or on the other board), but it works great (pic in my gallery). And I relocated the rear-shock Schrader valve, so I don't have to mess with the right side cover.
- Clutch Cable:
Grease the ball ends with every oil change.
- Passenger Boards:
If the mounts are similar to the XCT, keep an eye on the circlip that holds the bolt/pin in place.
If they still use dzus fasteners, you might want to replace them with nuts and bolts.
- Saddlebag Latch:
Check the right side for wear. If it appears, bend the hoop or add a washer underneath the front latch-fastener bolt.
- Battery Bolts:
Tighten them periodically. Even after adding toothed washers, and blue loctite (bottom half) and dielectric grease (top half), mine still came loose last year.
- Fork Guards:
You'll probably break them at some point, cleaning the bike. I have metal ones now, and had them painted by Goody (and gave away my plastic ones, before actually breaking either one).
- Plug Wires:
I've read that they're easy to separate, so heads up if you ever mess with them. When I went to iridium plugs, I had also ordered new wires, figuring that I might wreck the old ones, taking them off.
- Lower Pods:
If you had an XCT, we could discuss keeping the lowers in place on the crash guards. But you don't, so I won't.
I think that's it for the common "gotchas."
I swear, I'm not trying to start an oil thread, and please don't let this degenerate into one. But the specific question was asked, so I'll comment: I've been using "Royal Purple Max Cycle 10W-40 High Performance Synthetic Motorcycle Oil" about every 5,000 miles since about 15,000 miles -- that's four of those oil changes now -- and haven't had a problem. And I sent two of those old oil samples to Blackstone Labs, to make me feel better. Whether that oil is better than anything else, I have no idea ... but I would assert that it's at least okay. (I use K&N 198 filters, only because I like the 17mm nut on the end of them.)
Hope some of this is useful. I'll let everyone else discuss exhaust and engine mods -- not my field.
[Edit: forgot some:]
- Gas Gauge:
The gauge is non-linear, picking up steam as the tank empties. The Low Fuel warning comes on about as the gauge hits bottom, at which point you have 40 or 50 miles left (verified by my running out of gas once). Get over it, and get used to it.
- Gas Cap:
Most of us seem to have better luck filling from the left side of the bike. Feel free to experiment, and watch out for slop-overs (depending on nozzle speed).
I found that the return-throw on the shifter required more up-travel than I was used to; make sure you bring your foot up. And if you're used to the other American V-Twin brand, shift at higher revs. And if you're used to a bike that "snicks" instead of "thunks," use more oomph in shifting, and maybe pre-load it. And maybe buy a heel-shifter. And certainly give it some gas before shifting to 2nd from a stop, or the automatic neutral finder will find neutral if you try that at walking speed.
2012 XCT (SOLD)
: HeliBars; Centramatics; PC-V; Lloydz air filter; 11" Madstad; Rivco LED mirrors; Doran TPMS; Stebel horn; Motolights; CustomLED trunk flasher; KewlHeel shifter; CycleOps trunk rack; BeadRider seat; Vibranator bar ends; Passenger grab handles; Powerlet outlets; Handlebar RAM mount; RicZ laydown plate; Brukus SaddlebagSecure; 14" flexible antenna; RAM cupholder on trunk; shock Schrader valve relocation.
Last edited by wspollack; 04-28-2017 at 09:56 AM.