Shift Lever Side-to-Side Slop - Victory Forums - Victory Motorcycle Forum
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post #1 of 34 (permalink) Old 12-04-2013, 10:53 AM Thread Starter
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Default Shift Lever Side-to-Side Slop

My shift lever has a lot of side-to-side slop, probably since I got the bike (March 2012). That is, I haven't noticed any change in the two seasons (but I'm not the most sensitive guy -- ask my first wife).

When I was at a Victory demo ride a couple of months ago, I checked a bunch of the bikes, and they all had less play. I asked one of the dealer people there, and he moved it around, and pronounced it OK... but he wasn't their mechanic.

So, my question is whether anyone's done similar comparisons with their shift lever -- if you felt yours had a lot of slop -- and, if so, have you adjusted it?

I have the shop manual, and it's not a lot of help in this area. I'm talking about the pivot area that the arrow points to in the pic, and left-right movement. That knurled round thing (bolt?) on the inside seems tight -- I tried to move it with a crescent wrench wrapped around a rag -- but it also seems well protected from an Allen key (if it really is an inside-hex bolt) by the cramped quarters there.

Oh, yeah, c. 18,000 miles on the bike, maybe half of that highway riding.
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Cheers,

Bill P.

2012 XCT (SOLD) : HeliBars; Centramatics; PC-V; Lloydz air filter; 11" Madstad; Rivco LED mirrors; Doran TPMS; Stebel horn; Motolights; CustomLED trunk flasher; KewlHeel shifter; CycleOps trunk rack; BeadRider seat; Vibranator bar ends; Passenger grab handles; Powerlet outlets; Handlebar RAM mount; RicZ laydown plate; Brukus SaddlebagSecure; 14" flexible antenna; RAM cupholder on trunk; shock Schrader valve relocation.

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post #2 of 34 (permalink) Old 12-04-2013, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by wspollack View Post
My shift lever has a lot of side-to-side slop, probably since I got the bike (March 2012). That is, I haven't noticed any change in the two seasons (but I'm not the most sensitive guy -- ask my first wife).

When I was at a Victory demo ride a couple of months ago, I checked a bunch of the bikes, and they all had less play. I asked one of the dealer people there, and he moved it around, and pronounced it OK... but he wasn't their mechanic.

So, my question is whether anyone's done similar comparisons with their shift lever -- if you felt yours had a lot of slop -- and, if so, have you adjusted it?

I have the shop manual, and it's not a lot of help in this area. I'm talking about the pivot area that the arrow points to in the pic, and left-right movement. That knurled round thing (bolt?) on the inside seems tight -- I tried to move it with a crescent wrench wrapped around a rag -- but it also seems well protected from an Allen key (if it really is an inside-hex bolt) by the cramped quarters there.

Oh, yeah, c. 18,000 miles on the bike, maybe half of that highway riding.
There are plastic bushings in there and the brake. If they wear out replace them with Vic plastic bushings. I made the terrible mistake of buying some brass bushings from Witchdoctor. They DO NOT fit. I F*cked around with them on my brake lever forever and could never get it to feel right no matter how many times I sanded and lubed the damn thing. Finally, I tore it off and replaced with the original plastic bushing the allows the peddle to wobble around and brake feel is perfect once again.




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post #3 of 34 (permalink) Old 12-04-2013, 11:05 AM Thread Starter
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There are plastic bushings in there and the brake. If they wear out replace them with Vic plastic bushings. I made the terrible mistake of buying some brass bushings from Witchdoctor. They DO NOT fit. I F*cked around with them on my brake lever forever and could never get it to feel right no matter how many times I sanded and lubed the damn thing. Finally, I tore it off and replaced with the original plastic bushing the allows the peddle to wobble around and brake feel is perfect once again.
SB: thanks much for the heads-up and recommendation. Will do.

Now, for my follow-up question: do you recall how much of the bike you had to take apart to get that bolt off, slip the bushing in, and tighten things up again?

I took some of this area apart -- slid some stuff forward -- when I put my KewlHeel shifter on, but that was a while ago. Thanks.

Cheers,

Bill P.

2012 XCT (SOLD) : HeliBars; Centramatics; PC-V; Lloydz air filter; 11" Madstad; Rivco LED mirrors; Doran TPMS; Stebel horn; Motolights; CustomLED trunk flasher; KewlHeel shifter; CycleOps trunk rack; BeadRider seat; Vibranator bar ends; Passenger grab handles; Powerlet outlets; Handlebar RAM mount; RicZ laydown plate; Brukus SaddlebagSecure; 14" flexible antenna; RAM cupholder on trunk; shock Schrader valve relocation.

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post #4 of 34 (permalink) Old 12-04-2013, 01:13 PM
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SB: thanks much for the heads-up and recommendation. Will do.

Now, for my follow-up question: do you recall how much of the bike you had to take apart to get that bolt off, slip the bushing in, and tighten things up again?

I took some of this area apart -- slid some stuff forward -- when I put my KewlHeel shifter on, but that was a while ago. Thanks.
I only did the brake side because I had so much trouble with it I didn't even consider the shifter side, but it basically just required removing the floorboard, a couple nuts on the master cylinder and maybe a nut on the bolt that holds the bushing. It wasn't terribly hard or time consuming, but I'd prefer to find other ways to spend my days...




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post #5 of 34 (permalink) Old 12-04-2013, 01:19 PM Thread Starter
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I only did the brake side because I had so much trouble with it I didn't even consider the shifter side, but it basically just required removing the floorboard, a couple nuts on the master cylinder and maybe a nut on the bolt that holds the bushing. It wasn't terribly hard or time consuming, but I'd prefer to find other ways to spend my days...
Thanks again. I owe you a beverage or sumptin'.

Cheers,

Bill P.

2012 XCT (SOLD) : HeliBars; Centramatics; PC-V; Lloydz air filter; 11" Madstad; Rivco LED mirrors; Doran TPMS; Stebel horn; Motolights; CustomLED trunk flasher; KewlHeel shifter; CycleOps trunk rack; BeadRider seat; Vibranator bar ends; Passenger grab handles; Powerlet outlets; Handlebar RAM mount; RicZ laydown plate; Brukus SaddlebagSecure; 14" flexible antenna; RAM cupholder on trunk; shock Schrader valve relocation.

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post #6 of 34 (permalink) Old 12-04-2013, 01:35 PM
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SB: thanks much for the heads-up and recommendation. Will do.

Now, for my follow-up question: do you recall how much of the bike you had to take apart to get that bolt off, slip the bushing in, and tighten things up again?

I took some of this area apart -- slid some stuff forward -- when I put my KewlHeel shifter on, but that was a while ago. Thanks.
Disconnect the shift linkage and remove 2 bolts under the floorboard. If I remember right, it will then slide out of the mounting area. Remember the location it is in. I'm sure you're familiar with the for/aft adjustment on the foot controls. Mine has a lot of slop too but works just fine so I've left it alone.

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post #7 of 34 (permalink) Old 12-04-2013, 01:41 PM
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Thanks again. I owe you a beverage or sumptin'.
I don't often drink beer, but when I do, I prefer Dos Equis!




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post #8 of 34 (permalink) Old 12-04-2013, 01:48 PM
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I have the Witchdoctor bushings...they went in fine. They improved the slop about 75%, but there is still a little in the shifter side. The brake side is pretty tight.

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post #9 of 34 (permalink) Old 12-04-2013, 01:58 PM
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I have the Witchdoctor bushings...they went in fine. They improved the slop about 75%, but there is still a little in the shifter side. The brake side is pretty tight.
Well then either Vic or Witch have a lot of slop in their tolerances from part to part. I had to hone out the ID of the bushing to get it on the bolt then sand off the outside to provide sufficient clearance in its port hole. The first time I put it in it literally drug the brakes. I sanded and sanded over and over, on and off with the damn parts and I never could get the brakes to apply smoothly, though I was able to eventually get enough off that the brakes didn't drag. Still had to kick the pedal up to put it back in place.

And even having honed out the bushing's ID, I still had to beat it off with a screwdriver and penetrating oil to put the original plastic one back on.

I will say that the pedal didn't flop around with the brass bushing, but I prefer the brakes work properly.

Anyway, to add insult to injury, I found what look to be identical bushings at Lowes for about $3. I got mine for about $20 from a member here. And I think he paid more for them than that.




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post #10 of 34 (permalink) Old 12-04-2013, 03:13 PM Thread Starter
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Disconnect the shift linkage and remove 2 bolts under the floorboard. If I remember right, it will then slide out of the mounting area. Remember the location it is in. I'm sure you're familiar with the for/aft adjustment on the foot controls. Mine has a lot of slop too but works just fine so I've left it alone.
Thanks, Creek!

Cheers,

Bill P.

2012 XCT (SOLD) : HeliBars; Centramatics; PC-V; Lloydz air filter; 11" Madstad; Rivco LED mirrors; Doran TPMS; Stebel horn; Motolights; CustomLED trunk flasher; KewlHeel shifter; CycleOps trunk rack; BeadRider seat; Vibranator bar ends; Passenger grab handles; Powerlet outlets; Handlebar RAM mount; RicZ laydown plate; Brukus SaddlebagSecure; 14" flexible antenna; RAM cupholder on trunk; shock Schrader valve relocation.

Gallery: http://www.billanddot.com/victory-xct/
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