A Little Maintenance on Labor Day Monday - Victory Forums - Victory Motorcycle Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-03-2018, 08:34 PM Thread Starter
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Default A Little Maintenance on Labor Day Monday

So Friday night I cleaned up the beautiful CCT from being caught in the rain a few times. A couple of months ago I had to spray the hand brake micro switch with contact cleaner. The switch went south again in the last couple of weeks. My foot brake operated the brake light as normal. The hand brake would turn off cruise control but it wouldn't keep the brake lights on. I bought a new micro switch when I had to use contact cleaner so it was nice to have a new one waiting to be installed. Replacing this switch couldn't be much easier. One Phillips head screw was all it took to remove it then I used a pair of small needle nose pliers to remove and reinstall the two wires. It's as easy as it gets.

I have just over 60K miles on my CCT so today I took the time to perform some basic maintenance. I replaced the spark plugs, the fuel filter, serviced the Lloyds air filter and lubed the clutch cable ends. I finished the day off with a nice shake down ride to ensure everything was operating properly. Yes, yes it is. I had a new fuel filter and a fuel pump gasket on hand as well so I'll order new replacements from Paulie so I keep these kinds of items readily available.

My dyno tune from Rylan at The Vic Shop was about 50K miles ago. The CCT still runs wonderfully. But last year I exchanged the Tri Ovals for Raging Cajun Medium Low & Throaty mufflers and I also added the Bad Ace Billet tank risers. So on Wednesday I'm scheduled to go to Polaris Indian of Charlotte to have my fuel map verified and/or adjusted as needed due to changing out the mufflers and raising the tank an inch. Polaris Indian of Charlotte, NC is the shop that Lloyds is a partner in. I was at the shop a couple of weeks ago and was able to have a very nice conversation with Josh. It's awesome for people around here that Josh moved from Lloyds in Pine Bush, NY to the Charlotte area. Josh doesn't need to redo the entire fuel map on the dyno, just take a look at it and see what cells may need to be tweaked. He's expecting about a half hour or so of dyno time. I have the spark plugs labeled front and rear so I'll show them to Josh. They look normal to me but I wanted the bike to have new plugs, a good fuel filter and a clean air filter for the dyno run.

Next up on my maintenance schedule is to meet up with Depot Picker to change out my fork oil. Around that time I'll also bleed the brakes, add Speed Bleeders and I'll likely install a new set of Lyndall Gold brake pads. I also have a new 40AMP breaker I'll replace as well. My 40 AMP breaker is still working fine but I'll replace it anyway. I've ridden in a LOT of rain so who knows, maybe the 40 AMP breaker is on its last legs or maybe it's still looking fine inside.

One more thing, if you haven't done so yet, consider to learn how to work on your own bike. Especially to do these simple maintenance jobs. The CCT is about as easy as it gets to work on. Even replacing the fuel filter was actually very easy. I had it replaced at 30K miles so it was due again. I'm glad I did it myself this time.
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All the best,

Mark


www.bikersforchrist.org

The Bible: Read, Apply, Repeat

"That's a beautiful Victory!"
"Thank you."
"Who makes it?"
"No one."

Who turns Victory into defeat? Polaris Industries, that's who.

2012 Pearl White CCT. Lloyds DR cams, Timing Wheel (+4), Air Filter, 1/4 Turn Throttle Ring, PCV, Tri Oval mufflers, Dyno Tune from Rylan Vos - The Vic Shop: 112/113. Bad Ace Billet tank lifts and Raging Cajun Medium Low & Throaty mufflers added well after the Dyno run.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-04-2018, 05:32 AM
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I took this long weekend to get some much needed riding in! Had back issues earlier in the year plus working 50+ hours a week has really put a damper on my riding. Took Friday off and took off by myself into NC for the day while Sat and Sun me and the better half hit some of the best twisty roads I have been on in a long time in KY and WV. Put about 600 miles on it over the weekend. Stayed home to take care of chores and wash the XR after 3 days of being caught in the rain.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-04-2018, 05:36 AM
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Good for you for working on your own machine. I have always done my own work on all my vehicles, house, small engines, etc. mainly because when I was younger I did not have the money to pay someone else to do it plus I am a cheap *ss and now that I am older with a few more dollars in my pocket I still do my own work. I also DO NOT TRUST 90% of the "mechanics" out there, they don't know what the hell they are doing most of the time. I need to get my fork oil changed as well, would love to be able to meet up with you guys and get mine changed as well.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-04-2018, 08:00 AM Thread Starter
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TNXR,

Depot Picker has the correct tool to compress the spring to remove the fork internal rod dampener. There are videos out their that show a simple dump and pump method to replace the fork oil. But every known and recognized Victory technician will caution against doing that. It leaves all the gunk in the fork and you'll really not be able to tell how much fork oil to add back in. I plan to remove my fork legs in my garage and then take them to Depot Picker's place in North Georgia. That way I don't take up his time in fork removal and I can work at my own slow pace in removing them. I tend to clean everything I can get to once parts are removed.
We haven't set a date to do this but I'm sure he would be fine with adding another to the party. It would be great for the three (or more) of us to get together. Depot Picker has already done his forks correctly so I'll (we can) lean on his experience in doing this. I already bought the seals kit and they're sitting on my office parts shelf waiting on me. I also have to buy new fork oil. I have 3 quarts of Bel Ray fork oil in my garage that must be over 25 years old. I won't be using that but I have yet to figure out what weight fork oil to get. I've never seen any hint that my fork seals are leaking either.

All the best,

Mark


www.bikersforchrist.org

The Bible: Read, Apply, Repeat

"That's a beautiful Victory!"
"Thank you."
"Who makes it?"
"No one."

Who turns Victory into defeat? Polaris Industries, that's who.

2012 Pearl White CCT. Lloyds DR cams, Timing Wheel (+4), Air Filter, 1/4 Turn Throttle Ring, PCV, Tri Oval mufflers, Dyno Tune from Rylan Vos - The Vic Shop: 112/113. Bad Ace Billet tank lifts and Raging Cajun Medium Low & Throaty mufflers added well after the Dyno run.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-04-2018, 08:33 AM
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I've worked on vehicles since I overhauled my brother's Chevy engine when I was 12 yr.s old.
The last weekend I did my forks (for the 1st time--'cuz at 67kM they were leakin'). This weekend I replaced my rear tire. I've been lookin' in my maintenance book for the VV and near as I an tell the last documented rear tire change was 40kM ago. Usually I get a sure 12.5kM on my rear but, I've added Centermatic wheel balancers (front 'n back) along with TMS's 'n maintained tire pressure religiously. If, indeed, my rear tire did go 40kM that distance alone has paid for the wheel balancers (at $300 for the balancers my rear tire cost $305).

Chattanooga Mark, 'bout doin' yer forks... if ya have help GREAT! If doin' 'em alone invest in some specialty tools! Watch as many videos as ya can on how to do forks (if ya've never done--like me). Inverted, standard any explanation or example will help. Be careful when watchin' WD's example of how to disassemble VV forks. Jon states that the cartridge spring shouldn't be removed ('cuz it'll just cause more work). He's wrong, the spring MUST be removed to do the fork oil fill correctly. I used a McPherson strut spring collapsin' tool (but, later I bought a Race Tech fork spring collapsin' tool--for next time). I bought the spring collapsin' tool from Amazon:




The seal installin' tool:




The fluid measurin' tool:




I also picked up a: beaker (for measurin' 'n pourin'), 16mm crowfoot wrenches, 'n a 30mm socket:








On the VV the handlebars need to come off to access the 30mm nut holdin' the triple-tree (so there's yer need for a 16mm crowfoot and 30mm socket).

Since ya'll be removin' the forks for maintenance ya might as well drop yer triple-tree 'n lube the neck bearing (the Timpkin bearings on the bottom need to re-packed not the sealed unit on top).

...Like I said if you've done forks before 'n get help GREAT! If not these are tools 'n ideas I learned along the way when doin' my forks.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-04-2018, 08:46 AM
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I used PJ1, 10 wt., 'cuz Vic's 7.89 wt.'s hard to find (if at all). Found I didn't use more than a qt. but bought an extra quart to be sure I had 'nough…




KevinX has mentioned that going up in viscosity won't stiffen the ride but addin' an extra 10mm of oil to the fork will.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-04-2018, 09:37 AM Thread Starter
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DaveT,

Thank you for your great information. I have a CCT but I was thinking that since I'm dropping the forks out of the triple trees, I 'should' also address the steering head bearings. It's a lot of work to remove the triple trees from the CCT. If I go that route, I'll simply replace the head bearings rather than clean and lube them. In my mind I'm picturing ratchet straps attached to the ceiling holding up the handlebars and the fairing etc. Like something out of a Pinhead horror movie.
Similar to when I remove my rear wheel for a new tire. At that time I should remove and lube the rear shock bearing and the linkage. I need to read up on that procedure as from what I remember it sounds worse than it really is. But at 60K miles, these kinds of maintenance items can't be over looked any longer. This bike isn't going anywhere so I'll continue to maintain it. It's a tough bike to sell or trade anyway because a dealer will offer me less than $5K on a trade as they say the mileage is "way too high". Huh, it's a touring bike. I saw a 2004 H-D Wide Glide in mint condition recently with thousands of extras on it for a dealer asking price of $12.5K. I thought that price is as crazy as the odometer reading under 4K miles.

All the best,

Mark


www.bikersforchrist.org

The Bible: Read, Apply, Repeat

"That's a beautiful Victory!"
"Thank you."
"Who makes it?"
"No one."

Who turns Victory into defeat? Polaris Industries, that's who.

2012 Pearl White CCT. Lloyds DR cams, Timing Wheel (+4), Air Filter, 1/4 Turn Throttle Ring, PCV, Tri Oval mufflers, Dyno Tune from Rylan Vos - The Vic Shop: 112/113. Bad Ace Billet tank lifts and Raging Cajun Medium Low & Throaty mufflers added well after the Dyno run.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-04-2018, 04:24 PM
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Mark, would love to join you guys for a fork changin' get together but I am in the upper east corner of the state and just can't find the time to run down to the Georgia line any time soon. Thanks for the invite though. I am a low mileage rider but I assume like regular oil that fork oil will break down over time as much as would with a ton of miles. My bike was made in Jan of 2011 but I bought it new in Sept. of 2012 and have about 15k miles on it so my fork oil is going on 8 years old. I figured I may wait another couple of years and change it out and then decide if I want to invest in the tools and do it myself or let a garage do it. I've changed the fork oil in my last bike (2006 M50) that also had inverted forks and I rebuilt the forks in my 1973 Kawi Enduro so I should be able to tackle this.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-04-2018, 09:21 PM
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I'm changin' my steering head bearings next fork seal change. The triple-tree bearin' looked good so I just lubed it. Dealer changed 'em at 15kM rather than lube (his advice).

My setup's easy... a lift, a scissor jack, 'n some straps (opposite side of work). Weekend before last it was the forks and head. Last weekend it was a new rear tire and drive belt. Who knows, maybe next weekend it'll be a replacement rear shock? Yep, can't put off that 60kM maintenance. Otherwise it'll kill ya on the road. I ride 120M/day round trip to work. Plenty 'o saddle time.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-04-2018, 11:34 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TNXR View Post
Mark, would love to join you guys for a fork changin' get together but I am in the upper east corner of the state and just can't find the time to run down to the Georgia line any time soon. Thanks for the invite though. I am a low mileage rider but I assume like regular oil that fork oil will break down over time as much as would with a ton of miles. My bike was made in Jan of 2011 but I bought it new in Sept. of 2012 and have about 15k miles on it so my fork oil is going on 8 years old. I figured I may wait another couple of years and change it out and then decide if I want to invest in the tools and do it myself or let a garage do it. I've changed the fork oil in my last bike (2006 M50) that also had inverted forks and I rebuilt the forks in my 1973 Kawi Enduro so I should be able to tackle this.
My CCT fork oil was last changed at 15K. It was dirty and needed to be changed.

All the best,

Mark


www.bikersforchrist.org

The Bible: Read, Apply, Repeat

"That's a beautiful Victory!"
"Thank you."
"Who makes it?"
"No one."

Who turns Victory into defeat? Polaris Industries, that's who.

2012 Pearl White CCT. Lloyds DR cams, Timing Wheel (+4), Air Filter, 1/4 Turn Throttle Ring, PCV, Tri Oval mufflers, Dyno Tune from Rylan Vos - The Vic Shop: 112/113. Bad Ace Billet tank lifts and Raging Cajun Medium Low & Throaty mufflers added well after the Dyno run.
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