Changing handle bars - Victory Forums - Victory Motorcycle Forum
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-02-2019, 08:59 AM Thread Starter
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Default Changing handle bars

I'm gonna get ready to take my old handle bars if and install the new extended handle bars hopefully I won't screw anything up or brake anything will give update later

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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-02-2019, 09:06 AM
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best put a blanket over your tank just as a precautionary measure...helps to have an extra pair of hands too , though I fitted my Burleigh Bars myself, had to pull on the front brake cable a bit to gain clearance.
I didn't break anything though, had to die-grind the location lugs off my switch-blocks and controls but.
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" " 495 cams
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" " timing wheel @4 deg.
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-02-2019, 10:20 AM Thread Starter
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Well done fck up the Phillip screw in the kill switch the head strip so how do I get it out without screwing anything else

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98 t-bird traded for rocket
73 sportster sold
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-02-2019, 10:22 AM Thread Starter
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IMG_20190902_112119469.jpg
Here's a pix

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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-02-2019, 11:28 AM
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One trick is to cut a groove in the top of the screw with a hacksaw (blade) or a dremel cutting wheel. Another is to get a hold of it with some sharp nosed vise grips. Of course you can drill it out. Seems like it must be soft metal. Just try not to mess up the threads. After you get it out; run a tap through the threads to clean them up.

You don't have a lot of room to work with so I suspect you will be drilling it out. Sometimes you can drill just deep enough to grab it with those vise grips to turn it a little at a time.

The key word for this project is patience and try not to get frustrated. Everyone who is a shade-tree mechanic has done this so you're in good company.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-02-2019, 11:33 AM
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I just got done swapping fuel pumps in my Mustang. Success! But it took me twice as long as I thought it would. Good thing I had that Harbor Freight motorcycle lift to lower and raise the tank back into place. That was the first time I did a fuel pump swap on a car. The swap was easy. Lower and raising it with the fuel pipe fighting me was a pain in the butt. Car starts right up now instead of having to crank for a while.

Mechanicin' can be frustrating but usually when it's all said and done; there's a good feeling of accomplishment.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-02-2019, 11:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rainman123 View Post
Well done fck up the Phillip screw in the kill switch the head strip so how do I get it out without screwing anything else
its probably not phillips but JIS, thats why they chew out, very common happening using phillips on jap bikes,
got an impact driver? use it...with force into whats left plus twisting force and a hit with a hammer should jar it loose.
No impact driver? ..worth investing in one....You could try hitting a phillips with a hammer, usually a few good taps before you even start to try to unscrew will loosen the thread.
Drilling out is a severe last option

Victory Vegas 2010
Lloydz 109"cube big bore
" " 495 cams
" " TorqueTubes
" " timing wheel @4 deg.
" " Primary plate
" " IAV
RPW Slash pipes
PCV
Progressive 465 rear shock
Kingpin USD Forks
18" XC front wheel
1 3/4" 'Burleigh Bars'
Stebel air horn
12.106 @110.90mph
114/123

Victory Cross Country 2010 (106)
Lloyds air filter
" " VM1 Cams
Home gutted exhaust
Maximus
Both tuned by [email protected] Dyno
110/116

Gold Coast
Australia
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-02-2019, 01:21 PM
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Yeah; those are Philips head screws unfortunately. Probably not a bad idea to swap them out for some stainless hex (Allens).
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-02-2019, 02:50 PM
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Ouch. Definitely a Philips and be sure head is fully seated. They can be a bit tight if not been loosened for a while. Or a prior owner/dealer mucking it up over torquing things.

Position makes it hard to get at, there are extractor bits for that. Bite into head and get it going. All you need to do is break the torque on it then it should just unscrew with your finger.
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-02-2019, 03:35 PM Thread Starter
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Ok finally got them on
I wound up drilling the screw and using a extractor broke the first then had to redrill it and using the next size bigger extractor and finally got it out
Used a grinder to make a slot to use a straight screwdriver
Just came back from a test ride what a difference the bars make
Now for my new problem my cruise does not work now the light comes on but when you set it it won't engage
The only thing I can think of is maybe I got the green and white plugs switched around on the right side

IMG_20190902_141817819.jpg

2012 crossroad
08 r3t traded for xr
06 rocket classic totaled
98 t-bird traded for rocket
73 sportster sold
72 honda 350 long gone

06 rocket3 classic
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