Audio upgrade - Victory Forums - Victory Motorcycle Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 10:23 PM Thread Starter
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Default Audio upgrade

Started on the upgrade recently.

Kenwood KMM-BT318U head unit from Eric "E-Bo" Walker
Metra Axxess ASWC-1 controller
DS18 Candy 5 amp
Polk DB+ 6502 6.5 components
V-Twin Audio 6.5" speaker adapters
Speaker lids from Gino at Sykotic Industries
Rockford Fosgate PM282H-B 8" speakers



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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-20-2017, 02:17 AM
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Sweet! How does it sound?

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2015 Victory Cross Country Tour 7/30/16 - 12/31/16

Lloydz ATS +4 and O2's disabled
Ultimate Seat and Driver Backrest
Alpine SPR-50 for front speakers and Polk Audio DB522 for the trunk speakers
Kuryakyn LED speaker grills
Michelin Commander II front and rear tires
Wolo Bad Boy air horn
Fusion LED kit for the whole bike
Tinted Klock Werks Flare (for winter riding due to fogging up)

Jax, FL
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-20-2017, 05:21 AM
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@Diamond Jim...... Why am I not surprised that your "audio upgrade" is something completely special
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-20-2017, 09:09 AM
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What did you have to do to fit that head unit?


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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-20-2017, 09:19 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MaddogUSMC View Post
Sweet! How does it sound?

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Has a nice, clean, surrounding sound. Running all 4 Ohm speakers so that's 80W RMS per. 2 Ohm nets 120W RMS per. The 5th channel, dedicated for a sub, remains unused. All speakers have a range down to 35Hz and a sensitivity of 93 DB. Obviously it doesn't have the very low end punch that compliments dance and hip hop, but the 8" RFs in the lids fill out the sound for classic rock quite well. The sound is very balanced and enveloping that I'd akin to listening to live music in a cool jazz or blues club. The orientation of the tweeters really cement the overall sound stage.

The Candy 5's sub channel offers 150-320W RMS depending on subwoofer resistance. I suspect adding a sub would sound best while parked or slow cruising on the boulevard but would likely wash out at highway speeds. I'm contemplating adding a tactile transducer under the seat for perceived low end vs subwoofer.

A big thumbs up for the Candy 5 amp if someone is looking for a competitively priced, minimalistic but capable amp with considerable flexibility. Lots of good ones out there. Add the Candy 5 to that list.

The Kenwood deck arrived pre-wired, including the Axxess controller which preserves handlebar controls, thanks to Eric "E-bo" Walker. It's about as plug-n-play as possible. Install was easy with connectors connecting to the factory wiring harness after the stock radio is removed. If adding an amp I think the only wire from the Kenwood that needs anything is the switchable power wire. I extended it by maybe 10" and ran it to the amp. The head unit is every bit a key to the sound, if not more, than the amp. It provides an impressive amount of adjustment including a 13 band EQ. It also offers an equally impressive amount of flexibility with 2 USB ports (faceplate and rear), dual Bluetooth inputs, and a mic for phone calls through the stereo. I'm currently using the mini iPod that previously resided in the saddlebag. I think I'll permanently connect a 32GB flash drive to the rear USB port for my favorite songs and then use the faceplate's USB port for the flavor of the week.

This is my first ever motorcycle audio install. If you've ever installed a new radio and amp in a car then this is even easier, IMO. This setup is a nice blend of power, simplicity and flexibility. I think the keys to the sound quality are the control over the output offered by the Kenwood, the tweeter orientation for the sound stage and the cone area of the 8" lid speakers filling in the low end. Very balanced without any frequency range dominating the overall sound. Just what I wanted.



For the amp I made a stainless steel mounting plate, powder coated then added a decorative matching orange cover with rounded wire access holes. I've seen pics of installs with wire running all directions. I wanted to do a clean install with all the wiring consolidated within the fairing support brackets. Why the decorative cover? Because I can. Although no one will actually see the setup in person, just knowing it's super clean is somehow priceless.
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Last edited by Diamond Jim; 05-20-2017 at 09:28 AM.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-20-2017, 09:39 AM Thread Starter
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What did you have to do to fit that head unit?


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Remove stock radio, remove the pair of dash switches/covers. Faceplate has extensions added on the back that snap into the slots for the switches. The body of the deck mounts where the stock radio body was. Snap wiring harness connectors together and you have power and handlebar controls. Plug in antenna, if desired.

The rest is all speaker wires and, if adding an amp, RCA cables from deck to amp, power to amp, switchable power from deck to amp. Deck has front and rear RCA and subwoofer RCA.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-20-2017, 07:01 PM
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That is awesome! Glad you got desired results! Thanks for sharing the information!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk

2015 Victory Cross Country Tour 7/30/16 - 12/31/16

Lloydz ATS +4 and O2's disabled
Ultimate Seat and Driver Backrest
Alpine SPR-50 for front speakers and Polk Audio DB522 for the trunk speakers
Kuryakyn LED speaker grills
Michelin Commander II front and rear tires
Wolo Bad Boy air horn
Fusion LED kit for the whole bike
Tinted Klock Werks Flare (for winter riding due to fogging up)

Jax, FL
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-20-2017, 11:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diamond Jim View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by beard_life View Post
What did you have to do to fit that head unit?


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Remove stock radio, remove the pair of dash switches/covers. Faceplate has extensions added on the back that snap into the slots for the switches. The body of the deck mounts where the stock radio body was.
Jim, did you have to cut/trim the switch holes to fit the head unit? I have the HMD "center punch" kit on order but I'm not thrilled about having to glue/mold a piece on the dash.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-21-2017, 01:38 AM Thread Starter
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Jim, did you have to cut/trim the switch holes to fit the head unit? I have the HMD "center punch" kit on order but I'm not thrilled about having to glue/mold a piece on the dash.
Not sure about the HMD inner fairing, but for stock fairing the faceplate has what is essentially two switch housing permanently affixed to the back of the faceplate. Imagine the body of this switch- the faceplate has one on each end that line up with the stock switch holes. Pretty ingenious and very solid.

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-21-2017, 07:43 AM
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I see what you mean... Very clever. So the only faceplate is in that display/switch area, the unit itself is where the stock radio was? With the HMD the whole head unit goes in the display/switch area.
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