pointers and issues form new owner? - Victory Forums - Victory Motorcycle Forum
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-27-2017, 06:13 PM Thread Starter
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Default pointers and issues form new owner?

All right guys now that I got my CC what are some of the issues and stuff that need attention? What are the best upgrades? Can it be lowered without issues? Give me info guys!

I've always used Royal Purple oil and a wix filter in my 07 Hammer. Are the filters the same and any issues with going to Royal Purple after the first 500 miles? Are there any things that should keep me from doing my own 500 mile service? I am extremely mechanically oriented.

looking at exhaust clips on youtube I thought the RC Components mufflers rocked! any input on exhaust?

Just feed me guys
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-27-2017, 07:00 PM
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First off Archie, congrats on a very wise selection of bikes. Secondly; What are the issues when it comes to a Victory? Here they are:___________________. There you have it. Most problems arise form poor or no maintenance of things that should be maintained, like cleaning and lubing the clutch cable ends. That prevents their breaking. Never lube the cable itself, its coated with a nylon material and some lubes will eat it. Also frequently check the clutch adjustment.
Is that purple oil JASO-MA rated? If not, don't use it. Many here use Rotella T-6 a full syn that's now JASO-MA2 rated and if bought right can cost under $20/gallon. Yes, you can do your own 500 mile service if you document everything is done that a shop would have done. Again, if you bought right, you had the dealer include that in the purchase.
If I were to recommend just one mod, it would be the Lloydz adjustable timing wheel. If you're doing pipes, then do the Lloydz air filter too.
The front brakes can benefit from upgrading to EBC HH pads. A dramatic improvement. I prefer GG pads in the read for better control back there. A lot less grabby.
Why do you want to lower a wonderfully handling bike and limit its lean angle? You don't live in Florida. Instead, think about a lower saddle, either go to a saddle customizer (my preference) or buy the Vic low saddle. I know someone who has one she doesn't need.
I hope this helps.
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-27-2017, 07:11 PM
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I will add to adjust your drive belt after you've given it a good flogging to bed it in.
There's whole threads on such and I won't go into it here.
Except to say keep it simple.
Congratulations on your purchase!
Victory--We Ride!
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Victory Vegas 2010
Lloydz 109"cube big bore
" " 495 cams
" " TorqueTubes
" " timing wheel @4 deg.
" " Primary plate
" " IAV
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114/123

Victory Cross Country 2010 (106)
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" " VM1 Cams
Home gutted exhaust
Maximus
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-27-2017, 09:35 PM
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No other issues then these darn tires wearing out, ha,

Do you still have your hammer? I read royal purple is a very good oil, agreed with @RICZ for the compatible rating, if it is then go ahead... Most of us do our own 500 or any service coz it is the details that counts...

Any pictures of your hammer and CC?

Andre using TaPaTaLk
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-28-2017, 04:17 AM Thread Starter
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I picked her up on Tuesday because it was the only day the whole week that it was not supposed to rain so I put 200 miles on her the first day and now I anxiously await for the weather to break so I can put more on her. Here she is next to her sister on the first day at home


at the dealership - had the sold sticker with my name on it! I was so excited and nervous. First brand new vehicle that I've ever purchased. Always said there was no way I could justify it lol. so much for that.



I always used Rotella in my numerous Hondas that I have had.... If members have no issues and recommend it in our Vics then I just may go that route. It can be had for cheap and local.

RICZ: Thanks for the great info! as far as lowering it is just for visual appeal, I'm 6'2 and have no issues with ride height.

2016 Cross Country
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1979 Solar Gold Trans Am
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Last edited by archaicguy; 04-28-2017 at 04:35 AM.
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-28-2017, 04:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by archaicguy View Post



RICZ: Thanks for the great info! as far as lowering it is just for visual appeal, I'm 6'2 and have no issues with ride height.
Nice bike dude, love the blacked out on gray look.

As for lowering
Just saying

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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-28-2017, 09:08 AM
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Default New Owner Pointers

- Tank:

If you ever remove the tank, careful not to break the plastic nipple in the back, and try not to let the rubber washers back there fall into black holes.

- Side Covers:

Make sure they're well seated. And maybe periodically buy new grommets. And I added heat-shrink to the forward/upper barb on each side; not my idea (I read about it here or on the other board), but it works great (pic in my gallery). And I relocated the rear-shock Schrader valve, so I don't have to mess with the right side cover.

- Clutch Cable:

Grease the ball ends with every oil change.

- Passenger Boards:

If the mounts are similar to the XCT, keep an eye on the circlip that holds the bolt/pin in place.

- Saddlebags:

If they still use dzus fasteners, you might want to replace them with nuts and bolts.

- Saddlebag Latch:

Check the right side for wear. If it appears, bend the hoop or add a washer underneath the front latch-fastener bolt.

- Battery Bolts:

Tighten them periodically. Even after adding toothed washers, and blue loctite (bottom half) and dielectric grease (top half), mine still came loose last year.

- Fork Guards:

You'll probably break them at some point, cleaning the bike. I have metal ones now, and had them painted by Goody (and gave away my plastic ones, before actually breaking either one).

- Plug Wires:

I've read that they're easy to separate, so heads up if you ever mess with them. When I went to iridium plugs, I had also ordered new wires, figuring that I might wreck the old ones, taking them off.

- Lower Pods:

If you had an XCT, we could discuss keeping the lowers in place on the crash guards. But you don't, so I won't.

I think that's it for the common "gotchas."

- Oil:

I swear, I'm not trying to start an oil thread, and please don't let this degenerate into one. But the specific question was asked, so I'll comment: I've been using "Royal Purple Max Cycle 10W-40 High Performance Synthetic Motorcycle Oil" about every 5,000 miles since about 15,000 miles -- that's four of those oil changes now -- and haven't had a problem. And I sent two of those old oil samples to Blackstone Labs, to make me feel better. Whether that oil is better than anything else, I have no idea ... but I would assert that it's at least okay. (I use K&N 198 filters, only because I like the 17mm nut on the end of them.)

Hope some of this is useful. I'll let everyone else discuss exhaust and engine mods -- not my field.

[Edit: forgot some:]

- Gas Gauge:

The gauge is non-linear, picking up steam as the tank empties. The Low Fuel warning comes on about as the gauge hits bottom, at which point you have 40 or 50 miles left (verified by my running out of gas once). Get over it, and get used to it.

- Gas Cap:

Most of us seem to have better luck filling from the left side of the bike. Feel free to experiment, and watch out for slop-overs (depending on nozzle speed).

- Shifter:

I found that the return-throw on the shifter required more up-travel than I was used to; make sure you bring your foot up. And if you're used to the other American V-Twin brand, shift at higher revs. And if you're used to a bike that "snicks" instead of "thunks," use more oomph in shifting, and maybe pre-load it. And maybe buy a heel-shifter. And certainly give it some gas before shifting to 2nd from a stop, or the automatic neutral finder will find neutral if you try that at walking speed.
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Cheers,

Bill P.

2012 XCT (SOLD) : HeliBars; Centramatics; PC-V; Lloydz air filter; 11" Madstad; Rivco LED mirrors; Doran TPMS; Stebel horn; Motolights; CustomLED trunk flasher; KewlHeel shifter; CycleOps trunk rack; BeadRider seat; Vibranator bar ends; Passenger grab handles; Powerlet outlets; Handlebar RAM mount; RicZ laydown plate; Brukus SaddlebagSecure; 14" flexible antenna; RAM cupholder on trunk; shock Schrader valve relocation.

Gallery: http://www.billanddot.com/victory-xct/

Last edited by wspollack; 04-28-2017 at 09:56 AM.
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-28-2017, 11:09 AM
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Bill has added some good info to which I will add a few notes as the voice of experience, some not-so-good.
TANK
When removing the tank, its best to have it as empty as possible as its a bear to carry. The manual sez to disconnect the fuel line at the lower end, but that led to disaster for me. I find it best to lift the tank and disconnect the fuel line from the pump/filter nipple. Disconnecting it from below led to breaking that nipple. If you ever do that, I have a repair for that.
Like Bill said, place a rag in the frame hole aft of the tank so the rubber grommets don't fall into it, and they will fall.
PLUG WIRES
Apply dielectric grease to the plug porcelains and the coil nipples for easier removal, they tend to glue themselves there. After hose washing, immediately blow the water out of the plug recesses to prevent corrosion. I use a leaf blower.
SHIFTING
Adjust the shifter down to when your boot slides under it, all the slack is taken up. I agree with Bill, preload the shifter - that is, apply some upward pressure so that when you pull in the clutch, you'll get smoother and quieter shifts.
GAS CAP
Unlike Bill, I find it easier to fuel from the right side with the bars turned to the left. This way, I can see what's happening.
I'm not trying to discredit anything Bill said, its all good, but as I tell my wife; There's more than one way to garden. (in-joke)
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2010 Midnight Cherry XR. 7Jurock, Lloydz AF, ATS, AFR tuned VFCIII, IAV, and T-6 and locally repacked pipes = big smiles. SOLD to a dear friend, so it's still in the family."
2017 Spyder F3 Limited - keeps this old guy in the wind and riding with friends.
Cure that ugly stand up license plate with the cheapest and best laydown bracket. Click this:
https://www.victoryforums.com/11-ven...t-x-bikes.html

Last edited by RICZ; 04-28-2017 at 11:12 AM.
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-28-2017, 01:39 PM
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I think you should use oem oil till you get 1500 miles on it before switching. That way you know everything is seated in good.
I hope you have good aventures on your new bike
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-28-2017, 01:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by archaicguy View Post
I picked her up on Tuesday because it was the only day the whole week that it was not supposed to rain so I put 200 miles on her the first day and now I anxiously await for the weather to break so I can put more on her. Here she is next to her sister on the first day at home


at the dealership - had the sold sticker with my name on it! I was so excited and nervous. First brand new vehicle that I've ever purchased. Always said there was no way I could justify it lol. so much for that.



I always used Rotella in my numerous Hondas that I have had.... If members have no issues and recommend it in our Vics then I just may go that route. It can be had for cheap and local.

RICZ: Thanks for the great info! as far as lowering it is just for visual appeal, I'm 6'2 and have no issues with ride height.
I just picked up the same bike a few weeks ago, do the 1/4 turn throttle ring, makes a big difference on how the bike performs, I still haven't made up my mind on what exhaust I want but I did drill the back of the stock exhaust and gave it a little more sound and added the tips. And don't forget to order the license plate bracket from RICZ..
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