Victory Cross Country Extreme Saddlebag Kit Installation - Victory Forums - Victory Motorcycle Forum
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-27-2017, 10:10 PM Thread Starter
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Default Victory Cross Country Extreme Saddlebag Kit Installation

I posted about my installation of the Cross Country Extreme Audio Fairing installation a couple of weeks ago. I figured I'd do the same with the Extreme Audio Saddlebag installation as I move forward with this. These are my observations and suggestions as I get through the installation. I'll update this thread as I continue.

Speakers into the lids - last night I installed the factory speaker kit into the new saddlebag lids. To hold the 6"x9" speakers in, Victory supplied M4x14 socket head cap screws (SHCS) and nylon lock nuts. The nylon lock nuts reside in a molded retainer on the underside of the lid. The nylon in the lock nuts in mine kit was very, very tight. Tight enough that the nuts would spin in the retainer as I turned the SHCS instead of the screw getting threaded into the nylon part of the nut. Since the nuts are recessed on the underside of the lid, it makes getting a wrench or pliers on them difficult. To get around this part, I placed each nylon lock nut into a box end wrench and used an allen wrench to run a SHCS all the way into each of them. Of course, in theory, this reduces the nut retention force of the nylon lock nut. But they're still so tight I can't imagine them coming loose. There were enough of the M4x14 threads left exposed that I was able to put a stainless acorn nut on each one. I had these in my garage, they don't come with the kit. I used Blue Locktite on the stainless acorn nuts.

I've read online of at least one person having an issue with water getting into the bags after installing this kit. The supplied tweeters and 6"x9" speakers all have a gasket on them which 'should' prevent this. Perhaps the one who had the issue used different speakers and tweeters than what comes in the kit. From what I could tell, it looked like there is a good seal between the tweeters and the speakers and the saddlebag lids.

The speaker grills attach to the lids in 6 places. Each position should have a rubber gasket between the speaker grill and the top of the saddlebag lid. Again, in theory, this 'should' help prevent water from getting into the bags.

The instructions warn often: DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN the speaker, tweeter and grill screws. The speaker M4 screws are shown to tighten to 24 inch pounds and the tweeter and grill screws to 14 inch pounds. and to tighten them to 14 inch pounds. I found it very easy to tell 'snug and fully retained' from too tight. If you think you need a torque wrench for these, by all means have someone else install them for you.

The speaker and grill installation looks very nice.


Install Extreme Audio Lids - I did that today. I removed the original lid from the right saddlebag and placed it on the work bench.


Remove Lockset and Bezel - There are two screws that hold the saddlebag lockset to the bezel. I tried removing those screws but they were very, very tight. I initially wondered if they were reverse thread. Of course they aren't. But they were either fused into the lockset bezel or they were installed with way too much Red Locktite. One of them finally broke free and I was able to remove that screw. Not so with the other one. It did 'break' free but now it would only turn. But in turning, it didn't back out. I lifted up on the lockset bezel just a bit to see if that would help. It came up just a bit, then it popped right off. The lockset screws go into a threaded brass nutsert which is encased in soft white plastic. The white plastic/brass nutsert 'assembly' is then pressed into the plastic lockset bezel. The white plastic simply broke preventing the screw from coming out of the brass nutsert. With the top lockset bezel now off, I tried to use pliers to hold the brass nutsert so I could then remove the screw. No way. There isn't much space to get a good bite onto the brass nutsert so it just kept turning in the pliers as I turned the screw. I used a Q-Tip to put some Goof Off into the brass nutsert hoping that would loosen any Locktite if that was the issue. No way once again, it wasn't going to budge. The screw and the brass nutsert are fused together as one.

I pushed the chrome lockset bezel back onto the broken brass nutsert and reinstalled the other screw. Then I reinstalled the original saddlebag lid back onto the bag. For a bit of confirmation to see what the other side was going to be like, I tried removing the two lockset screws on the left bag lid. They were also both so tight I stopped to prevent them from breaking as well.

I knew going into this today that I wasn't going to take the time to install the saddlebag amp or the wiring harness.

So, at this point, the installation was over for today.


Internet Parts Search Time - I went online to look for new saddlebag lockset bezels. I looked at CheapCycleParts and VictoryParts.net. The parts I need are:
Bezel, Lock, LH, Chrome 5437237-156
Bezel, Lock, RH, Chrome 5437238-156 and just for grins I also ordered two
Seal, Saddlebag Lock 5413498
The parts were less expensive at VictoryParts.net so the order was placed. I should hopefully know soon if/when they're available. I received a system generated order confirmation email from VictoryParts.net soon after placing the order.

If/when these parts come in I'll continue with this phase of the installation. Perhaps in the interim, I'll install the saddlebag amp, wiring harness and the new saddlebag retention bolts. My 2012 CCT came with 1/4 turn Dzus fasteners to secure the bags to the bike. Polaris had since switched to a bolt mount whether the bikes has the audio kit or not. I've never had an issue with the Dzus fasteners but I'lll replace them with the bolts that came with the kit.

As mentioned, I'll continue to update this as the parts come in and the installation moves forward.

All the best,

Mark


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2012 Pearl White CCT. Lloyds DR cams, Timing Wheel (+4), Air Filter, 1/4 Turn Throttle Ring, PCV, Tri Oval mufflers, Dyno Tune from Rylan Vos - The Vic Shop: 112/113. Bad Ace Billet tank lifts and Raging Cajun Medium Low & Throaty mufflers added well after the Dyno run.

Last edited by Chattanooga Mark; 08-27-2017 at 10:35 PM.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-28-2017, 04:29 AM
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Sorry to hear that you had issues with your bolts..... My installation was very smooth and uneventful thankfully.
One thing I intend on doing to mine in hindsight is to reverse the mounting of my 6x9s so that the wiring inputs are facing the front of the bag and not the rear. I carry quite a bit of stuff in my bags at times and notice that they get too close, if not already in contact with the wiring. Swapping the mounting direction of them put me at ease from worrying about my lunch bag, jacket or other items hitting and damaging the wires and plugs.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-31-2017, 09:39 PM Thread Starter
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Out of curiosity I called Don Woods Victory this afternoon to check on my parts order. The 3 items I need for my saddlebags (RH & LH bezel plus 2 sealing washers) were already in. I also ordered a new RH passenger floorboard and the 6 rubber washers for the CCT windshield. Those items will be in at Don Woods Victory on Tuesday of next week. Instead of paying shipping on two separate boxes I told them just to ship everything together next week.

The main point of this post is that I was very glad Polaris had the chrome saddlebag lock bezels and their rubber sealing washers in stock. Glad, and quite frankly, more than a bit surprised.

All the best,

Mark


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The Bible: Read, Apply, Repeat

"That's a beautiful Victory!"
"Thank you."
"Who makes it?"
"No one."

Who turns Victory into defeat? Polaris Industries, that's who.

2012 Pearl White CCT. Lloyds DR cams, Timing Wheel (+4), Air Filter, 1/4 Turn Throttle Ring, PCV, Tri Oval mufflers, Dyno Tune from Rylan Vos - The Vic Shop: 112/113. Bad Ace Billet tank lifts and Raging Cajun Medium Low & Throaty mufflers added well after the Dyno run.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-03-2017, 12:11 AM Thread Starter
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I have everything installed now except the new saddlebag lids. The new chrome lockset bezels should be here by the end of next week.

[B]Remove Saddlebags - [B]Removing the bags with the original 1/4 turn Dzus is always breeze. As is removing the Dzus setup and installing the supplied bolt kit. I did find spraying a bit of cleaner on the original rubber spacers made them a lot easier to remove.

[B]Install Saddlebag Wiring - [B] Another straight forward procedure. I cut out a paper template to position the 3/4" hole 4.75" in and 1" down. A simple wood paddle drill bit makes this easy. I made a small pilot hole and then used the 3/4" bit. Installing the bag wiring is again, easy as can be. I spent more time cleaning the bags than actually working on them with this installation. The kit comes with split self adhesive rubber strips to run the speaker wires from the back of the bag to the lower - rear saddlebag hinge bolt. I wiped the bag surface where the rubber strip goes with Goof Off to remove any contaminants. It helps the rubber strips adhere much better.

[B]Remove Side Covers and the Seat - [B] Simple as can be and something I've done numerous times. Just make sure you disconnect the electrical connection to the seat if your seat is heated.

[B]Remove The CCT Trunk - [B] This was the first time I ever did this so I wanted to ensure all went well. I asked my wife to watch the brackets to ensure I didn't scratch the fender. The front of the trunk brackets are covered but I wanted to be sure nothing bad happened. Wow, the trunk is a lot heavier and more awkward to move around than I thought it would be. But now it's sitting on a beach towel on the garage floor. My wife went to bed and I want to ride a bit without it for the next few days. Many have posted how riding without the trunk is a much different experience so I'll check it out.

Remove Rear Victory Chrome Bumper - 4 bolts 4 nuts and it's off. The original hardware was a bit corroded so on installation I replaced them with stainless hardware and used a bit of anti seize on the threads.

[B]Disconnect Antenna - [B] A 7mm wrench and it's done

[B]Remove Saddlebag Brackets - [B] All straight forward and easy. You only have to be careful while removing these brackets that you don't scratch the fender. I didn't have to remove the chrome CCT saddlebag rails. I only had to remove the top front bolt that goes through the saddlebag bracket. The two SHCS that secure each saddlebag bracket were also corroded. I replaced them with stainless hardware with a bit of anti seize when I put them back on.

[B]Remove The Rear Fender - [B] This is something I haven't done before on this bike. There are now only four small bolts holding it on. Remove them and carefully lift the rear fender up a bit. Then reach inside and disconnect the brake/turn signal connection. Once that's disconnected the fender lifts right off. I have the passenger grab rails and as I said earlier, the Victory chrome fender trim pieces. These together with the trunk, make it fairly difficult to clean the entire rear fender. Once I had the fender off I spent a good bit of time cleaning it up. Once it looked like new, I continued. I also replaced the original fender hardware with stainless and used a bit of anti seize on the threads.

[B]Install The Rear Amp and Wiring Harness - [B] Just follow the instructions or look at the pictures, this is a snap. I used some Blue Locktite on the 4 bolts that hold the Amp to the bracket as well as the 4 bolts that hold the bracket onto the rear fender frame. I likely spent more time adding new and re-positioning plastic tie wraps than I did installing the amp and the wiring harness. I have the Victory/Scorpio keyless ignition as well as a PCV under the left side cover. That makes adding any additional wiring a bit of a chore to ensure the side cover goes back on and will stay on. I previously used a Dremel sanding drum to remove a bit of the upper lip on the left side cover which has worked well. I didn't have to trim off any additional material this time.

[B]Clean, Clean and Clean - [B] Not sure when I'll have the rear fender, saddlebags and the trunk off again so I took the opportunity to thoroughly clean the areas that are hard to get to when everything is put together. The Installation Manual says it should take 4 hours to install this kit. I likely spent more time than that just cleaning everything.

[B]Re-Assembly Time - [B] Slow and steady taking my time to ensure all goes well. It did. Be sure to connect the saddlebag speaker harness to each saddlebag upon installation of the bags.

The CCT looks awesome! The entire rear half of the bike is as clean as can be. Everything is now put back together except for the trunk which is still off. I'll put that back on at the first hint my wife is ready to go for a ride.

The new saddlebag lock bezels should be in next week so I won't be able to complete this installation till next weekend. Moving the locksets from the original bag lids to the new ones and then installing the new lids shouldn't take long at all. But I'm more than anxious to get this installation complete. Then comes the sound check.

All the best,

Mark


www.bikersforchrist.org

The Bible: Read, Apply, Repeat

"That's a beautiful Victory!"
"Thank you."
"Who makes it?"
"No one."

Who turns Victory into defeat? Polaris Industries, that's who.

2012 Pearl White CCT. Lloyds DR cams, Timing Wheel (+4), Air Filter, 1/4 Turn Throttle Ring, PCV, Tri Oval mufflers, Dyno Tune from Rylan Vos - The Vic Shop: 112/113. Bad Ace Billet tank lifts and Raging Cajun Medium Low & Throaty mufflers added well after the Dyno run.

Last edited by Chattanooga Mark; 09-03-2017 at 12:25 AM.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-10-2017, 08:54 PM Thread Starter
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Last night I installed the extreme audio saddlebag lids so this installation is now finally complete. I'm very pleased with the end result. The rear speakers combined with the front extreme audio kit really crank out the sound. I put less than 50 highway miles on, at about 80mph but still, the sound came through just fine. Again, it does depend a bit on the music. Around town and at anything under 70mph, everything I listened to was impressive.

I used a Dremel tool with a grinding disc to remove one of the M6x20 bolts that secure the lockset in the original right saddlebag lid. That likely took longer than changing out the original lids for the new ones. The left lockset bolts did come out but they were also hard to break loose. I could feel the lockset chrome bezel being distorted a bit before the bolts finally broke loose. Since I bought a new lockset chrome bezel for the left side as well, I replaced went ahead and it. The factory applied Red Locktite to all the lockset bolts. The bolts had that familiar red residue on the threads plus a bit on the top of the bolts. Perhaps the Locktite on the top was there to identify that Red Locktite was used.

The saddlebag lids are held onto the hinge with 3 M5x10 bolts. I discarded the original ones and used stainless button heads with an M5 stainless fender washer. They look great and I used a little anti seize on each one. Similar with the bolts that secure the locksets. I ruined the one by cutting it off so I replaced all of them with stainless M6x20 button heads with an M6 stainless fender washer. I applied a little bit of anti seize on each of these as well.

I had to shorten the rubber strip that runs and holds the speaker wire from the bag hinge to the speaker connection. Leaving them at the original length simply wouldn't have worked. I also used a plastic tie wrap to secure the speaker wire harness to the tweeter. I did this to reduce any strain or pulling on the connections when the bags are opened.

While I was out for a ride this afternoon I stopped at Wal Mart to get a few things. I had to remind myself that I hadn't yet installed the trunk and that the speaker hanging down does take up some room in the bags. I'll likely put the trunk back on this week. When loading the saddlebags now, you simply can't go over the top of the lower bag in the front half of the lid. Doing otherwise would likely have the load hitting the speaker or the connection.

As posted on this and other threads, I never gave the Victory Extreme Audio kits a thought. Not until they blew them out at 60% off anyway. In the end, I'm glad to have gotten them before they sold out.

All the best,

Mark


www.bikersforchrist.org

The Bible: Read, Apply, Repeat

"That's a beautiful Victory!"
"Thank you."
"Who makes it?"
"No one."

Who turns Victory into defeat? Polaris Industries, that's who.

2012 Pearl White CCT. Lloyds DR cams, Timing Wheel (+4), Air Filter, 1/4 Turn Throttle Ring, PCV, Tri Oval mufflers, Dyno Tune from Rylan Vos - The Vic Shop: 112/113. Bad Ace Billet tank lifts and Raging Cajun Medium Low & Throaty mufflers added well after the Dyno run.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-11-2017, 02:24 PM
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come on you know better
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-06-2018, 07:07 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, I know this is an older thread. But I've seem some posts about water getting into the saddlebag through the speaker system. Yesterday, I was able to check mine out. I left early to ride from Chattanooga, TN to Murfreesboro, TN for a ride. Halfway to Murfreesboro, for 30 minutes with the CCT sitting in the event parking lot and about halfway home from Murfreesboro, it rained. Not a gentle sort of rain but the sky throwing big water droplets straight down with force.

I was glad when I checked my saddlebags that they were both completely dry. No water what so ever got into either bag. With the force of the rain while riding and while parked I suspect that if they were going to leak, they certainly would have yesterday.

This and the Extreme Fairing Audio system was a very nice design that Polaris engineered. It still saddens me they then killed off one of their very best and most trouble free creations. I know there are aftermarket audio systems that can out perform the factory kits. That shouldn't surprise anyone. But I glad to have gotten the factory kit none the less. I always prefer a 'designed in' rather than an 'added on' approach anyway.

All the best,

Mark


www.bikersforchrist.org

The Bible: Read, Apply, Repeat

"That's a beautiful Victory!"
"Thank you."
"Who makes it?"
"No one."

Who turns Victory into defeat? Polaris Industries, that's who.

2012 Pearl White CCT. Lloyds DR cams, Timing Wheel (+4), Air Filter, 1/4 Turn Throttle Ring, PCV, Tri Oval mufflers, Dyno Tune from Rylan Vos - The Vic Shop: 112/113. Bad Ace Billet tank lifts and Raging Cajun Medium Low & Throaty mufflers added well after the Dyno run.

Last edited by Chattanooga Mark; 05-06-2018 at 07:13 PM.
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