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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-21-2013, 09:14 PM Thread Starter
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Default Vibration issues

Hey Gang.
Just got back from my first two up ride for my new Cross Country, and I have a issue with major vibrations anywhere over 70 mph. I bought it last month in TX and rode it back solo with no issues for 700 plus miles. When I got to my destination on Friday I shopped around and found a dealer and went in Saturday and purchased "Ride On" tire sealant/balancing, which I have had awesome results with in past. It didnt phase the issue, so I have to assume it is not in the wheel area or balance issue or I would have at least seen a difference of some level. I just wanted to put this out there and see if anyone else has had vibrations issues of this nature. Will tear into bike this next week in evenings after work, but figured would see if any obvious options exist first. Thanks for any and all input.
Beforehand will give basics:
rear shock had proper pressure for weight, even tried adjusting up and down, no change.
Checked belt tension
Inspected tires for bubbles or flaws.
checked for obvious loose items in front and rear suspension areas.

2013 Cross Country, RJC exhaust, Lloyd's Filter, Timing wheel, PCV, Adjustable Rear lowering link, Goody's front lowers. NW New Mexico
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-21-2013, 09:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Good-One67 View Post
Hey Gang.
Just got back from my first two up ride for my new Cross Country, and I have a issue with major vibrations anywhere over 70 mph. I bought it last month in TX and rode it back solo with no issues for 700 plus miles. When I got to my destination on Friday I shopped around and found a dealer and went in Saturday and purchased "Ride On" tire sealant/balancing, which I have had awesome results with in past. It didnt phase the issue, so I have to assume it is not in the wheel area or balance issue or I would have at least seen a difference of some level. I just wanted to put this out there and see if anyone else has had vibrations issues of this nature. Will tear into bike this next week in evenings after work, but figured would see if any obvious options exist first. Thanks for any and all input.
Beforehand will give basics:
rear shock had proper pressure for weight, even tried adjusting up and down, no change.
Checked belt tension
Inspected tires for bubbles or flaws.
checked for obvious loose items in front and rear suspension areas.
First thing I would do is .......
With the bike in neutral slowly raise the rpm until you get to the rpm where you felt the vibration. If you notice the vibration in neutral there is an issue with the motor. If you didn't notice the vibration then the issue is more than likely in the tires or even a misaligned belt. The belt can bite you in many ways. These belts get tight as the outside temp rises. What might be ok while riding in 70 deg weather can be causing damage in 100 deg weather. Is the belt trying to climb over the side of the pulley? Take the bike for a ride in hot weather then check the tension. It should not be tight.........

Another test is run the bike at the speed you get your vibration then pull in the clutch letting the motor rpm drop... Does the vibration stay or go away???

Pay close Att to the belt. It might be trying to tell something..


Rob
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-21-2013, 09:43 PM
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#1 tire is bad. Take to dealer and have them spin it. Yes I know you have balancing stuff in it.
#2 check wheel bearings
#3 swing arm bearings
I do know of Dunlap's being out of round. Try riding again with just you. Then try wife again. Could even be the link rod. Pay attention when you hit a bump or pot hole see if the shock feels like it works.
Doughy its the belt

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-22-2013, 06:46 AM
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So, it's new.
It does it with SO on but not alone.
Kicks in at 70 and does not quiet down.
Balancing goo does not have any effect.

Looks like you ran the numbers on tires short of swapping them. Not sure it's not but after pressure and balance not much else to do but swap and there's other places to look before that. Getting a dealer to give you rubber means making a convincing argument that it is rubber.

My wife is a buck and a quarter. I might strap a couple of sacks of mortar on the seat and another 25 pounds in the bags and try again. If it repeats with weight alone, it's in the driveline and bad rubber is a suspect. If it doesn't repeat then I have aerodynamics to contend with. That recommends an inspection of the front end. If the front end checks out then it becomes a game of adjustment and playing with wind movement. Of course, there's a third option but if you like your wife's company it's not acceptable.

If you can do helmet video,make a wife off / wife on comparison and take it to the dealer. It would be weird for everyone, mostly your wife, to have the wrench try and replicate the condition but a good video with speedo shots and visible vibration, that would get my attention if I were the service writer.

Whatever it is, high speed vibration is a warranty issue but you can help the shop get the right solution by eliminating possibilities yourself.

Red.
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Since the stone age chasing the great herds
We mostly go where we have to go

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-22-2013, 09:12 AM
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I dont know for sure but I will say...at 70 on my 100inch KP I just start noticing that I am riding a huge engine with big jugs..there is an inherent feel or vib to this beast..you may be chasing a inherent vib maybe not. Have a tech ride it with another tech and see what they say.....I hope you figure it out..

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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-22-2013, 10:32 AM
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Take the bike up to 75-80, pull in the clutch. If the vibration stops it's the engine, if it's still there it's the chassis.

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-22-2013, 10:54 AM
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I have to ask its a NEW 13 and the wheels would of been balanced from the factory. Maybe there is NO wheel weights on them but thats the way they come. Dunlops have a dot that goes by the valve stem.
So why did you add run flat you just might of screwed up the all ready balancing factor.
Take out the Run Flat and you might be just fine

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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-22-2013, 05:32 PM
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When the ride-on was put in the tires were the weights removed from the wheels? If not pull off the wheel weights.

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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-22-2013, 08:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ammo_umb View Post
When the ride-on was put in the tires were the weights removed from the wheels? If not pull off the wheel weights.
As VJ mentioned, my Dunlop tires on mine didn't have any wheel weights either, was also told that they don't need any, they just align the dot on the wheel to the valve stem.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-23-2013, 08:51 AM Thread Starter
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I added the Ride-On after noticing the vibration for 300 plus miles, no weights visible on wheel. I would assume from past experience if it was a balance issue, I would have at least noticed a change of some sort either better or worse. nothing changed. I am planning to set aside time in next day or two to try narrow down exact speeds and document some kind of vibration either by video, or measure where the most vibration is. If i set cruise and remove throttle hand the bar end is easily vibrating couple inches back and forth. Same on other side. It is like my hands are now the "dampening system" for the bars. The bars themselves I know are long from where they are attached which makes the scenario even worse. Was planning on installing the "mini apes", but not until I get this vibration issue resolved.

2013 Cross Country, RJC exhaust, Lloyd's Filter, Timing wheel, PCV, Adjustable Rear lowering link, Goody's front lowers. NW New Mexico
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