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post #1 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-16-2011, 07:55 PM Thread Starter
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Default New to forum...have a few questions

Hey,
I've been looking at a CC for a while now. On the 2011 CC in white w/trunk, dealers best price so far is 21K OTD. I don't want black or blue. He does have a 2010 CC in Cherry...15,800 OTD. My questions are...first, will the trunk fit on the 2010 (I'll shoot it cherry to match the bike), and is the 2011 tranny that much better. I rode the 2011, but the 2010 is at another location quite a ways from me. Just wondering what others thoughts on this would be who have ridden or owned both.
Thanks
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post #2 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-16-2011, 08:19 PM
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You can buy the trunk in midnight cherry and it can go on a 2010 CC. For 2010's you will need to buy an uplift kit for the trunk that is not required on the 2011's. The trunk came out about the same time 2011 models were released so the CC and CR were both designed to work with the trunk with no additional parts.
Transmissions are debatable; in theory the 2011 transmission is better because of the redesign however you will find people reporting problems with it. A few people have mentioned that it pops out of gear, gives false neutrals and is clunky. The 2010 transmission whines in a couple of gears but that's the only fault I have heard about.
Your choice; you can buy a 2011 with a redesigned transmission that some people have problems with for $21k or you can save $5200 and buy a bike that is still awesome but makes a little noise. One other plus with a 2011 is that the oil change interval was increased from 2500 miles to 5000 miles because of the transmission redesign.
$5200 would pay taxes, licensing, pay for aftermarket exhaust and still leave you with a lot of cash for chrome and other goodies.

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post #3 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-16-2011, 08:23 PM
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I traded a 2010 for a 2011 just because of the tranny improvements, especially the reduced lash. Worth every penny IMHO.
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post #4 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-17-2011, 05:32 AM
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I have no problems with my transmission.

2011 Cross Country
If everything fails read the instructions
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post #5 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-17-2011, 10:11 AM
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I have no problems with my transmission either. I've had a couple of false neutrals and gear slip outs but all of those were because I didn't shift firmly enough.
The only thing I could consider off is that it's kind of tough to gear down when stopped. This happened a few times; I would pull off the highway on the exit ramp and not gear down as I was slowing -- I had to roll back and forth a few inches to get it to shift from 5th to 1st.

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2011 Crimson XR with Forged Highway Bars / Hard Bags / Passenger Backrest, Ness parts including Smooth Layback Plate Frame/Mount / Rad 3 Mirror / deep cut grips / drivers floorboards /shifter peg / brake peg / passenger pegs. Witchdoctor black rack, Lloydz filter / timing wheel / VFC III, 7Jurock windshield, Drag Specialties seat.
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post #6 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-17-2011, 10:45 AM
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I have experienced no problems with my 2010's tranny either. Was kluncky at first, but with some breaking in and preloading the shifter, shifts are now smooth and relatively quiet. Yet, I have only around 3,000 miles on her. If you aren't preloading the shifter, give it a try - you'll get smoother shifting and no need to pull the clutch lever all the way to the grip. BTW, I wear ear plugs and a 3/4 or full face helmet, so the sound is no problem.

2010 Midnight Cherry XR. 7Jurock, Lloydz AF, ATS, AFR tuned VFCIII, IAV, and T-6 and locally repacked pipes = big smiles. SOLD to a dear friend, so it's still in the family."
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post #7 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-17-2011, 12:00 PM
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Welcome to the Victory Forums.

A couple of pointers. Please take the time to read the “Sticky” threads in the “Victory Forums Rules and New Members Introductions” forum. This will help you out a LOT with the Victory Forums.

The Search feature is your friend! You will find the answers to a lot of your questions by using it.

If you are asking questions that are of a technical/mechanical/electrical/performance nature please place them in the “Victory Tech and Performance” forum. This will speed up a response. Placing them in the model specific forum can delay a response.


Now that my copy and paste welcome is done.

I don't think it is so much a tranny PROBLEM as much as it is the noise.

I haven't been on a 2011 so I can't speak of the difference but Vic supposedly went to a lot of trouble to reduce the noise and help find neutral easier.

Since most people put aftermarket pipes on I don't really think its a problem. I know since 06 there have been 2 improvements to the tranny noise. They started with the 09's with a redesigned cover then the 2011 with an improvement to the gears. I personally only have a problem finding neutral after my oil has about 1800 miles on it.

I have the NOISY tranny and with my pipes I don't hear a thing from the tranny! LOL

Personally I would go with the 2010 and use the extra money for pipes and accessories!
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post #8 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-17-2011, 07:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RICZ View Post
I have experienced no problems with my 2010's tranny either. Was kluncky at first, but with some breaking in and preloading the shifter, shifts are now smooth and relatively quiet. Yet, I have only around 3,000 miles on her. If you aren't preloading the shifter, give it a try - you'll get smoother shifting and no need to pull the clutch lever all the way to the grip. BTW, I wear ear plugs and a 3/4 or full face helmet, so the sound is no problem.
ok I will ask..........how do you pre-load a shifter?
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post #9 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-17-2011, 07:18 PM
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to me it depends on what matters to you the most. I have the 2010 and the whirling noise the primary makes is what bothers me the most. Went and looked at the 2011 bike today and put it side by side with my bike and there was no difference there. Now the bike tends to clunk when shifting gears.......for some reason that doesn't bother me at all, kinda like it........for others it drives them crazy. Also in the 2011 they made 4th and 6th gears quiter...........I ride with tunes and I can't hear the gears much anyway. Knowing what I know, I would do like diamond said and get the 2010 and save the money for some good accessories.
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post #10 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-17-2011, 09:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rking35209 View Post
ok I will ask..........how do you pre-load a shifter?
When upshifting, lift your toe against the shifter, applying enough pressure that will have it go into the next gear when you pull the clutch into the friction zone, but not so much pressure as to force an upshift without the clutch. Do the same for downshifts. This technique produces smoother, quieter shifts. The smoother you are with all the controls, the longer your bike will last and the more efficient your riding skills become. Your passenger will appreciate you being smooth too.

2010 Midnight Cherry XR. 7Jurock, Lloydz AF, ATS, AFR tuned VFCIII, IAV, and T-6 and locally repacked pipes = big smiles. SOLD to a dear friend, so it's still in the family."
2017 Spyder F3 Limited - keeps this old guy in the wind and riding with friends.
Cure that ugly stand up license plate with the cheapest and best laydown bracket. Click this:
https://www.victoryforums.com/11-ven...t-x-bikes.html
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