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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-09-2017, 09:36 PM Thread Starter
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Default Suggestions needed

Been almost a month now since I purchased my 2013 CCT and I love this bike overall but it does some serious popping on deceleration. I've spent the last 2 days reading threads on this and I'm just more confused right now. Here's what I know about my CCT that I purchased from an Indian dealer. I found out who the previous owner was and gave him a call. I remember that he mentioned he had a stage one exhaust but prior to trading it in he put the stock mufflers back on. He did not install a timing wheel and I do not know what type of air filter is installed. The O2 sensors are connected. This bike pops more on deceleration than my Kawasaki 900 did. Some people like this, I find it very annoying. I'm really not interested in purchasing tuners but if that takes care of the problem I guess I don't have a choice. So, what do you all suggest?

I did purchase the Victory (K&N) air filter for 2 reasons 1) because I got it for 75% off 2) because I always purchase K&N filters for my vehicles because I'm cheap and the K&N is cleanable and reusable. But I have not installed this air filter yet.
Will installing this make the problem better or worse?

2013 CCT Boardwalk Blue
Trapped in the Republik of Illinois

"When you are dead, you don't know that you are dead. It is difficult only for the others.....It is the same when you are Stupid"
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-09-2017, 09:53 PM
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First and easiest thing is to check your header bolts where the pipes come out of the jugs. If the bolts are a little loose or you see black soot you have a leak and that will make it pop badly. You might get away with just tightening them up.

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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-09-2017, 10:03 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob C350 View Post
First and easiest thing is to check your header bolts where the pipes come out of the jugs. If the bolts are a little loose or you see black soot you have a leak and that will make it pop badly. You might get away with just tightening them up.
Been meaning to order Lloydz throttle ring,so maybe I'll order some new crush washers just to make sure all that is covered.
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"When you are dead, you don't know that you are dead. It is difficult only for the others.....It is the same when you are Stupid"
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-09-2017, 10:06 PM
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1. check to see if the muffler connections are leak free. since the previous owner changed the mufflers, perhaps they aren't sealed or seated very well at the connections.

2. is there a PCV or any other tuner under the left side cover?

3. these bikes ran very lean from the factory so yes, adding more intake air with the K&N could produce a more lean condition and possibly worsen the popping.

4. regardless of what performance items may or may not be on your CCT, you'll greatly benefit from a ride out to The Vic Shop in Iowa. They'll tune your CCT to run perfect regardless of what you or the previous owner added to the bike. yes, you'll need either a PCV or an ECM reflash. The guys at The Vic Shop are simply awesome. Their number is: 515-339-4313

5. are you blipping the throttle on downshifts? if so, try not doing that and see if the popping goes away or is greatly reduced. many stock Victory's didn't respond well to blipping the throttle on downshifts. once Rylan and Gabe at The Vic Shop tune your CCT, blip away without issue.

6. congratulations on your CCT. IMHO, it's the very best motorcycle on the road. the senior management team at Polaris are IMHO, the polar opposite of anything good. i have over 50K miles on my CCT and have yet to find something it doesn't due exceptionally well.

7. i can't recommend the The Vic Shop installing a Lloyds air filter, Lloyds cams, Lloyds timing wheel, Lloyds 1/4 turn throttle ring, PCV or ECM reflash and the set of mufflers of your choice. You'll be adding about 30hp, 20 ft.lbs of torque, increase your fuel mileage by about 3 and greatly reducing the felt heat coming off the engine.

let us know what you end up doing.
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Mark


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2012 Pearl White CCT. Lloyds DR cams, Timing Wheel (+4), Air Filter, 1/4 Turn Throttle Ring, PCV, Tri Oval mufflers, Dyno Tune from Rylan Vos - The Vic Shop: 112/113. Bad Ace Billet tank lifts and Raging Cajun Medium Low & Throaty mufflers added well after the Dyno run.
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-09-2017, 11:48 PM
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Minimal throttle movement between shifts = minimal popping. Try disconnecting the O2 sensors. There's a connector a few inches from each one. That will help it to run a bit richer and cooler and should also reduce the popping.
Question: At what revs do you upshift?
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-10-2017, 06:32 AM
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An exhaust leak both on deceleration and between gears. will create lots of popping both on deceleration and between gears. The only thing that will fix an exhaust leak is fixing the leak.
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-10-2017, 07:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RICZ View Post
Minimal throttle movement between shifts = minimal popping. Try disconnecting the O2 sensors. There's a connector a few inches from each one. That will help it to run a bit richer and cooler and should also reduce the popping.
Question: At what revs do you upshift?
That did it for me on my 2016...disconnected the O2 sensors and stopped doing the throttle blip I have been doing for 20+ years on every other bike I have owned

Also I shift around 3k'ish. Good luck with the bike.

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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-10-2017, 08:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkInM4N View Post
That did it for me on my 2016...disconnected the O2 sensors and stopped doing the throttle blip I have been doing for 20+ years on every other bike I have owned

Also I shift around 3k'ish. Good luck with the bike.

Skin
Life begins at 3K on these things!

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" " VM1 Cams
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-10-2017, 11:49 AM
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Vic has a very poor ECM thats why the popping. We all live with it.
watch this video a good 3 times so you don't brake the fuel niple when removing the gas tank. Its best if you only have a quarter tank. The green clips he talks about there is one on top and bottom

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Last edited by visionjohnny; 07-10-2017 at 11:52 AM.
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-10-2017, 12:13 PM
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I totally disagree with disconnecting the lower end of the fuel line when removing the tank. That is how I did break (not brake) my fuel nipple. I find that disconnecting it from the top is much safer for that nipple, especially when replacing the tank. That's when mine broke.
BTW, I am too cheap to replace the entire fuel pump/filter assembly at over $400 just because of a broken nipple, so I came up with a repair that made it even stronger than before. I recommend that any Vic owner place a length of steel tubing into the fuel nipple, with a friction fit, just as a preventative measure against it breaking.
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2010 Midnight Cherry XR. 7Jurock, Lloydz AF, ATS, AFR tuned VFCIII, IAV, and T-6 and locally repacked pipes = big smiles. SOLD to a dear friend, so it's still in the family."
2017 Spyder F3 Limited - keeps this old guy in the wind and riding with friends.
Cure that ugly stand up license plate with the cheapest and best laydown bracket. Click this:
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