Shift shaft slop warning. - Victory Forums - Victory Motorcycle Forum
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post #1 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-12-2017, 11:01 AM Thread Starter
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Default Shift shaft slop warning.

I just installed a copper oil drain plug washer on the shift shaft of my bike, to eliminate the shaft slop, (missing down shifts.) After reinstalling the primary case cover and buttoning every thing up, some how wound up with only gears 1 and 2, and neutral. In 2nd, the shift lever stays up. Moving it down manually, does not enable a shift into third.

This morning, I discovered on that other site, that there are two different thickness of drain plug washers on the market. If you are unfortunate enough to use the thicker washer, (witch I did), the shift shaft will bind and not work properly. Others have had this problem too. SO BE WARNED!

This quote from the other site.

Just did this yesterday. Very easy job with you guys' help. I did notice that the washer I got was twice as thick as normal. I think Vic is starting to use a thicker washer. This thicker washer, when installed, will only allow 1st and 2nd gear to engage. Don't ask how I know that. Wish I would have measured the thinner one so I could post the differences. One looks like a nickel and the other looks like a dime is the best I can explain it as far as thickness goes. Just thought I'd share to point out the different thickness washers being put out there.
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Last edited by Richie271; 07-12-2017 at 11:17 AM.
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post #2 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-12-2017, 11:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richie271 View Post
I just installed a copper oil drain plug washer on the shift shaft of my bike, to eliminate the shaft slop, (missing down shifts.) After reinstalling the primary case cover and buttoning every thing up, some how wound up with only gears 1 and 2, and neutral. In 2nd, the shift lever stays up. Moving it down manually, does not enable a shift into third.

This morning, I discovered on that other site, that there are two different thickness of drain plug washers on the market. If you are unfortunate enough to use the thicker washer, (witch I did), the shift shaft will bind and not work properly. Others have had this problem too. SO BE WARNED!

This quote from the other site.

Just did this yesterday. Very easy job with you guys' help. I did notice that the washer I got was twice as thick as normal. I think Vic is starting to use a thicker washer. This thicker washer, when installed, will only allow 1st and 2nd gear to engage. Don't ask how I know that. Wish I would have measured the thinner one so I could post the differences. One looks like a nickel and the other looks like a dime is the best I can explain it as far as thickness goes. Just thought I'd share to point out the different thickness washers being put out there.
Thanks,
This is one of the things on my to do list.

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post #3 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-12-2017, 05:22 PM
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Thanks!
Upgraded mine 6 months ago and a big difference in shift quality.
Should've been done at the factory I reckon.
BEWARE thick oil drain washer. Anyone that ain't done it yet.
More on my latest shifting problem elsewhere.

Victory Vegas 2010
Lloydz 109"cube big bore
" " 495 cams
" " TorqueTubes
" " timing wheel @4 deg.
" " Primary plate
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Victory Cross Country 2010 (106)
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" " VM1 Cams
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post #4 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-20-2017, 05:43 AM
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For us Noobs, can someone explain this mod to me? Not what it does but more how to perform it.

Thanks,
Skin

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post #5 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-20-2017, 06:51 AM
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I have the bushing kit from Witchdoctors. Past Sunday I tried to do the brake side first. I could not watch the witchdoctors video as my computer is dying of old age ( 2008 Vista ). I have a new computer ready to pick up a best buy, Saturday I guess. The job looked straight forward except I could not get that pivot bolt out and could not figure what is holding it in. Should anyone know I am all eyes. Chuck
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post #6 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-20-2017, 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by ForestGiant View Post
I have the bushing kit from Witchdoctors. Past Sunday I tried to do the brake side first. I could not watch the witchdoctors video as my computer is dying of old age ( 2008 Vista ). I have a new computer ready to pick up a best buy, Saturday I guess. The job looked straight forward except I could not get that pivot bolt out and could not figure what is holding it in. Should anyone know I am all eyes. Chuck
What is being referred to in this post is not the shift lever slop (which WD bushings fix), but the shifter shaft where it protrudes from the primary case. There is a bit of slop in there and the thinner crush washer is being used to fix that. You have to remove the primary cover and fit the crush washer on the shift shaft, then put the primary cover back on. There is a thread here, somewhere, on how to do this.
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post #7 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-20-2017, 07:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by broggyr View Post
You have to remove the primary cover and fit the crush washer on the shift shaft, then put the primary cover back on. There is a thread here, somewhere, on how to do this.
That's the answer I was looking for. I'm not going to pull my primary cover for this alone, but I will put it on the to-do list whenever I go in there. Thanks for the info, B

Skin

PS- I know you ride a lot but Rever says otherwise

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post #8 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-20-2017, 08:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkInM4N View Post
That's the answer I was looking for. I'm not going to pull my primary cover for this alone, but I will put it on the to-do list whenever I go in there. Thanks for the info, B

Skin

PS- I know you ride a lot but Rever says otherwise
Well I can guarantee that it's well worth pulling the primary to do this mod,
wishes now that I'd done mine as soon as I found out about it, as it very well could have saved some shift ratchet wear that resulted in that having to be changed too.
The shift ratchet don't need much wear to malfunction.
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Victory Vegas 2010
Lloydz 109"cube big bore
" " 495 cams
" " TorqueTubes
" " timing wheel @4 deg.
" " Primary plate
" " IAV
RPW Slash pipes
PCV
Progressive 465 rear shock
Kingpin USD Forks
18" XC front wheel
1 3/4" 'Burleigh Bars'
Stebel air horn
12.106 @110.90mph
114/123

Victory Cross Country 2010 (106)
Lloyds air filter
" " VM1 Cams
Home gutted exhaust
Maximus
Both tuned by [email protected] Dyno
110/116

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post #9 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-20-2017, 08:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motorbikerx View Post
Well I can guarantee that it's well worth pulling the primary to do this mod,
wishes now that I'd done mine as soon as I found out about it, as it very well could have saved some shift ratchet wear that resulted in that having to be changed too.
The shift ratchet don't need much wear to malfunction.
You make a valid point...perhaps I shall rethink this

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#rideyoureffingbike

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- Lloydz Air Filter
- Lloydz QTTR
- Taylor Thundervolt wires
- Victory Tri-Ovals (no baffles)


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post #10 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-20-2017, 08:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkInM4N View Post



PS- I know you ride a lot but Rever says otherwise

Sorry I don't track my daily commutes. I'll try to be better.




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2013 XCT, Boardwalk Blue w/ Vicwrapz
S&S Cams, Lloydz filter & ATS +5, PCV, UD pulley, Alto Red Eagle clutch plates
Madstad Windshield, 5000K HID, TriOvals, Memphis Shields wings, Ultimate seat
JVC KD-X35MDT, PBR300X4, Polk DB6502, DaytonAudio ND140-4 rear
HyperLites, LED driving lights, Lloydz dyno 105+H and 117+T
Arlen Ness blinkers, KlockWerks KlipHanger bars, Avon grips

Spectro Golden 4 20w40 for Victory L.SG424, Kury Sabertooth LEDs
THE FEW, THE PROUD, THE OBSCURE. TTWFO2
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