2013 Cross Country Tour ABS Brake Issue - Victory Forums - Victory Motorcycle Forum
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-01-2013, 08:32 PM Thread Starter
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Default 2013 Cross Country Tour ABS Brake Issue

Is there something special about bleeding the antilock brake system on a Cross bike??

When I first got this bike (brand new) the fluid was a little dark, and the handle was a little soft, but not a real problem. Over the last 6 or so months and 5,500 miles the fluid got unexpectedly dark and the lever very soft… to the point the where the lever squeezes my index finger when I squeeze the brakes good, and I have to pump it to get a solid lever. Yes, I use 2 fingers (middle and ring) for braking.

Well today I finally got around to changing out the fluid. I have worked on brake systems too many times to count, on numerous cars, trucks, and bikes… replacing calipers, boosters, master cylinders. But none of them had anti-lock.

This time I could not for the life of me get the desired results. I used my trusty MityVac and pulled ¾ of a quart of fresh Valvoline DOT 4 fluid through. No bubbles came out of the master cylinder at any time (per my helper). Lever is still soft and gets harder when it is pumped… classic air in the system feel.

I changed the fluid on my last XC with zero problems. So, what’s the deal?!?!?

2013 Cross Country Tour: Custom paint, stage 1 exhaust, Lloydz Hi-Flow air filter, cams (HOH-VM1-DR), timing gear (HOH-PTS), Power Commander V, Auto Tune module, Gustafson flip shield, OEM passenger backrest with Cycle Ops luggage rack, Vic HID, heel shifter, Rockford amp, Infinity speakers all around.

2011 Cross Country: Burnt and Traded
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-01-2013, 08:56 PM
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Quite common on automobiles that the ABS pump needs to be cycled for full bleeding. Valves opened and closed accordingly. From my car experience it usually happens if the system has run dry, not if you plugged and replaced only. However on a Jeep we had the problem in my shop even with that and it required a dealer scan tool to cycle them correctly. Live and learn...

I'd check with a dealer and see if you need the same here or not.

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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-02-2013, 09:57 AM Thread Starter
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Dealer sent me a PDF of the 2013 shop manual section for the brake system. There is no mention of cycling the ABS, or how this would be accomplished. There is no bleeder valve on the ABS modules either.

I'm going to buy some more fluid and try the reverse bleed idea this weekend. If I can't get it to work right I guess I will have to let the dealer work on it.

Any other ideas???

By the way... The manual has a brake inspection section. Set the dial to the lowest position and squeeze at 35 pounds, lever should not touch the handle. Well, it does at far less than 35 pounds of force.


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2013 Cross Country Tour: Custom paint, stage 1 exhaust, Lloydz Hi-Flow air filter, cams (HOH-VM1-DR), timing gear (HOH-PTS), Power Commander V, Auto Tune module, Gustafson flip shield, OEM passenger backrest with Cycle Ops luggage rack, Vic HID, heel shifter, Rockford amp, Infinity speakers all around.

2011 Cross Country: Burnt and Traded
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-02-2013, 10:38 AM
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My only thoughts from one who does brakes is to just open up the bleeder nipples on the caliper and let it gravity bleed for a bit. Pour it in up top, let it drain and it should purge any air in the caliper by itself. Maybe you got some air by way of the vacuum pump- seen it happen as it can aerate the fluid. Just don't pull the lever while open or you'll suck the fluid/air back into the caliper.

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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-02-2013, 11:07 AM
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opening bleeder and let gravity bleed will not get the air out. Air always go to the highest point.

What you could have is bad O=Rings in the calipers. The o-Ring is spouse to hold piston out.
If the piston or O-Ring is wrong size it will let the piston slide back in to far. You would be best to let dealer do the checking on that.

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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-02-2013, 11:08 AM
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You can bleed breaks for ever but if the O-Ring or pistion is bad your just waisting your time

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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-02-2013, 11:22 AM
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BeoBob,
I’m not sure why you’re having the issues with dark fluid, etc. especially on a new bike… I’ve changed out fluid on a few bikes, with a few years and miles on them and they have never been that dark. Of course out here in the desert we don’t have the humidity problems like other places.

After my 12 XCT was rear-ended a few months ago they had to replace my ABS module and the kinked brake lines. I also checked my manual for bleeding procedures because I was curious (my HD manual had specific procedures for the HD Ultra system). Anyhow, I asked the Tech if they had specific procedures for bleeding the Vic’s ABS system and he just looked at me a little weird and said no. OK, so after I got the bike back I took it out and purposely activated the system several times to ensure everything was a go, so for so good, no issues.

That said, if I ever had to replace any lines, module, etc. I would simply fill up the system, do the normal bleed thing, take it out and activate the system, bleed and refill again. I would probably do this a third time just for good measure.

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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-02-2013, 11:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by visionjohnny View Post
opening bleeder and let gravity bleed will not get the air out. Air always go to the highest point.

What you could have is bad O=Rings in the calipers. The o-Ring is spouse to hold piston out.
If the piston or O-Ring is wrong size it will let the piston slide back in to far. You would be best to let dealer do the checking on that.

Which would be the bleeder....I'll just bow out gracefully from this conversation. Being a builder of custom brake kits for 20yrs I've got a pretty good idea how things work tho.

Good luck to the OP, I truly hope you get things ironed out soon so you can go ride!

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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-03-2013, 10:05 AM
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Try pumping the lever till it goes hard and then tie the lever in under pressure and leave overnight. Sometimes this helps air bubbles to rise to the top.

tom
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-03-2013, 05:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sanqhar View Post
Try pumping the lever till it goes hard and then tie the lever in under pressure and leave overnight. Sometimes this helps air bubbles to rise to the top.

tom
NO it does not.
If you put pressure on the lever it forces the air down. Turning bars to left so master cylinder is at it highest point that where the air will go.
Next time you have a bottle of pop or water turn it up side down and see where the air goes. To the top

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